November 23, 201311 yr Moderator re-zinced will cost you £10 kilo, very cheap, but you need to get them done at the same time.
November 23, 201311 yr Where?? WHERE?!! I painted mine with a rattle can of high-temp alluminium silver paint, it looked good but the colour was flat, im not too sure how it would look matched with your shiny cases, perhaps a simple clean with a wirebrush would be sufficient, the whole idea of the fins is to give a larger surface area to dissipate the heat, polishing smooths down the surfaces and gets rid of the pits and bumps that help get rid of the heat, i had a similar dilemma with an intake plenum on my FTO, eventually i settled for a light polish but definately not mirror-finish either way you choose to do it, im sure it will look badass By producing a polished finish you reduce the conductivity by around 30%. The polished surface will reflect the heat back in, like foil around a turkey.
November 24, 201311 yr NO Why not I thought you would like to hold them firmly and rub them rigorously. But if you don't want to I understand ha ha
November 25, 201311 yr By producing a polished finish you reduce the conductivity by around 30%. The polished surface will reflect the heat back in, like foil around a turkey. not sure about the turkey foil theory but by polishing it you reduce the surface area, but doubt it would be anything like 30% there quite smooth when new. I think if you polish it but not to mirror finish would be best option as paint will act like a layer of insulation a dremmel or similar is ideal to do it with and a hell of a lot quicker
November 25, 201311 yr Ok maybe not foil/turkey. I'll use btu outputs of radiators instead - chromed or polished steel radiators produce approx 25-30% less btu's per hour than a painted surface.
November 25, 201311 yr About the barrels because trying to pollish them is such a big job and dosent realy last painting them with VHT after giving them a good scrub with a wire brush is about the easiest way.Personaly I would paint them black to off set the polish,down sid to this is you should realy remove the barrel and bake em in a oven to cure the paint properly,but I have done it assembled just warm up the eng before painting and after.Then pollish the valve cover. and take a file to the edges of the fins Dont worry about heat retention it's minimal,when you wrap meat in foil your suposed to put the shinny side in and all your pollishing is on the outside so I have no Idea what elvis is going on about.My whole eng has been buffed on the WR save for the valve cover as it's magnizum,I ony wet as far as you on the bolt on covers of the motor,the main cases,head and barrel just got clean back to a bit better than stock. When do we get to see the paint job?or do we have to waite for the BIG walla it's done photo?
November 26, 201311 yr Author About the barrels because trying to pollish them is such a big job and dosent realy last painting them with VHT after giving them a good scrub with a wire brush is about the easiest way.Personaly I would paint them black to off set the polish,down sid to this is you should realy remove the barrel and bake em in a oven to cure the paint properly,but I have done it assembled just warm up the eng before painting and after.Then pollish the valve cover. and take a file to the edges of the fins Dont worry about heat retention it's minimal,when you wrap meat in foil your suposed to put the shinny side in and all your pollishing is on the outside so I have no Idea what elvis is going on about.My whole eng has been buffed on the WR save for the valve cover as it's magnizum,I ony wet as far as you on the bolt on covers of the motor,the main cases,head and barrel just got clean back to a bit better than stock. When do we get to see the paint job?or do we have to waite for the BIG walla it's done photo? Thanks for the advice, I'll keep it in mind, when I get the painted parts back I'll put photos up along the way! Just taking a while at the mo! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
November 26, 201311 yr LMAO you dont mess around do you,a wee bit of over spray but sure you'll clean that up,nice you took the time to remove the things that would make it look like you sprayed it all together. For a clean up type rebuild/restore it's comming along quite nice. It's going to make some great before and after picts.
November 26, 201311 yr Author LMAO you dont mess around do you,a wee bit of over spray but sure you'll clean that up,nice you took the time to remove the things that would make it look like you sprayed it all together. For a clean up type rebuild/restore it's comming along quite nice. It's going to make some great before and after picts. Done better than I thought I would! First time I've actually spray painted anything, no runs, even all over, I'm quite happy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
November 26, 201311 yr Its coming along hen" i like the clutter free engine area, nice and simple . .
November 27, 201311 yr Very Good laura!! my only gripe is the bolts, lets all your hard work down IMO should really get shot of them and slap in some stainless bolts. But have a big pat on the back and a Jack D on me!
December 8, 201311 yr Author A little sneak peak of the colour shall post pics up later when it's all on the bike! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
December 8, 201311 yr I know it's a bit girly (colour) but for one I like it Laura, should look mint when you get it all sorted, well done.
December 8, 201311 yr Author It changes depending on the lighting sometimes it looks red, sometimes it looks purple and other times it's black !! Really pleased Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
December 8, 201311 yr Moderator Looks really good. Just be careful spraying in this weather, you really need to have dryer air to get the best finish.
December 8, 201311 yr Author It's been sat in a warm spray booth for the last few days so should be okay I hope!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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