Cynic

I like the way you can grab a bargain on this no reserve auction with a starting price of 2grand.

This time round CIA actually beat the online quote from the comparators Under 130quid FC for both bikes, can't complain at that. Although living in the sticks with them both being garaged classics may help.

If you mean the top bolt that holds the springs in yep oil will happily come out of there. Odd there is no drain but they are hardly race spec. If you have the springs out just turn them upside down and pump the oil out into a bucket of some sort. If the oil is really yukky or has evidence of water in it you might want to strip them right out and clean them out properly. While your doing that you could have at the seals too.

No i missed it, was watching the banger racing, no er sorry the BTCC on the other side....

hope you never park it next to mine...... Hate to put it to shame..... not The finish on your c/s is better than alot of mine.

Don't forget the black and white to the kill switch (engine stop switch on the throttle grip) You can't get rid of that switch anyway as its part of the throttle grip so use it to turn it off. A lot more important than you may think, untill you have had a motorcycle resting on you revving its bollocks off)

Maybe 'delete' would be a better choice. Certainly 'edit' has to in there.

Yes you can. Junk everything save for the seven, or six depending on year wires running from the mag to the cdi, not forgetting of course the orange running to the coil. You will need some sort of eath switch in the black and white wire out of the cdi too or you won't switch it off. For what its worth i think its a stupid idea. The electrical components on the DT are very solid. Mine has done no end of off road work and apart from bulbs still has all its bits, well the indicators excepted but their crap anyway. Just leave it as is and use it. Don't mutilate it waste of time.

Beat me too it, .

Let us know soon as if it fixes it, posts like this can really help others. Hope it sorts it for you.

I have told this story several times now. Tuning shop in Towcester near me called TTS (used by many national magazines and people like Jack Frost etc)I expected pods of some sort when i had quite an aggressive tune done, they will fit pods for 2 reasons only. Tuning for the drag strip, or a direct customer request. Unless your running all or mostly WOT they do not have enough benefits over a good filter in a regular airbox to be worthwhile. Of course, asthetics is entirely different

Then i'm inclined to check the pulse coil, and electronic ig can missfire with the best of them. Can't tell you what the figures should be or where it is, like i said i may be wrong but its where i'd start from your answers.

What condition is the spark? A big blue jobbie you can hear clicking, you say she wont rev? any pops bangs smoke etc while she's protesting or just no rpm rise? I don't normally shoot for the ig system but....... My gut is saying weak ig coil or maybe a coil braking down. I could well be a mile out but those answers are not saying crank seals to me, not particularily shouting fuel either. One last thing, what happens when your riding along if you try and tease the revs up, using tiny bits of throttle following the revs as they ride, rather than the standard 50 technique of wide open

Its not the leading link that will be an issue, i would expect the LC forks to be around 4-6 inches longer than the MX forks to get the extra travel. Don't know for certain but i would certainly check before buying any as that is a lot of extra height to cope with on the front.......

And the last time you decoked the pipe? The last plug change Did you re-jet for the big bore What condition is the air filter Have you had to top up the gearbox How much oil is in the gearbox Does it start ok If it starts ok do you need choke, only on cold days or all the time even when the motors hot Just a few questions before you get carried away with ideas of crank seals. They are not nearly as unreliable as people seem to believe.

You get the same effect as the pressure wave that returns in the expansion chamber and keeps the charge in the cylinder, same thing happens in the filter, trouble is the metal top causes the wave to comeback at the wrong time and restrict the incoming air. If you must have pods you want to try and get full foam jobbies.

Cos when you lob the bike off road the indicators get bust, when you get on with MX boots guess what, yep the indicators get bust. When your on the trail and the mud and stones are flying, yep the bloody things get bust. Add to that they rust out and the indicators sieze into them too, so they get cut off. Addmitedly my brackets got the cruelest cut thanks to a smarmy MOT man long after the indicators were consigned to the bin, "if the provision is there they should be fitted and work, thats failed". Hour later i was back minus the provision He didn't like it but he had to pass it.

Try Fowlers, best to go for genuine with things like this. Its only a couple of o rings. Take longer to clean all the carbon out than actually doing the spannering. Nothing complex.

Depends if their Cummins to the church.

How Scania use something so sad to get a cheap laugh.

OOOps, i meant the 250 . CB don't hang about, though i can't see it doing a ton . Don't limit it to just those though, any of the late 70's early eighties bikes would be perfect.

LMFAO

What about a classic, a RD350b or a CB175 (twin carb). neither need restricting and both will pop the ton, they have a classic style too if you look properly for a good one. Around 1500 quid should get something nice and honest. My old man has a 750 intruder he's looking to shift sometime soon due to back and hip issues, he's keeping his CB175 though. Food for thought?

I could not believe it when i saw this........ Here.

Turf her out and get her to ride it. Do the bike the world of good. Get everything nice and hot, settle the valves, the works. It will run better for weeks afterwards. And you can travel faster, you wont have a tyre looking like something from a 1950's racer either. Plus i would far sooner do 130 miles on a bike than in a car, boooorrrrriiiinnnnggg.