Cynic

Take a set of bars. Cut in half then using a piece of tube that the original fits inside. Drill for locking pins and use twist clamps to tighten. Prob get 3 or 4 inches adjustment. How strong would be entirely down to your diy skills. As well as material quality.

As i understand it the standard difference between road and dirt on yammy motors is peak power/torque location done with carb settings and exhaust/cdi and a different 1st ratio.

Kevs arse is somethibg to stay well ckear of. The pump is always the best option. Cleaner more accurate and very reliable. They normally work fine and are accused of failing because someone has messed with it. Don't forget you only have lube under power and only the right amount under full power. With the pump when at low throttle you use little oil. Keeps the plugs clean. I can see no upside of not using it. Dirty HAS to use his as the RH crank bearing has positive lubrication (i think?Numan?)

i'll be coming up friday too. Might run along with DDT. See how the timings go. Whats the crusing speed of the TS, with it being a shakedown, running in run? I know there is a few years and 30 odd hp between them. Is 60 realistic. Or will that be too much.

You lucky sods. You can do what you like..........

Anything can be made to fit but to get that lump in you will prob need the front frame tubes from the 125, reinforce the rear monts. Fab a completely different exhaust. Let alone tank and head clearance. To state just a few issues. Stregthen the suspention and brakes as they struggle to deal with a big bore. TBH waste of time as it will be diffucult to mot and nigh in impossible to insure. As an exercise it would be interesting.

Have you tried the actual 350 owners club. I know they have remanufactured some of the harder to find parts.

On my tdr you have to press down on the cap as you turn the key.

Yep. Except for 1st gear and cdi/pv settings to give more torque it the same. I think the TZR250 lights up at 7 grand and runs on to around 11. Nuts and blolts wise they are the same. I kniw what it costs after my oil cock up where i thought i was looking at a rebuild. 400 notes for diy or 6 for stan stephens to do it. Chuck in a rebore, some bearings and a bit of cosmetics and a grand comes and goes very easily. When you remember its a 2 stroke with known weak points like the lh crank seal and the waterpump seal. These bikes in bits are an expensive gamble. Even good ones.

Not a problem hijacks like that i can take all day. I will get some pics up promise

Don't go for that one, my daughter is dyslexic, as is my sister. Just clear answers to whats been asked, copy and paste is prob easiest then just add in your answer with a different text colour. We will get it sorted but i was getting more and more confused as we were so felt a fixit was needed. Getting you back on the road asap is the aim after all.

Not wanting to be unkind but your replies are way too vague your not telling me anything worthwhile. You need to answer the questions with at least some clarity and as much depth as you can, and in a dicernable pattern if not order. Its doing my head in trying to match your answer to the nearest question you may be answering. Your not even bothering with any punctuation. Don't forget all i have to go on are your answers and working knowledge of a bike that i cannot see, hear, smell or otherwise. I'm not psychic

Have you taken it off for a lookie see? There is nothing behind there that CAN leak fuel and oil in any quantity without affecting the way the bike runs. Are you sure its not just the carb leaking a little and when yo have put it on the stand its run off to the left of the bike picking up some shit as it goes? Or is the bike not running well either?

Coming from one of the overflow pipes?, i'm assuming the bike runs ok?

No Kev YOUR shit at navigation. There pretty good for speed, truck taco's have to be rolling road calibrated and accurate to within shitty government tolerances and mine always agree's with the taco on the truck, not always the spedo but always the taco.

Ok, aircooled bike driping liquid gives us 4 options. Fuel Oil engine Oil gearbox and water from washing rain etc. Take it we can rule out number 4 You have removed fuel from the easy fixes so oil it must be. You say fuel/oil mix. Any concrete reasons for this or just guessing. What colour is the offending mix as gearbox oil is normally oil? coloured and the 2 stroke stuff is invariably a bright colour, normally red although blue and green are out there. You should really have a root around to find the point of the drip, where its coming from may well help. I have a feeling you may say front left but i'm not going further with that yet.

Does it stop if you turn the fuel tap off.

Why it tallys with Ttasky's results perfectly, be the same with yours too and most everybodyelses unless they forked out for some fancy calibrated stuff. Its why some DT's do 80+ no probs, they just got a really wanky clock set thats all.

You have it wrong. Cycle parts arenot too hard to find but that motor alone could cost you a grand. Parts alone for a full overhaul on a good one will be around 300. Throw in nakerquicksil barrels and any bearins/crank work and it just takes off. Don't forget to add labour unless you are well used to 2strokes. The rest is nit too bad but its 20pluss years old so everything will cost. If due to the nature of the bike and itsvtypical owner a lot of what you have may be scrap. I don't want to out you off but 'for a laugh' is not the most encouraging phrases for a build like this.

Cobblers. Spedometers are way out typically by 8-10%. Legally they cannot under read. Not to mention being fast clears any warranties faster. I have had my tdr at 10000rpm in top once. 107 on the sat nav. 140 on the clock. Its 10mph out at 70.

Glad you sorted it, any 2 stroke owner with any experience will have a few good plugs to hand to check with at the first sign of trouble. It would be worthwhile to get another plug and swap on to that and then keep this one, then if you have issues again its a good check. Its not uncommon to have duff plugs straight out the box. Don't trust it just cos its new MAKE SURE.

Friend of mine is back for a few weeks before going back again. Think this is his 4 th tour. As a dog handler specialising in finding these things he is a HVT. Oddly enough he DOESENT talk about the ones that go off. Also the first week or so of leave you can see the stress in him, he's just about right when he goes back. From what he sayes there are few enough that do what he does and every one they find is saving lives. I think he must have a big hairy solid brass pair myself.

Still sounds like a fuel issue to me. Fuel flow or crap floating about in the chamber.

No problem. I have had 2 problems on my tdr that were both down to plugs. Looked ok and sparked but once in the cyl. Nothing. I understand that the crappy nature of a 2stroke charge makes the plugs a lot more critical than a 4stroke. It is also an easy one to try. Esp on a dt. Not so on thr TDR it will cost skin on that. I know.

2stroke ownership rule number one, lesson one, try another plug. Lesson 2 repeat lesson one with another plug. Not kidding, lots of 2 stroke ills come from bad plugs and in the case of yammy powervalve motors the battery as well, as the signals can get messy and make it do some daft stuff. Then lesson 3 clean the carb internally. There you go 2 stroke ills in a jiffy