Cynic

Sounds like the loom has had it or at least the section around the headstock, get the outer tape off and have a proper look at the wiring. The target is maybe a trapped or worn wire(s). You are going to need patience and a wiring diagram for this, good luck.

Not a problem there are people on here that can answer just about any question on bikes, there are some characters as well but as it goes its about the best forum i've been on. Busy enough to get quick answers and frank enough to keep it straight and to the point. For what its worth its the people that go in for the really stupid questions are the ones that get left out in the cold like will a fzr 1000 engine fit my dt125, an exageration but you get my meaning. Make sure your profile is fully filled out and you will find just about all the info you need or where to get it. Enjoy.

So it goes in and you get a puff of smoke out the back thats cleaned all the crap out, one word. Bollocks, sorry to be frank you want to clean the upper cyl take it to bits. If the engine is running rough and the temp is well up you have a problem that will need spanners to fix. I'm no expert on water pumpers so there are better people on here for this but i'd be looking at the water level first and if you are using any it is probably something like a head gasket. If no water usage? Maybe a crank bearing going making the motor run massively lean due to the crank seal. Bloke on here called JimR is prob the best bet on these motors.

Its a friction reducer esentially designed for car engines, its suppost to go in the engine oil but unless its got a lot better it shags your clutch on bikes. Or at least it has on the people i know that used it.

No, with respect they are very much different bikes, they have a similar 'family' look but not a lot else.

Probably on the shelf with left handed screwdrivers and tins of elbow grease, sounds like a wind up if you've been told to put slick 50 (shudder) in it, but if we knew what bike it would help.

Yes a bad battery will do at a push as it will soak up the overcharge from the mag. But you will still be working the regulator hard and from personal experience they are rarer than rocking horse sh1t and twice the price. Right had a good look at the wiring and the ignition system is completely self contained on your bike, the system runs very similar to points. The carging/lighting circuit has no connection to the ignition system whatsoever, it generates its own power, but the voltage regulator will struggle without the battery to soak the excess in the lighting/charging circuit. And i repeat they are expensive and rare, it took me 6months to find one.

Hi the bike you have is pretty much the same as a UK 78 DT175MX. Cdi ig, monoshock rear, 6speed and yes it will run without a battery but you will blow out the headlight and or the voltage regulator, the next one down the line from that is your CDi. As far as torque specs the barrel base bolts (4of) are 29 lbf ftn with the cylinder head nuts (6of) at 15-18. I can't help with an accurate torque figure on the inlet and exhaust. Somebody else may have that info but i've always gone with the amount of effort it took to undo if i'm stuck.

That is the coil that deals with high rpm realistically from around 3000rmp upwards.

To the west between j15a and 16 on the M1.

Your on the wrong type of road mate, get on to the A and B roads with some bumpy bits in em M45 mmmm try the stuff around Dunchurch and off towards Rugby or the other direction to Banbury and Southam or down to the Leamington road.

A weak spark can give the impresion of a rich mixture as the spark struggles to ignite the fuel so it doesent burn properly and soots up the top end. Leaning the mixture out will help it run but ultimately at higher rpm you will lose out.

Dictator

Now i'm sorry to put you off in a completely different direction but. Myself and OG have just found our primary ig coils are down on spec by nearly 25%, this will have the double whammy of giving you a weak spark at higher rpm due to the weak coil and afect the timing of the spark due to the cdi referencing the voltages generated to fire the spark. Its an easy check, between black and brown and red and black, you should get 420ohm and 13.8 ohm. You may have the later 5wire mag (6 wire cdi) and then the prob doesent appear to happen but it sounds like it could be worth checking before you go at the bike with a gallon of gas and a match.

I would be careful about that asumption. You may have the newer engine with the older mag fitted so as far as the wiring is concerned its all tickety boo. Other than that anything is possible.

No good OG under the latest reg's for numberplates they can only be bought complete with the suppliers address as part of the plate so they can be traced, look in the back of the better bike mags and look for 'show plates' any size any type any colour. They aint legal but hey.

The numbers i quoted are to id which bike you have. The part no at cmsl is 9382214043, thats a 14 tooth front sprocket.

Yes the clutch is the same for all 3 years. With the spring free length 36.4mm service limit 35.4mm. Fr no CT1 300004 on 1973-1976 if its a uk bikewith 1G1 000101 taking over in 1976 -78. As for telling the difference on a uk bike its down to the colours as far as i understand and possibly the registration . The US stuff would be 443-000101 (74) Dt175A .................................443-100101 (75) Dt175B .................................559-000101 (76) Dt 175C There were no DT 125/75 imports to the states in 77 I gave you both as you havent put your location on your profile.

Maybe a different thread title would have been better, Spedo's on Ebay by Dirty Dt OOOOer missus.

For my 2 peneth i'd go with fuel pressure, the bike sits forever waiting for you to go out and the fuel goes off slightly in the lines. Modern unleaded goes waxy over time. It just takes a bit for good clean fuel to get to the engine. Fuel filter probably wants a clean. I'm happy to be proved wrong on this as i prefer the older 80's stuff but an Astra GTE i owned many years ago did much the same. (I had a works van)

Hello, twas me that asked. I figured it couldn't hurt i wasn't sure which system was on the bike. I thought an extra head may help. Esp as in Loughborough he's half way between us. Pssst ask his name OG..

If it were me i would re thread it with a slightly smaller thread, the woodruf key and the taper do the holding the bolt just nips it up. Easy enough with a handheld die set, the bolt needs to be done up to 40lb or 5kg/nm. As for locking it up in gear with the back brake locked up should do it if you havent got a strap wrench.

At the first MCN Skeggy weekend Me and Sven got an electra glide up in the air 2 up, then spent the rest of the test ride seeing how much metal we could take off the running boards. We were banned from the stand when we got back, wonder why

OOOps soreee