Cynic

Here you go Paul. If you really look you can find little bits that may have been done better but for the money its being picky, esp as she is a daily driver but then on a boring show bike you would spend the extra. Seeing how getting this done by Hagon would see no change from 500+ and similar from central wheel (cost me 230ish) i'm a happy bunny. Esp the shade of gold its perfect.

Fair enough i'm not going to argue with the manual, what does it quote out of interest.

Do you not think its hypocrytical, Harley Davidson admitting in their own brochure that the OE headlight is rubbish compared to this fantastic one, then want you to pay through the nose for something i feel they should fit on the bloody bike. Cheeky b'stewards. As to the light its too bright, that lamp will be incredibly bright for oncoming traffic. Cars will all think your on main beam and blind you with theirs. I would, there is an apprila that comes at me on the way to work, he didn't bother to dip his addmitadly bright headlights and got 450watts of H4 for his troubles. Hasn't done it to me since.

Did you not just test it? hey ho, yep them early ones really do fly when de restricted, you have upped the main jet when you fitted the pv?, it really needs a 240 in there or your 7000 mile motor won't last long. Its the performance of these motors that makes me think the newer pv equipped bikes were neuterd somehow. I have very good memories of having the loan of an RDZ125 for a week and that just had the garage tune (both washers done, 240 main and the valve flipped) i just didn't tire of the bang at 7500rpm, buuuuuuurrrrrrrrrrrr '7500rpm' poweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrrr

So was my response not good enough yesterday then...... YOUR other thread on the same problem

Why, electric motors generate torque figures that make even powerfull piston engines cry. Plus properly balanced they can go to any rpm you like, again piston motor is peaky and maxed at 14000ish. Why lumber it with a gearbox to rob power and add weight. The piston engine much as i love it is a dinosaur of the steam age, we just got better 'steam' to put in it thats all, it is hideously inefficient losing 70 odd percent of its energy in heat. If we had spent the last 100 years developing batteries we would have been free of petrol years ago, its just there may be one or two multi billion pound companies that keep that kind of thinking off limits.

I watched some of that on the IOM stuff on ITV4, VERY weird seeing a bike fly down the hill at the start without making any noise. They didn't hang around neither.

Cor how far back did you go to find this thread its donkeys years old. Apart from Alex all those members will be long gone. Start your own thread with a proper intro, you will get a much better response.

Starting 2 strokes especially older ones is an art in many cases, they will all have a 'way' you just need to find it. The old Yam is more forgiving than most. See if this helps..... Turn on ig, idiot lights on ( oil/neutral and the wirr wirr noise of the power valve) making sure kill switch is in the run position. Be sure fuel is on then pause for a moment to be sure the carbs are full, if you are having trouble starting go safe with the res(erve) option to be sure you have fuel. Turn the engine over, not a proper kick just use your foot on the kicker to prime everything with a couple of slow 'prods' You should have felt some resistance at some point on the stroke of the kick start during the 'prods', stop at that point once you have it , that will be one of the pistons nearly at the top of its stroke and after the priming strokes should be ready to fire. Let the kickstart return to the top, turn the choke on now. If you had done it earlier with the slow kicks there is a chance of wetting the plugs. Deep breath cross your fingers and opperate the kickstart as fast as you can, note i said FAST, not hard its not a 600 single. Hard will just damage the kickstart stop. Da Daaaaaaaaaaa, well thats the plan anyway. Once its running cut the choke as soon as you can, they don't like it cap'n unless you like swapping plugs. If the engine is in good nick and running well you should be able to start it with your hand. I can with my TDR250. Hope this helps. If it doesent you may need to whip the plugs out and TBH put in new ones. They aren't expensive and 2 strokes destroy them anyway especially if the bike isn't in full time use. You should keep a couple with you as one going down will stop both cyl running so it is easiest to just swap out both plugs to be sure. Oh yes one last thing, there is 20 years and 20+hp between you and the 400. When she hits 6000rpm be ready to grin (and hang on)

In general master cylinders are just that, they have no part in the switchgear except the brake light switch but that can be worked round. You could easily use the master cyl from just about anything. It is a pump at the end of the day, as long as the piston size is suitable for the application and a small 2 stroke means just about anything goes you can fit pretty much what you like. I'm not talking just yam either, any manufacturers master cyl will work. All the banjo fittings are the same, well till you get to the really modern stuff with electronics for ABS and other such rubbish.

Done too, my 'future' historic vehicle

Me either they can be very negative. Take children in need, the wife worked in the call centre for nowt, both kids had done 'fund raising projects' at school. Sponsor'd 3 different runners in the marathon, one was for marie curie but i digress. Then i tell some jerk with a rattle can i'm skint and i get a high and mighty lecture about 'tightwads like me mean people are dieing' said in front of the kids, if i had not had said wife and kids with me at the time i would have burried his teeth in the back of his head. I give what i can afford to charieties and right about now i'm skint so every last one of em can f off. Appologies..... Sore subject.....

You ARE supporting our troops. I wonder if someone is trying to score both sides of the coin with the 'ambiguous' band. At least if it were Khaki it would help but orange??

Bokkocks didn't catch this soon enough, that gucci black coating will come off as you wind em in then act like locktite with the heat. If you are replacing exhaust bolts the only, only, option is stainless with spring washers underneath so they stay put. They are the only things that won't sieze in either through shite in the threads or 'growing' together with the steel. The exhaust on a 2stroke comes off far more often than most of us would really like so worries about the exhaust studs is a no no.

Cheers lads i'll give it a go when i get in from work. Really got to be carefull here. Can't remove any eatra metal or the disk may not run true, same goes for leaving any powder coat on. Its in full view so i nead to be neat. If it takes a week with a razor blade so be it.

Hi all got my wheels, thing is there is there is powder coat on the disc mount. Anybody got any tips on removing the powder coat from the face. Or is it just a case of persevere with a razor blade?

Ignition coil, or maybe pulse coil. Maybe a connection at the cdi or mag but i'd be looking at the coil, the primary circuit earth especially.

Boiling water, huh, thats not hot. Get a heat gun on it that will get it hot then it will come out. Not failed yet on my DT. Keep going till the WD smokes just heating the tube not the cap then its hot enough

God speed to you for you truly are entering the fires of hell. 2 stroke port timing and exhaust duration are absoloutly critical to the engine even running. Why not post as a journal so others can see just how complicated it really is. Good luck.

Cost you points on your licence too, i got caught years ago parking on the path. Plod asked me if i wanted 2 points for the plates or 3 for the path. I took 2 (and the fine). Bastad then made sure i pushed it to the car park and waited for me to go into the garage and buy some plates. I had the plates stashed under the seat cos i was taking my mate into town, couldn't really get em out after claiming the wind had blown them off.

Right , its not complicated but..... You have to run the engine to get the oil nice and fluid and hot. Your engine doesent have a sump in the true sense. The oil is kept in the frame and there may well be a proper filler on there somewhere too. Under the tank or seat like as not. After running for 10 mins the oil will be even in temp and viscosity so the level in the engine will be 'normal'. Before then it may puddle giving a duf impression that the engine is overfull. I had the same concerns with my TDR thats a bit weird when it comes to oil changes as the gearbox oil is pumped through all the gearbox stressed components and bearings and that has to be checked warm.

He knows that, keep up, thats why he's flushing the system...

3 weeks, although that is including the 'men in brown' getting them there. That is stripping the wheel, he needs it complete for the spoke pattern and examples of the spokes. These are used to sourse replacement stainless ones he has made which takes a week. Then the powder coating is done, he can do any colour you like with powder coat, obviously i wanted a flat gold to match the TDR finish. If you want he will anodise as well. Just anodising the base has to be perfect. Then obviously he has to build and true the wheel.

Merv asked for some piccies once they were finished. Paul sends photo's of them so you can see em before he sends them to you. In the pics they look spot on, the gold looks to be just right too. Not anodised, both the hubs and rims have been powder coated as obviously neither the rims or hubs are new enough for anodising without extensive (expensive) work. More so with the rims as the front has a repair (you have to know where to look to see it though) and it means i still have ALL the original bits on the bike. Anyway, all in for under 250quid, rims and hubs were strpped then powder coated, new stainless spokes made specifically for each application. None too shabby i think. Have to see em in the flesh but that will be Saturday when i pick em up. I have left the images deliberately big so you can see em better. This is the fellow's web site, deserves a plug so far.....SFX Wheels

Just thinking aloud here but i remember when these motors first appeared in 125's and the valve was pegged with carb restrictions and a bloody great washer in the pipe to give 12hp. An hours work and you were on a 20hp rocket. The new engines don't seem nearly so much fun, like the latest stuff has its powervalves operate and they just don't go. The pipe restriction is a little bit. I recon the barrel and PV have been toned down. Opinions?