dt502001 Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Ok then as it is sandwiched between the bearings then without it your unsafe without it . Are you sure it's not in the outer bearing#1? ..........is #1 a bearing or a seal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewElvisFan Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Number 1 is the left hand bearing. On the opposite side (brake) is where the bearing pics were from. Inside the hub was loads of dirt and rusty bits of crap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Then you need to measure the distance between the bearings and see if someone put a longer sleeve in #3 or #2 has in fact disingerated or just missing,Or installed a different wheel. Without the center of the bearing suported then they will colapse everytime you tighten the axel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewElvisFan Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 I was just thinking the same about measuring the internal of the hub. But it can wait a few hours - it's 3am here lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted March 23, 2014 Moderator Share Posted March 23, 2014 LINKY I have a blind puller if you are struggling to get the bearings out Andrew. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewElvisFan Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Cheers - bearings are out now. I've just measured inside the hub at 109mm so same as the long spacer. Either yamaha changed the spec in 97 (date of my manual) or a previous owner changed the spacer. So panic over there! Bearings are on order and I will be collecting tomorrow. Just got to sort the front brakes out now. Struggling to loosen off a hex bolt though - already twisted a hex key!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewElvisFan Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Steve might be interested in a blind puller though lol! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wild foamy Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Oh ha f*cking ha! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewElvisFan Posted March 26, 2014 Author Share Posted March 26, 2014 I finally got new seals and after cleaning all corrosion and brake dust away, got it all re fitted. Unfortunately the pads are still binding. New brake fluid, new seals. Only thing is I'm not 100% sure they've gone back in the same way. Although identical pads, one has worn more than the other. Would this make a major difference on refitting? The wheel does turn but not freely. Also, one of the pads had this on it but i can't see what good it did on it's own - I would have expected 2 or 4 to make it symmetrical. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhat250 Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 If one has worn more, the caliper must be sticking , it be the sliding pin type ? , easy strip ,emry - grease. the pins , Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewElvisFan Posted March 26, 2014 Author Share Posted March 26, 2014 It is the sliding single type. The piston is approximately 35mm. I've stripped it, given a good clean and refitted with new seals. There are also 2 sliding pins, 1 smaller than the other but were both clean to the eye and smooth in operation. They are not operated by the oil and appear to only keep the plates level. I'll strip it again tomorrow after work and see what happens with fresh grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewElvisFan Posted March 26, 2014 Author Share Posted March 26, 2014 Do these pics help describe what I mean? It's a bit dark out there now, but I'll stick another couple up tomorrow when I've removed it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewElvisFan Posted March 26, 2014 Author Share Posted March 26, 2014 The piston did take a fair amount of effort to push in after I'd put new seals in. Should it have been an easy slide in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted March 26, 2014 Moderator Share Posted March 26, 2014 shouldnt be easy...or too hard either. Its hard to quantify just how much effort you put into it though? Should have run a little vaseline around the edge of the seal and the piston first though maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewElvisFan Posted March 26, 2014 Author Share Posted March 26, 2014 I used a small amount of brake fluid as per manual. Like you say hard to quantify effort used - I'm still suffer from d+v virus so possibly not that hard! I'll take it off and check the grease in the calipers tomorrow night and re post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewElvisFan Posted March 27, 2014 Author Share Posted March 27, 2014 Update: Bled and stripped it all down again and all is clean as a whistle. Used some grease on the bolt that holds the pads and refit to the bike. Bled it all through and working perfectly! Had to switch the wires back for the light cos the high beam light on the dash was working when it shouldn't and vice versa, put new bulb in and is now working as it should. No play in rear wheel and even straightened the rear brake rod. Re test booked for Saturday morning and feeling confident Thanks for all your input! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Well done mate. Brake plate sorted? Tyres still ok...good luck mate 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 OOps missed this last bit,it not uncommon for the stationary brake pad to wear a little less than the piston side,mainly when thing dont move smoothly. I know with all the little ones money is alwasys tight but fitting new pads will keep everything wearing even,think about it if the pads are worn uneven then the caliper has to work on a angle that it's not suposed to ,,the only way the caliper can work at a 90 degree is for the pads to sit parrel to the disc.Thye only part that can shift is the caliper to accomedate for un even wear in the pads. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewElvisFan Posted March 27, 2014 Author Share Posted March 27, 2014 Tyres have about 1000 miles left on them so about 6 months. In about a month I think I'm going to need to fit a new cam chain. There is still about 3mm left on the pads so plenty to play with but I think for the sake of a tenner I'll do them at the same time as new tyres. Then it'll be time for the car to have its MOT! Something tells me I'll still be on L plates at Squires Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy xs Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Good luck with the MOT Elvis, fingers crossed for yer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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