Cynic

You can never escape, never they will never let you out, you will be trapped, tortured forced to speak in the tounge of Yamaha forever ha ha ha ha haaaaaaaaa. Cough, ahem Welcome to the forum, really normal we are, honest Still there, good.

You know merv thats probably not as daft as it sounds as it would be free of the heavy crap that forms scale like limestone and stuff.

There are very few fuses on the DT's but yes there should be a main battery fuse, they are generally part of the battery lead/connection. Its just that is the first place i would look, you have lost ALL of the battery fed items. I would bet the horn doesent work either. The only easy connection between all of these is the battery and its associated connections. Failing that you will be looking inside the headlight with a multimeter.

Main fuse at the battery? When you say tail light are you including the brake light as well.

That is so daft its brilliant.

Ok sit back with a beer and watch the slaughter......... Congratulations Goff you trained him fast.

Hi there dont confuse the lights and charging system with the spark. The ig system is COMPLETELY separate generating its own electricity from the mag/stator assy. You have a black wire coming from the mag, this should be from the points/condenser leading to the coil. You have checked the coil so thats ok, and i'm assuming fitted a proven plug and cap? Now do a continuity test from the coil to the points, you will need to dissconnect the condenser for this as it can give some screwy readings. If that is good to the points then double check them, making sure any small isulators and such are in place. Finally a check on the primary coil which should be around 300 ohms. I have said this before but a good cheat i have used in this type of problem. Take a fully charged auto battery and connect the - to the engine at a good ground point, now disconnect the points and touch the battery + to the wire to the coil. If all is good then the bike should generate a spark. Make sure you have a fuse in line just in case. Finally these bikes do seem to be quite sensitive to the points setting requiring you to be really accurate with the setting. If all the above checks out then you may need a dial gague to really 'dial it in' sorry couldn't help that.

Being really boring here but the bluff fronted area of the box coupled with the total lack of airfloww under the box will give you the frontal drag of a small truck and anhialate your fuel efficientcy. The air will be all messed up and wont flow over the back of the car properly and stop those aerodynamics from working as well. They bored us to death at work about bloody aerodynamics and drag to get us to save diesel driving the trucks around and believe me you want the sharp end foreward. Probably cost you at least 10per cent having it that way round.

Me thinks foamy has got you all in a lather as his DT50MX is Aircooled, the DT50LC may need such a device.

Knowing how lazy yamaha can be at times and the fact that you could actually get a 350 ypvs barrel on an early aircooled engine, it wont work but it will fit the studs so i'm told. You will probably find that apart from the shape of the head fins and possibly the internal combustion chamber shape any 175 head will drop on. Possibly right up to 81/2. If you look at the manuals these engines are more evoloution than re invention so a lot of stuff didnt change bar ig systems and cosmetics.

If you are running the needle in its lowest setting and it still seems rich then much as you may protest its the wrong jet. At the moment you have a main jet that is restricted by the needle, reduce the size of the main jet and lift the needle and you will have the same amount of fuel at full throttle and less in the midrange.

Anybody want to guess how long it takes to become the Suzuki G String.

Hi all, i'm getting rid of the suzuki and looking at possibly a TDR to replace it. I'm going to have a look on the forum but i'm guessing a lot of the members are probably on here too. So good/bad. From my point of view i want a practical classic that i can leave std, wash, polish and harp on about how i dreamed about them when they were first out. I don't want a project just a tidy quick bike i can keep in real good nick and use. Personally i would prefer to pay extra for a proper minter.

Wouldn't it be more fun to swap ends.........

No the air in your fuel line may be coming up from the float chamber becaust the carb vent is blocked. There is/was/should be a rubber pipe that runs down to somewhere abouts the back of the footpegs with the overflows. This should allow air out of the float chamber, if its blocked the fuel will not flow properly. I take it that the bike is not running as it should?

Don't know what your on about i would happily ride the three bikes there, the super scoot, nah too 3008.

So why not drop the needle a notch and see what happens.

Off the top of my head i'd look at the carb vent/breather. The air in the float chamber can't get out so fuel can't get in.

Right got the facts now. Couple of motorcycles had a coming together somehow and ended up on the outside of the bend, ambulances, police etc. Mate of mine came past it coming home from a night out early sat morning(walk of shame drank the taxi fare). The liquid was the life blood of one of the bikes leaking out. So i actually rode through the accident detrius on the way OUT to dirty's without issue, and i had seen the signs on the way out but nothing obvious was there. The dryup on closer inspection is actually catlitter that someone unknown has spread in a wellmeaning gesture on the road as the tarmac looks like it has been eaten by the fluids (petrol probably). So it looks like a bike accident nearly caused a bike accident, you gotta love irony. And if ONE more person tells me most accidents happen within 2miles of home i'll............

Thats a good point, but they were the metal signs not the floppy things the plod use. Either way apparently the slippy sign covers all sins, i am required to take appropriate action. Technically i was culpable for putting myself in harms way???.

Well, hmmm let me see. Maybe need a retest sometime......

Breif update, apparently according to the folk next door its deisel, minor shunt earlier dumped it on the road and cars were tracking it around.

Coming back from dropping some bits up to dirty DT coming round the last bend after a 'spirited trip' home i spy a temporary slippy road sign, odd methinks, go a little easier down to about 40, its a 60 limit decreacing radius bend. Halfway round there is a two foot thick stripe of dry up right across the bloody road about an inch deep. Some dry some as far as i can see wet. No way round it i was thinking about what to aim at for best results from the impending lowside, i went for a dry bit as far as it goes and God knows how but the front slipped and held. I can only think its down to the fact that it had done 60 odd fast miles in the heat hence supersticky and i ran through on a trailing throttle. The back wasnt so happy and started to come round a little and then snapped in prob for the same reasons as the front glad i was out of the throttle.. Trouble is it pulled the muscles in my shoulder as she wasn't subtle when it came to the snapping in bit, sort of tiny highside is the best description. Hence the Ow. Could have been a lot worse really. Its legal apparently too, due to the signs being there.

Again this applies to my old powervalve...... P148 section 9 Testing the servo motor Motor operation, Connect a jumper lead between the neg battery terminal and the black red pin in the motor connector block, a second jumper lead between the pos terminal and the black and yellow pin in the connector. That should opperate the motor. If you reverse the connections then the motor will reverse. The potentiometer is tested looking for a figure of 7500ohms +-30% at 20 deg C Connect the meter between : blue/yellow and white/black blue/yellow and white/red white/red and white/black You can only check the cdi by substitution. I believe there is a test for the control unit but swaping in a good unit is prob the most reliable check.

Water pump shaft seal...........as in it doesent anymore. When that fails it allows water along the shaft into the gearbox. There isn't another way for water to get into the gearbox as far as i know.