Cynic

Just watch the caustic soda on bare ally.

That is a bit tasty.

YOU are the problem, you can whelie anything. Its just a question of experience and balance coupled with enough money to fix it WHEN you get it wrong. When that happens on a pushbike you just get up but it can have some nasty concequences on a motorbike. Its all about balance point which is quite high, the same as the sweet spot when you whelie a mountain bike. Its high enough to sort of float, needs very little effort to keep it there. When you have hoisted it you need to cover the rear brake to stop you going over the top. I can't do it, well at least not with any style and i've bust enough taillights to know when to give up. OH BTW it WILL kracker your steering head bearings and your headlight assy will fall to bits, have fun.

I think the first question i would be asking is does it run ok at 6v, as far as spedo's go one of those 6.99 pushbike things is legal there is no C+U specific rules on it so long as it is fitted and working. And DT electrics are not a strong point. Otherwise i wouldnt discount it as an option, looks tasty too.

Is that how you 'tune up' a Jawa then.

My neighbour bought one of them and its usefull for the little stuff like that, he's doing up a CG125 (retirement project he'll never finish) and we found Kiln dried sand worked as well as the aluminium oxide powder. Cheaper too.

I have to ask, why take the pump off?

Its the point about the insurance being LESS than the DT I like.....

Yep just undo the screws and off she'll pop, ish. The kickstart assy may come away slightly with the cover and that will go with a twang as the spring unloads if its in the mood but that is about it. The pump connects to a nylon gear that runs on the primary drive gear. You WILL fug the gasket getting it off unless the last person to do it used plenty of grease as its very thin in places. There are 2 dowels to look out for. The rubbish screws will probably need some abuse too. Otherwise easy p. If you get it at the right angle you don't even need to drop the oil. (don't forget tho.)

Bear

Monkey

I wish stuff survived like that in the uk, your wheels and pipes look fine they would be a dirty rusted mess over here.

Scottoiler, simple. Some love em some don't my last chain did 20+000 miles. I had to change it cos of the 21link measurement.

Thats like swapping a meal at the Ritz in Mayfair with all the trimmings for a Kebab with salad.

Wellington

kinky

sex

No worries nice to know it turned out ok.

The XT's his dad's.

That might be the issue, they are only any good for flat out wide open throttle, on my DT years back i got the best results with a sports element inside the std housing with a few 'extra' holes in the dirty side of the housing. It don't sound as fast but the engine worked better. TTs tuned my suzuki, got it up to around 90bhp (pretty good for something that starts with 74) and they kept the original airbox. They will only remove it on express orders from the customer as VERY few bikes work better on the road without one.

Isn't this fun. So what it looks like is the bike is lean at full power but richens up on part throttle. Do you have one of the fancy open filters or a performance filter in the original housing.

Chassis no/ engine no/ photo's needed.

Sorry WF but this is confusing, the 'proper' way of discribing the needle position is counting the groves from the top for the clip position. Are you saying you have the clip in the top groove or the bottom grove? How can you say she's running fine when at the start of the thread the bike was heat siezing if you run more than 20-30 miles?

Thats why its running a bit off, if you go up on the main jet you can lower the needle position and keep your midrange as well as prevent the high rpm issues.