wild foamy

Nah that's what I have another Dt50MX for

im assuming you are referring to the proper kits with the ballast system? to be 100% legal these must be used in conjunction with a projector beam leans (which the stock SR lens isnt). Most MOT people dont seem to worry about them too much though,

It's still MOTd though apparently

The actual fuck is going on now?... O.o

It was running, then it just stopped one day and the PO was not technically minded at all, he took the side cases off and then lost interest, traded it in for a different bike at west mids motorcycles and they then sold it on to me will give it a quick once-over for compression, fuel and spark. if it needs more than a set of rings or a coil i will probably break it for parts.

Would love to have my own bike shop tbf Apparently all the panels are included in the sale (picking it up tonight), I'm sure with a bit of troubleshooting I can get to the root of the problem

It seemed like a good idea at the time. Non runner, if I can get it to run using the parts I have laying around I will put an MOT on it and flog it, otherwise. I'm gonna break it.

Ah right, been preoccupied with clearing out my backlog of DTs, cars, trailers and the fireblade, also project mong and FUCR. But anyway, it's still going ahead, will ping some details across when I'm back from work

You know what they say, you're only as old as the women you feel...

There was a Triumph on TV that ran on fermented/distilled apples not too long ago, iirc it was putting out more power than the petrol-fueled bike but due to th eamount of distilling it used a stupendous amount of apples to even make a tankfull

with the bike at a medium revs check the voltage across the battery, should aim for about 13.7-14 (or whatever your manual states), anything over that would indicate to me a dodgey regulator which not only leads to shorter lamp life but also a cooked battery (although if it is overcharging it tends to boil the battery dry of water)

You should disconnect the negative (usually black) wire first, it will not fry you as there is no potential voltage (electricity needs a potential of voltage to flow), once this is disconnected you can remove the positive wire safely, it will not shock you because by disconnecting the negative you have created an open circuit so no electricity can flow. If you were to try and disconnect the positive first and happened to touch the spanner on a metal part of the bike whilst it is also on the positive terminal then you will get a splash and a funky new hairstyle. hope this helps

Pfft, what i need is a woman who likes bikes and is just insane enough to put up with me without being a headcase. the last one was overly obsessive anyway, i am a peacock and you must let me fly.

Have you worn out the latest mrs Foamy already ? She was a bit of a headcase tbh :/ Plus she always wanting me to take her out for dinner, to the cinema, shopping (yawn), go bowling, watch a DVD with some popcorn and the like, im an outgoing person at the worst of times but it was f*cking expensive, and she was unemployed so it was always muggins 'ere shelling out for it ... but as soon as i wanted to go and work on the bikes it was "Oh you never have time for me its always me putting in the effort blah blah blah blah". so yeah, she had to go.

My DT used to average one ever 6 months mainly due to vibration. Check the acutal earth on the bulb holder itself and not just the bullet connections, when i got project mong it had a functional headlight bulb but it would fail to illuminate when put back in its holder, i ran a resistance test between the mating surface on the inside of the holder (where the bulb actually touches the metal) and the end of the bullet connector and found 50 M-ohms (mega ohms!) of resistance, no wonder the little 12v 'lectrics couldnt even light it, ended up drilling a hole into the plastic of the holder and re-soldering a new earth directly onto the holder itself, worked a treat afterwards You say your battery level is fine, i assume you have check its charging rate?

Will try and draw up a diagram of what i mean, but basically like you say about removing the lamp holders first, the underside of the tailpiece is all open so i will have access to the tail lamps, and when installed these will squash the lenses inbetween the lampholders and the fibreglass , so if the lenses do break its a 30 second job to change them also, i took the carbs off to have a closer look... google didnt prove to be much help so with a lot of guess work i eventually found that the floats were dropping too low, which in turn caused the needles to drop too low and jam against the adjustable plate attached to the floats, i also noticed that the floats were catching on the side of the bowls when i removed them, after a closer look i found that the floats are contoured to fit the float bowl.... and they appeared to be in upside down. could this be why the bike was left to rot in a barn for so many years?. anyway, i turned the floats around, set the height (again, mostly guesswork but just below the overflow), tested them and they no longer leak!, i even got the engine to fire on the #2 cylinder! (should probably check for spark on the #1 as it didnt seem to be doing much), very happy with how things are going right now

there are no specific mounting points for the lamps as such though, they are just tapered with a lip on the rim of the glass, on the minis/landrovers they originally fitted into a rubber boot mounted externally with a chrome rim to retain them, but with this tail unit i want it to look as sleek and concealed as possible but still have access to the lamps and lenses for ease of maintanence

There isnt much else for us lonely single people to do. -.-

Be sure to post an introduction in the newbies section bud, more likely to get responses once we know a bit about you I'm an engines and airframes bloke myself, electrics are black magic as far as I'm concerned.

Yamaha XJ... Bulletproof bikes tbh, predivs are faster and can be had for about £500 Near enough everything on those bikes you can do yourself, parts are cheap, good on fuel and comfortable to ride

Some nice birds in that vid though...

fucks sake... will save DirtyDT the job... moved to the videos section as it clearly has fuck all to do with Yamaha classics!

i take it that self-fabrication is out of the question?

Tailpiece pics [url=http://s57.photobucket.com/user/wild_foamy/media/DSC_0007_zps1861d500.jpg.html][/url Still have some flash around the base which i need to trim back, but f*cking hell this stuff is hard when it has set!, have ordered a dremel to do the final trimming with, should have the lenses in for fitment by next week, still not 100% sure how i am going to retain them, was going to go for a individual bayonet types on the indicators, and a single plate which holds both the brake/stop lamps which when mounted up against the back of the unit holds the lenses in place. currently working my way through another budweiser crate so that i can make some forms for my custom mudguard/battery box/electrical gubbins holder

Not sure how vac lines would have petrol in them though, without an exploded diagram i am completely lost on this one...