Ttaskmaster

Or perhaps a high price due to scarce stock, suggesting that they're not in high demand because they *don't* go wrong often enough to justify keeping them stocked...? Compare this to several places I know of that have XVS650 RegRecs available - I've known a number of those go, either blowing and/or the bracket snapping off just above the single bolt that holds the whole heavy assembly right where it can bounce all its weight around...

Owner's Manual? Nowhere. It'll be part of a major period service, which they expect a certified Yamaha mechanic with specific tools and the workshop manual to undertake, rather than the average owner. Same for the suspension linkages on an FJR. We can still do it, of course and I fully support people doing that, but it's one of those that 'officially' you're not expected to do yourself. I'm just drawing a distinction between an actual fault (such as the crap RegRec design and placement) and something that only goes wrong if you don't follow the prescribed service intervals. By all means pin the topic, but let's not have it as a fault of the bike - Same as the one I found about people not cleaning behind the rubber curtain and developing dangerous rust/structural failure on the monoshock pivots.

With respect, I wouldn't consider this to be a common *fault*... unless you're talking about the owner. It's a necessary part of routine check-maintenance and servicing, as much as changing the oil or final drive lube. While parts do simply wear out, failure to adhere to this often results in defects sooner than expected.

£70???!!! My local guy made one there and then for £25, including fitting and bleeding... Why doesn't he? The rubber brake hoses on Dragstars DO perish, especially the 650s. When they perish, pulling the brake lever will result in that pressure bulging the hose outward instead of down into the caliper. Braided hoses not only protect the rubber from degredation, but also prevent normal expansion and so direct more of the pressure into the caliper, resulting in better braking. Take it from the many Dragstar riders (past and present) on here - Whatever bike you have, braided hoses will help. It may not be THAT much in the grand scheme of things, but if it stops you a foot shorter that could still be the difference between a near miss and an off. As for your location - Might have to do that part through a computer... assuming you press Save Changes before leaving your profile edit page? In the meantime - Where abouts are you?

Also - Fill out your profile. Knowing things like which town you live in can often lead to other members finding useful local stuff for you... like mechanics who work for beer!!

I'd recommend getting one fitted, certainly. I'd also suggest getting the existing parts checked first, since a braided line won't matter a jot if your caliper is ailing, for example.

A lot of it is down to you and the changes in mood, weather, how much sleep you've had, how hungry you are, and so on. The bike remains the same, but your riding alters. However, messing with parts, especially those affecting something as fundamental as the forks, will have a notable effect!

Always do the cheapest stuff first. 1/. Check brake pads for wear/damage. 2/. Check brake disc for the same. 3/. Check brake reservoir for damage and lube up brake lever. 4/. Strip brake caliper, clean and rebuild, replace brake fluid with fresh stuff and bleed thoroughly, before checking for correct operation. 5/. Replace rubber brake line hose with a braided one.

Advert has several photos, including one of the underside. Corbin's own webby doesn't mention different seats for different FJs and there's nothing I could find about it on the FJOC.

If it is a light of any kind, there are very specific rules covering colour, location and permitted users. You'd have to make it a colour that is permitted - Blue is a big no-no, whether you display it front, back or side, especially if it's flashing blue. You could conceivably make it a steady orange - Some US bikes have both indicators permanently on, only flashing when you hit the turn switch, and there's no problem with using those over here.

Could try some of those plastic slip-on paper binders...

Can't see photos here at work and it's been ages since I looked at a 125 up close... but might that be one of the carb adjustment or balancing screws?

I will ask around my local mechanic, see if he has anything...

Have a look and see what you think: http://www.ukemergency.co.uk/blue-light-use/ I'm gonna go with a big, resounding, Gene Hunty voice saying, "No you may not, ya flippin' Power-Rangin' fairy. Now on yer bike an' on yer way...'fore I come round yer 'ouse an' stomp on all yer tools!"

I found whacking on a set of Grip Puppies worked far better. The diameter increase meant I wasn't having to hold the typical thin bike grips so tightly and the sponginess of the Puppies dampened the vibes a lot. They're about £14 for a set, usually. Dunno how that compares to bar end weights...

I'm used to that from the wife!

Try and take it gently. It's apparently very easy to accidentally go far too fast on them things...!!

You should easily be able to make 120 miles before reserve, even if you ride like a loon at town speeds.

Don't have a problem with it, myself. I do slouch into it a bit, but I don't really crouch over the tank so much. Then again, years of riding a Dragstar above 100mph where you're as much of a wind trap as a kite has probably strengthened everything.

World of difference, IMO... Same for comparing the ride on my massively powerful but easily controllable FJ1200, to riding a tuned-up 600 Hornet hoolie-bike that won't even move away unless you're revving halfway round the dial... Every bike is different and some are more different than others. Here's a sort-of general impression on Cruisers, that might be of help: Cruisers still put out a LOT of grunt, albeit down the lower end, and you can go from standstill to FUCKING HELL quite easily, even on a 650cc one - Believe me. You can also tear up the roads and ride like a loony, if you so choose. In my opinion, the 950 will be plenty to step up to and a whole world of fun!

Fault 19 indicates the sidestand switch is at fault, which covers everything from the switch itself, all the way up the wires to the ECU. Maplins usually have multimeters starting around £6.99.

I keep hearing about (and so considering) Monster horns and Snail horns... basically most 12v ones, which are so powerful they need the engine running to sound.

Oh come off it, Dirty - You're a forum moderator!! I *know* you can move posts and sometimes even entire threads. How is a building any different??!!

So you posted this very question on the 16th April (a whole 7 days ago) right here: You already got quite a comprehensive answer and FOR FREE, I should point out, since a garage will charge you anything up to £50 and possibly more just for reading the fault code! So having gotten the help you needed and more, despite not even bothering to show a bit of common courtesy by posting an Intro in the relevant setion, you then decide to re-ask the same question... and you want to talk about who is an idiot??!! The flashes are a Fault 19 code, which is the sidestand switch. Clean it, lube it, replace it, bypass it or whatever you want. When you're done doing that, grow up and learn some manners...

OMG, only 30? You're an 'ickle baby biker.... I never realised!