Cynic

Me too, the trailwings have taken me all through the shitty weather we've had including the frost ice snow etc, but they are still grippy when it warms up like today. I rode the ridgeway with my last set, even when i was really into off road trails a decade or more ago i still had the trail wings.

Name them and shame them, that is really bad.

Ding dong alarm bells ring. Did he know what he was doing?, why fit a piston but not bore it?, why did it need a piston? You need to have the top off to check. Then you know the bore/rings are actually OK and that it has proper coolant etc.

I couldn't be arsed to track down a link. Could be the std punishment i suppose. Getting a sarni will never be the same. Or should that be a Sellek. I'll do it properly next time.

OHHHH sneaky, we haven't been introduced....... Ashbar, Michelin Pilot Road will do all you ever need. I have had avons and dunlops and had issues with both, the Michelin is top of the class for me. Touring to knee down they will do it. If you want to really bang on with track days and such or you just ride bloody fast there is a sport version but for most of us mortals it will just wear out faster and not work as well in shitty weather as they will struggle to warm up. Its an unanswerable question though as tyres all differ slightly as do our bikes and our riding.

Yes open the headlight up and trace the red/white wires that go to the run button, then splice them together and turn it on and off with the ig switch. The sw powers the ig coils, and the switch is powerd by the main (ig switch), therefore connect these two together securely and problem fixed.

10 year old 2 stroke wont rev, de coke'd it. Take the exhaust off and have a look in the pipe and up the exhaust port, chances are its coverd in oily carbon build up.

Is that just a longer skirt, if the deck height is the same,(height from gudgeon pin ctr to top of piston) and the ports aren't too long. Ie they don't drop too far then it you could just trim the required amount of metal from the piston.

Had it checked out? Recently, how did the voltage test go? and you have checked for loose headlight bulb etc.

Does depend on the level of resto though eh. Getting a bike to good running condition shouldn't cost the earth if the bike is pretty much complete. Its the overzealous (cue nasal nerdy voice) "Oh my that veloceorton thruxonnivile didn't have a zink washer there! it was painted oh my god!! the calamity call the police" that cost a mint. My DT makeover (a 10 yearly event ) cost around 250 all in. Doing the work myself. Rebuilt the motor Stripped and painted frame/sw arm Full rewire Replaced all fixings for stainless/semi-stainless New st head and sw arm bearings New c/s Brake linings The above is all the restorers do,just the degree's of finish. Just depends if you want to ride it or look at it, me well its been taking me to work quite happily through all the salt and shit this winter.

That number is not listed with DVLA any more, at least not on computer, it has obviously been a LONG time since it was registerd. If you were planning on putting it on the road it may have complications.....

Surely that would have been bad from square one though, not gradually got worse?

Your not lonely any more, hoping for some irony with the team name.

Thats a pain in the arse.

Be sure to check first, warranty issues and in some cases dealer insurance (that comes with the bike new) can have some draconian clauses in it. They should only be swapped for manufacturer reccomendations. If the oe tyres are changed for a sports type it can render any cover void. Dull i know but dealers are bad enough as it is, dont give them the bat to hit you with.

It don't matter really. Can't breathe in far enough to read it all. No punctuation at all! I've tried to read it twice now and it just gives me a headache.

check your battery, could be low. With any luck it will just need topping up with water. If not maybe replacing. If you find it is low on fluid check the voltage at the terminals with the engine running. Should be 13-14 volts or thereabouts. Check that the battery terminals tight too.

The first part of your problem may be the problem. If the rectifiers bad then the ignition system may not be getting the correct voltage to run. Also constant bulk charge from a charger will do the battery in, car batteries are not happy dropping below 90%charge and may not recover from 70% or below, they will certainly be damaged and the point where we all say "shit where's the charger" is normally below that . You have to fix that first, it may be separate. My old DT had a completely isolated ig system. Great! saved me walking a couple of times off road when nothing else worked..... Anyway the TDR on the other hand, thats different. Bad battery then things go all to ratshit in a hand cart with weird missfires and stupid powervalve opperation. May not be what you wanted to hear but.....Fix the rectifier....

They should have an id number on them, they look in ok nick so the number should be perfectly readable once you find it.

C'mon blackie more than 2 strokes is (a) wa....

Sounds like floaters to me, rubbish in the carb and the tank, sometimes it falls in the right spot to choke the fuel, other times it doesent.

I'm standing, but still sitting down

I hope your spam protection is up to speed if your putting your details in open forum, use the PM ( personal message) system. Click on the members name and you will go to a new page, from there you can send a personal message.