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No Lights


Mr Marlboro
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The only part of restoring the bike I didn't want to do is the electrical side, but it seems I have no choice as I dont have any lights apart from a my headlight (all 3 functions - sidelights/dipped/Main beam). Now last night when i swapped over my rear brake light unit to replace a crap aftermarket one, the brakelight did work momentarily. Now i have to be honest i have no idea where the fuse box is on a aerox so i cant check. Any ideas?

Thanks.

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The only part of restoring the bike I didn't want to do is the electrical side, but it seems I have no choice as I dont have any lights apart from a my headlight (all 3 functions - sidelights/dipped/Main beam). Now last night when i swapped over my rear brake light unit to replace a crap aftermarket one, the brakelight did work momentarily. Now i have to be honest i have no idea where the fuse box is on a aerox so i cant check. Any ideas?

Thanks.

Hi there, at the risk of sounding silly hark back to the old saying 'all roads lead to London' and then apply the notion to the bike and think: 'all wires lead to fuses'. When all else fails follow the power side 'backwards' as it were and it should ultimately take you somewhere. It may be that on the smaller machines they don't have that many circuit dedicated fuses and the circuit protection may be incorporated into a larger / general one. They're usually placed to be weather proofed but accessible. Under the seat and behind side panels is the best starting place. Hope this helps!

Kind regards,

Chris Heath

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Well i found "THE" fuse and i think the pillock that owned this bike before had put a bigger fuse in it. My old aerox had working lights brake lights you name it but mine had a 7.5 fuse it in this newer bike has a 15 would this cause any problems

Thanks Again lol.

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Well i found "THE" fuse and i think the pillock that owned this bike before had put a bigger fuse in it. My old aerox had working lights brake lights you name it but mine had a 7.5 fuse it in this newer bike has a 15 would this cause any problems

Thanks Again lol.

Hi there, glad you found it! The norm is that the fuse blows and gets replaced with whatever's to hand. What you need to do is check the bulb ratings (in watts) and add up the current requirements to see if 7.5 is big enough. You want the smallest fuse possible capable of dealing with a continuous load (in amps). If you re-arrange Ohm's law you get power (watts) = volts x amps. If you re-arrange this you get watts / volts = amps. So if you have a 12 volt system for instance and you take out your headlamp bulb and it's rated at say 24 watts you divide this by the voltage (12) and get 2 (amps). Follow this through for all the systems that would be on continuously (like the lights, front and rear) and you start to get an idea as to the fuse rating. Bear in mind that indicators and brake lights are only on intermittently unless you spend a lot of time waiting at junctions to turn off. People sometimes over-rate the headlamp bulbs etc. to get better vision and may uprate the fuse. Hope this helps!

Kind regards,

Chris Heath

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