Cynic

I likes this one the best........ Dear White People, Don't you just hate immigrants? Sincerely, Native Americans SOOOOOOOOOOO much in so few words

Well bit late but wanted to check how it would hold up, i'm pleased to report that things are looking pretty good. Well perfect really. Tank care products sell something called sureseal, it all comes in a kit. Some of which you may be able to work around. But to find this out you will have already bought a kit. QED. Bit of a faf to use as you have to go through several stages with cleaning (the instructions could be better), rust treatment and actually adding the resin which needs you to keep the tank hot, so it feels hot but doesent burn your hand, if you know what i mean. End result is worth the effort, makes the tank sound like its plastic when you tap the sides. It also prevents further rusting, all up i'm very happy. Tank is unmarked where it matters and i'm not leaking fuel any more. Added to that any replacement tank i could have found would be no better and would still need work. Reccomended

Leaving the bike long enough for the points to be in too poor a condition to fire will mean carb problems anyway with the gunk left as the fuel evaporates. I should have read the intro in the noobs section properly that said you leave the bike for years at a time, ah you didn't write one.

Yes the oil system should be blanked off securely to stop the motor drawing air. As far as the jetting goes its generally accepted to go up 5-10 points on the main to compensate for the oil that is reducing the amount of fuel going into the motor thereby weakening the fuel mix.

Mate of mine had a 650 breifly and described it as a whacker plate with wheels, after trying it myself i'd have to agree.

Built computer control panels for automated forklifts once upon a time. Photobucket is the one i use. There is a FAQ in the new members forum about uploading pictures.

Blown out on the clutch basket paul, one has a good 5-6mm of slop just with my hand pressure let alone a vice. The other, from an engine with blatantly far less (ab)use was looking good backlash wise but it looks like the engine has dropped onto the basket at some time as one of the 'posts' if you like, that hold the friction plates is mangled. Better news, the clutch opperating arm from that motor looks to be in real good nick barely any wear at all. According to the engine number (2k4-0122##) its a 79 like yours too. Remind me of your adress and i'll get it in the post.

No problemo...... You will know just after i do

I have a motor under my bench paul, i was going to look at it in the morning for the clutch opperating arm, your welcome to the primary drive/basket if you want it. What can the differences be, surely as long as you swap basket and primary drive as a set there wont be any issues?

No problem Click here......

Uh Oh, there are a couple of sub looms as you have found like the tail light wiring, the generator/stator set may also be missing from the basic loom as there are 2 different options depending on your cdi and generator. There may/will also be various links and connectors missing too. The battery connections to name just 2. The airbox..... as well as different battery locations/battery position and oil tank design,there are 2 different types. The DTmx started in 78/9 and possibly 80 for the septics with the oil tank on the left with a real funky airbox design. That was junked for a much free'er breathing version in 1980 with the oil tank swapping sides different CDI and a completely different carb setting that may sieze the later model if you get it the wrong way about. I built my own loom, if you can put pictures up of any problems it will be much easier to help.

I'd love to know how this shit works....... I didn't think i was wasting my time

Its off a 1990 something DTR, and will i believe bolt straight on, Vez would know for certain. Needs a tidy up. 20quid and the postage and its yours. Master cyl, hose(scabby but works fine) and the caliper. I'm sick of moving it.

Paul, is that not the most uninformed guesswork you have ever heard, it has 4 stroke written all over it, and coaxing them back from the dead is very different. He is a self confessed novice, big up to him for that, he is taking on a 'very' possible moneypit, so fair play. Half baked info like that will wipe out his cash faster than a celebrity drug habit. He needs to consider every penny. My first bike started out in much the same disasterous state. With time patience and solid infomation it can be made into a goer. Most of us have assorted tat in our garages that may help, old tyres, an exhaust that needs welding etc. If he's going to get this bike as legal transport then cheap second hand stuff is all he can afford. Cardboard cereal box gaskets and hylomar etc. I made a set of Mk1 cortina rings fit an old (shed) mk2 escort i had as they were going begging and mine were had it. That is the kind of stuff he is going to be looking at. Crappy advice is the last thing he needs. Be usefull to know where he is though eh.

Personally i squeese then open the nipple, each to there own. How many times do i need to say i have a complete working system under my bench.

+1 No mudguards, no lights, no exhaust and mx knoblies. You wont fab an exhaust thats an art that needs experience to learn. Modifying one is ok but from scratch . Best of luck to you. The most important piece of advice i can give. Don't listen to gobshite like fill the motor with 2 stroke oil and then turn it upside down. If you believe stuff like that i can sell you a bucket of optimism for 60quid, i'll post it tommorow. Honest......

If you get desparate i have a complete working brake system, it aint mint but it works fine. Certainly well enough for you to swap the guts out. At a price Thing is i can't see it being the master cyl, not unless you have done megga milage or really screwed up taking it apart. I still think your bleeding it wrong. Just think for a moment how much fluid that master cyl actually displaces, 15 maybe 20ml tops, an air bubble a quarter of that volume will render the brake useless. Have the pistons in the caliper moved yet, are they in contact with the disc? It will all have an effect.

Suppose its an improvement on my old brake fluid bottle

What a load of tripe, back bleed it. I used to work (still do in a way) with heavy plant and the engineers always backbleed and rarely have problems. A squeesable bottle is needed, i use an old brake fluid bottle with an old nipple fitted in the bottom. Fit hose to said nipple then other end to the caliper, Fill bottle with fluid allowing it to drain into the caliper, fit top, With a decent bit of hose you can tie it up well above the caliper, Keep checking the master cyl as you squeese the bottle, removing excess as required, if you run out of squeese just remove the top and reduce finger pressure. No air will get in to the brake system while you do this then with the top on your ready for another squeese, Once there are no bubbles in the resivoir your done, you should get a single system done in one GENTLE squeese, If its a multiple system bleed from one caliper to the other then from each to the master cyl. That method needs only one person although no harm in an extra pair of hands, needs minimal amounts of fluid and WORKS. No messing with opening and closing squeese no squeese etc,open and close the nipple just once. I even used it on those hard to bleed nissin 6 pots with excelent results.

175e, thats the same as Oldgitonabike's, on a bracket on the airbox i believe. The later F's (like mine)had it mounted direct to the frame above the rear brake light switch.

Ohhh, rubber. Watch them in the rain, i've tried sporty avons twice and they work great in the dry but i never had confidence in the wet. They didn't last long either, sides wore out before the centre? Could have been me though. I would have gone for the pilot road 2 myself.

Mervin, i'm coming for you , you peaked too soon.

I can only give you my own personal experience of this stuff. Fkin garbage. Its all gimmiky coblers, i have an old scottoiler bottle with a nipple fitted in the bottom. Put brake fluid in bottle, seal and after fitting hose to std brake nipple on caliper, squeese. Back bleed all the way to the master cyl. Works a treat. Keep the scottoiler bottle above the nipple its connected to and there is no chance of air so long as you squeese slightly and can be done easily solo. On twin set up go from one caliper to the other, then from each caliper to the master cyl. Never failed me yet, even on those horrible to bleed kawasaki/suzuki (nissin i think) 6 pots.

Whats being a woman got to do with it. Your fair game for pi55 take same as everybody else Oh welcome.....

Hah been done many times first time i saw one of those was 25years ago at the British 500GP at Silverstone, Haslam Snr was on the podium. I got to shake his hand in the track invasion