Cynic

Why, there isn't a strike and as far as i can see there isn't likely to be one. Just think how much bad publicity material has been very quietly announced while the shit hits the fan for the fuel. Then the duty raised by something like 6 times the normal amount of fuel being shifted The fact all the forecourts have put the price up by 5-6p a litre while its been going on all just cos that halfwit hyping the tanker drivers to supposedly strike, if that was the case do you not think that all the other unite members would be canvased for a view. They haven't by the way. Just think how the shit would hit the fan if say half of the unite members went out. Thats got to be thousands of hgv drivers. The tanker thing is noise. The schoolyard bully giving the "c'mon then' bit. They even confirmed nothing would happen this side of Easter, thats like air traffic controllers striking mid November. Last monday would have been it if it were me. Get everybody crapping it that they wouldn't have fuel for the holiday, everything would have stalled. Even the army substituted would never have met demand. Now the only beneficiaries are the forecourts now fuel has gone up. not gonna happen.

Without wanting to start any issues i have a problem...... The Scots have their flag.. The Welsh have theirs And the English, oh right, best we get is the piggin union jack, even worse i can't turn the thing off now.

Sounds like common sense to me.

So it has 52000miles and has problems from been used for drag racing, are you being paid to take it away? I hope so.

That will be interesting, my old man had one of those, silver if my memory serves me right. I'm pretty sure it also had Monza on the side panels too, might have been Le Mans but i don't think so. Ended up selling because he got sick of the torque reaction of the shaft and the engine, i never rode it (being 13 or 14 at the time ).Its something to do with the shaft and the engine rotating the same way. I can't remember which way round but one way it would drop like a brick and the other you had to heave on the bars like your life depended on it in a turn unless you rode very gently on the throttle, not something my old man is fond of although he has matured onto an intruder. He has a CB175 for giggles that i have been trying for years to get hold of. Should be a good read if it continues.

Heh heh drove past ALL the queing cars last night to the deserted LPG pump . My motor only uses petrol to start it so the couple of gallon i have will last weeks....

They are there to prevent foaming in the fork oil according to my TDR manual (Max 6psi). Modern oil stops that, nothing to do with the load they can take. Best left TBH.

Got to be honest I would have agreed it was a byproduct of other things. But my ankle is still best part useless. I can start the bike but not a lot else. I'm still limping and it still hurts like a bastard. Its stopping my foot moving naturally so my right foot was just 'on the peg' and i was just pushing the bars to steer. Never gave it a thought, till i rode out the village and made a proper cock up of the first corner, a right hander funnily enough. To add to the training/riding point i have done several police public training courses (highly reccomended), and their sit in the seat upright style is far more effective than you might think. All the hero's knee out crawling all over the bike, waste of energy unless your going for the WSB title. Thats why i was so surprised, to the point i took 2 left handers with my hands just off the bars, (right still hurts too much) no problems save for slowing down, they were proper turns too. Not alpine hairpins i'll grant you but as i wasn't actually holding the bars there must be something in it.

Ok i thought most of the stuff about loading the footpegs in corners was hype. Unless your taking cadwells mountain or going for megga lean angles its irrelevant to most of us. Well last Tuesday i badly cut and bruised the back of my heel, including bruising my achilees (not reccomended) well i used the car for a couple of days. (difficult to kick the bike over with a gammy right leg, not to mention my boots). Well i was back on the bike yesterday and could i turn right, could i buggery, wobbled round corners like a piss head. Wandering to the left etc. Its better today as is my foot. I know the TDR is more sensitive to fine inputs than a lot of other bikes but it really did surprise me. To the point today on the trip home i was actually leaning hard on the footpegs and you really can steer in the very real sense of the word with your feet. If you use the pegs and the bars its like the bike falls over. You turn so sharp its like your in a tron movie. All these years i must have been doing it subconciously.

Okey pokey, Not very scientific i'm afraid. Inbetween the nylon bushes is a steel one that siezes to the spindle if neglected. Then the crud fills the gaps up further along and jams the whole lot up. Any pressure just locks it up. What i did was to cut through the spindle at the point where the nylon top hat bushes are visible. It takes time and patience i'm afraid but you should be able to saw right through on both sides. Inbetween the frame and spindle. Then once its out you can clamp it nice and tight and drive the remains of the spindle out with surprisingly little abuse, probably nothing more than a few stout taps with a drift as when your trying to drive the spindle out in the bike the top hat bush on the opposite side is hard against the frame and just as jammed up with rusty crud as the rest of it. Locking it as effectively as if it were bolted up. It may be possible to hit it hard enough to get it out but that much force will knacker the spindle anyway. I certainly felt it was better to sacrifice the spindle than risk damaging the frame.

Well if it were my bike i would be looking at flush fit indicators mounted into the top box base, either stuff from a car scrapyard (car side repeater lamps from a late 90's Ford or Rover are adaptable) or the accessory shops. The wiring would be easy to extend routed along the framework of the rack with some basic soldering/ heatshrink or if you insist crimps. That would leave the bike with clean lines, indicators you can see and you/your pilloion wont kick them halfway to Moscow getting on the bike.

Why bother, won't make a whole chestnut of difference to a 600 anyhow. If your after tenths of a second at Mallory park fine, on a divvy ridden all year. Stock is best.

Ok wasn't expecting quite that response. your diy level is what? assuming 1) couldn't change a sparkplug- 10) Strip and rebuild an F1 car overnight to relax

If the rack is going to be there long tem why not relocate your indicators to it.

I would be more worried if they still rattle while your slowing down. I'm with kev on this the brakes on my old suzuki sounded like a washing machine falling down some concrete stairs. With the rotor noise too. Never had a problem. Fellow who ownes it now fixed the rattling (against my advice) and has replaced the disks and pads since due to siezure.

Can i ask, would you walk straight up to a group of blokes talking bikes and use the sentance that you used at the top? ie:"My thunderace has started chugging badly at very low revs 1500-2500 (only when warm), it has new plugs with correct spark gap etc. once above these revs it runs smoothly with no probs. Any ideas ?" Most likely as most people, you would have started; "Alright lads hows it going etc etc". Then piped up with " Got a bit of trouble with the old thunderace." That is generally how it works on here, there are no 'must wait for mod approval', or 'first 10 posts are vetted', or 'wait 24hrs to post'. Thats cos the forum kind of sorts its self. You will get a lot more from the members with a bit of an intro in the new members area, where you are, your bike etc. Think of it as the "Alright lads hows it going etc etc", bit.

I do believe the masses require a pic or 3 to solve the issue...

You gotta love HD, they build a bike that doesen't go, doesen't stop and doesen't corner. Then sell the parts to improve the bike way beyond showroom level and charge a bloody fortune to do it.

Think its an RX-S spelt wrong

If he'd done that it would be crap all the time, i have a couple of suggestions. The first one being manners, the second use the intro section. Third and forth can wait a while.

Not sure performance wise, as i remember ( quiet at the back) the RS was the quicker due to it being born before the hp limits.

+1 Hammerite been using it on the DT for 20years, aerosol smooth black. Done it twice now, you will not abuse that bike of yours more than i have the DT.

I'm no engine tuner but i'll try. Straight throughs are just as they say but the reflections are reduced, every collar, bend and weld in the pipe will affect the way it removes gas. Straight throughs have very little and will therefore be easy to tune. Is this some sort of technical exercise, can't see there being a lot of horses in that v twin, more so they don't respond to revs. Paul's goes well apparently as he used the trusted, ' if its not absolutely vital its gone' approach. Every KG counts. As a slightly off topic example, friend of mine had a 1200bandit and weighed 18stone, i had a tweaked 600 suzuki and weighed 13 stone, apart from me topping out on the limiter earlier there was no difference in our bikes performance. If we swapped bikes though, ha i was G_O_N_E.

First question, which one.... There is the regular TZR, then there is the hideously complex reverse cyl finishing with the Vtwin. As far as it goes they are what they are, 2 stroke race reps but if you stick with the regular version then IF you get a good one they will be easier to ride, nearly as quick as the Kwak and suzuki 250's and MUCH easier to live with. The last question and its a biggy, have you actually ridden a quick 2 stroke..........

Life acording to Kev....... Don't get caught