Cynic

28 days later

That is a bit like the never ending 'which oil' or 'what tyre' question. A lot is down to your personal style and expectations. Sinterd pads stop a bit better but wear out the disk faster. Some pads have more groves for better wet stopping but can get hot. Its never ending. In truth its how you maintain the calipers and fluid that has the greatest effect on the stopping power. Personaly i have never heard of a set of pads disintergrating in normal use. My own bike? Straight up off the shelf regular EBC pads.

Hi, don't get drawn into the hype surrounding the latest super race spec fango track pads. They never work on the road as they are designed to work hot. Standard OE or the HH pads are fine for most of us normal mortals. In my experience anyway.

Thats a new one on me, is it a US only jobbie then?

Regular engine oil, some will say it needs to be specific motorcycle oil some will say cheap and cheerfull. I know what i use in my bikes but i'm not fanning the flames of that particular topic. As far as it goes any std 10/40 engine oil will be fine. Without wanting to confuse things further the MX's didnt start till 78, if you pop the first 4 or 5 characters of the chasis number up we can say for sure.

Don't be so sure, i know my mates call me cynic but! Do you really think the finite design limits of the latest generation of m/c's will allow them to exist as they get older. Peugeuot cars shut themselves down if the car decides its emmisions are out too far. Could there be time perameters built in to the systems of bikes so they start to have niggly faults when they are say 6-7 years old. Also how the hell to you keep electrics running that run on digital networks like the latest stuff is using. Y'know one live and earth and a digital infomation line (i know its more than that). The modern engines run on ignition and fuel limits that you simply have to have a computer to work out, the eurotwats have also foisted construction and use limits that mean the engine has to always be in tip top nick. No i don't think we will be having old YZR's as classic transport in 2030. Even if 2 stroke is special order and as socially acceptable as animal porn i hope to be running my wonderfully old tech 2 strokes till they nail the lid down.

It might seem a bit ott to some but me and the wife use a separate account for online shopping. We opend it specifically for stuff like paypal after a bad scare with a nationwide credit card and several thousand euro's apparently spent in europe. We have an approved overdraft on it. So we don't get caught out by any unseen charges. We then just put on the card what we spend. Then if someone does clone the details we haven't lost a dime the bank would have to sort it.

Not seals as such OG, but there are O rings and bushes. As a rule though when they are leaking there is plenty of telltale black gunk to show. I did lose the clamp on my old 350 that links the 2 valves together, well lose, it more disintegrated i think. Long story, expensive memories, don't ever buy a race bike no mater how cheap. But that left the right cylinder with problems. Also OG do you think this has got to be a pretty big leak to stop the cyl, and its started all of a sudden. The only appeciable seal that could make a farty noise in the motor, (strange sentance) would a blown crank seal. But i don't want to go there yet. Lets prove the easier options first.

Nope, its a 2stroke the stuff on top is the same as the stuff underneath. Seeing as you have ruled out the ig nicely we can start looking elsewhere. OG has pointed out air leaks, has anything been disturbed lately. Noticed any damp or discoloured areas around the motor. I think its worth moving to the carb, its next easiest in the line, remove it without disturbing its neighbour any more than you have to and whip the bottom off, see whats in there then give the jets a lookie see. I use a bit of wire from a kitchen flex with the plastic off as a jet proder. Check the reeds are ok as well. Its a bit of a pain but if we keep it systematic then we will get it.

Ahem ooops , red face many appologies . Brain overtook fingers, yes Castrol R is a vegetable based oil and is unobtainable now i think its R40 or something. But the smell ohhhh. The TDR has some Motul semi but will be sylcolene when it runs out, the DT gets the stuff from Tesco.

Don't go anywhere near mineral oil. Unless you have something really highly strung like an Aprilla RS250 or any of the really looney TZR specials then fully synth is just burning money. A good quality semi 2 stroke will be fine. Silcolene comp 2 injector, or Castrol R smell especially sweet if a little dearer.

Right your RH switchgear has the 2 red and white they are for the engine stop switch, the blue/white is the kill sw. There should also be a brown and a green with a yellow tracer which is for your front brake. There is most likely a dark green too for your indicator. Now the lefthand, there will be a 'chocolate' dark green and a brown and white for the indicators and possibly extras if it has self canceling indicators, then it gets complicated. It depends on the charging system, intended, market, etc as to the wiring of the lighting. You will have a blue,a yellow and a green dealing with the headlight but after that i'm afraid we need at the very least the colours of the wiring from the bike and the switchgear, or the bike and switchgear details to find out properly.

Oldgit (soon to be lucky old git) will hopefully pitch up with one of his pictures soon enough. Its measured from the base of the carb, as in the gasket face WITHOUT the gasket in place. I take it you have done the usual stuff like checking the slide isn't stuck or the cable snagged, fuel flowing ok etc. Stick some pics up, show your work off.

Oh no, in my experience a warped disk is felt through the entire bike, but mainly at the bars. It is litterally like trying to hold on to a jackhammer on speed if its bad.

What happend was people wanted to do all sorts of tuning etc to their bikes through the 90's but those bloody eurocrats were pi55ing in the punch even then with noise regs etc. One of the ways manufacturers got round this was with flat spots in the engine at the exact rpm band of the test. Thats at or about 6000rpm. Trivial persuit answer for you here if an engine runs rich it runs quieter, so most of the bikes in the 90's ran rich midrange to make them quiet then leaner up top to keep the motor clean for the emmisions. The above obviously krackers the ideal settings the designers wanted for the bikes as they were having to fit bigger and clumsyer exhausts to boot, hence they run nowhere near their potential. In comes dynojet, they supplied kits to correct all the euro trash the bikes were lumberd with and did the developement to be able to adjust the kit so suit race pipes etc. Worked too, i had a Dynojet kit on my 600 with a few other 'enhansements'. Obviously time marches on and the cutting edge stuff started getting fuel injection, the early stuff was pretty ropey tbh, some of the new stuff isn't great either. This is still because of the euro tat again. The bikes are trying to be good for the rules and good for us, and again never the twain. Dynojet again spotted this and started doing little black boxes to correct the FI glitches so the bike was as it should be, or tweaked for race cans and such. Once the ignition systems were being mapped and linked to the fueling the bike electronically controlled everything. Enter the power commander a programmable black box that adjusts the ignition and fueling maps to the ideal. You do still need a rolling road to get it really good but it means the bike is optimised for your particular exhaust ,filter, any porting work etc. I would think the greater part of bikes under 3-4 years old with some tuning and a pipe will have one. They were a must have on the VFR800. And i believe you can get them for just about anything these days. I know it probably sounds like an ad but i've never heard anybody say anything but good things about them.

Dynojet beat you to it, Its called a Power Commander.

I've seen people do this before. Have you actually identified what does what on the loom and what does what on the switches or just taken wires of the same colour and matched them up? You need to sit down with the wiring diagrams for each bike, unfortunately there are wires in a bike loom that aren't always listed, when i got the cable to wire my DT there are quite a few colours that are on the bike that are not on the drw or are present as a little line but not annotated. Some are pretty std like the dark brown and dark green being the indicators, yellow is generally the lighting feed and red and black are self explanitory (not on some Honda's though black is live). I'll see if i can fiqure something out.

I am delicately assuming the PDIL ISN'T 6foot and counting and clocking in at 15 stone, so, she might get a lot more from it. When i first had my 600 i could quite happily ride with a mate of mine with his 1200 bandit cos he was 6stone heavier than me and that squashed all the advantage he got from the extra 600cc, And if we swapped bikes, yeeeeeha. Wait and see if she finds it a problem before you go tearing it up. If she is like my missus so long as it starts, stops and she can call it something stupid she will be fine.

I konw your the wrong side of the atlantic for these guys but TY trials spcialise in 70's and 80's off road, dirt and trail bikes. As far as i know they post worldwide and are quite happy to rabbit on over the phone about your problems. Try their website, If they can't help i would expect him to know someone who can.

See, difinitive photographic evidence that the black ones are fastest.

Far as i'm aware the RD250 has always been a 6 speeder. I'm sure Merv or one of the other Aircooled RD nuts will let you know.

Damn i'm outed...........

Yes i was lurking at the time but i remember the threads.

Last week work had us filling in yet MORE paperwork and i noticed i could be African, Asian, Chineese, etc etc or white? Not English, British or American etc just white. Has it gone full circle here or something. Then i got this poem through from a friend of mine (a woman in her 60's if your botherd). England, my England Goodbye to my England, So long my old friend Your days are numbered, being brought to an end To be Scottish, Irish or Welsh that's fine But don't say you're English, that's way out of line. The French and the Germans may call themselves such So may Norwegians, the Swedes and the Dutch You can say you are Russian or maybe a Dane But don't say you're English ever again. At Broadcasting House the word is taboo In Brussels it's scrapped, in Parliament too Even schools are affected. Staff do as they're told They must not teach children about England of old. Writers like Shakespeare, Milton and Shaw The pupils don't learn about them anymore How about Agincourt, Hastings , Arnhem or Mons ? When England lost hosts of her very brave sons. We are not Europeans, how can we be? Europe is miles away, over the sea We're the English from England, let's all be proud Stand up and be counted - Shout it out loud! The trouble is its right.

If that was the case it would affect BOTH cylinders.