Jump to content
This post is 3297 days old and we'd rather you create a new post instead of adding to this one. You can't reply in this post.

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ended up doing the fibreglassing in 2-parts (upper and lower) otherwise i wouldnt be able to get the blank back out, at some point during the first stage the blank collapsed slightly causing a bulge in one side, but nothing a bit of creative fibreglassing cant fix.

the lower part is now setting so hopefully by this time tomorrow i can get it mounted, cut my seat pan and foam cut to fit over the weekend, maybe if i can get some decent seat covering material i will look at gelcoating the new tail piece, mount the new tyres next week and finalise all the wiring. it didnt help that the cafe racered XZ i was looking at on google for reference was actually a photoshopped version as now i am struggling t find homes for all the electrical gubbins :(, regulator will be under the seat pan for sure though.

however, another problem has reared its head...

Linked up a mini moto fuel tank to get it started, when filled with fuel it just pissed out of the bottom of the carbs (overflow i think? they arent connected to anything), and then whilst turning over it wont fire but i am getting positive pressure coming back through the #2 carb :(, i can deal with flatslides but these downdraft ones are new territory to me, anyone care to hazard a guess at whats going wrong?

Do you want an ad-free experience? Join today and help support the Yamaha Owners Club.
Posted

Looking at a picture on ebay... it looks asthough the drain lines are actually balance lines or something of the sort? on mine they are just short lines coming from each of the carb bowls (one of them appears to have been plugged by the previous owner)

  • Moderator
Posted

possibly vacuum lines for the petrol tap?

Posted

Not sure how vac lines would have petrol in them though, without an exploded diagram i am completely lost on this one... :(

Posted

Tailpiece pics

[url=http://s57.photobucket.com/user/wild_foamy/media/DSC_0007_zps1861d500.jpg.html]DSC_0007_zps1861d500.jpg[/url

Still have some flash around the base which i need to trim back, but f*cking hell this stuff is hard when it has set!, have ordered a dremel to do the final trimming with, should have the lenses in for fitment by next week, still not 100% sure how i am going to retain them, was going to go for a individual bayonet types on the indicators, and a single plate which holds both the brake/stop lamps which when mounted up against the back of the unit holds the lenses in place.

currently working my way through another budweiser crate so that i can make some forms for my custom mudguard/battery box/electrical gubbins holder

  • Moderator
Posted

you should have glassed in some brackets for the lamps

Posted

there are no specific mounting points for the lamps as such though, they are just tapered with a lip on the rim of the glass, on the minis/landrovers they originally fitted into a rubber boot mounted externally with a chrome rim to retain them, but with this tail unit i want it to look as sleek and concealed as possible but still have access to the lamps and lenses for ease of maintanence

Posted

if your mounting them from the inside the only time you would need to remove them is if they were broken co's you'll have to remove lamps & holders first from the inside anyway as long as you can get to lamp holders there's no problem

i'd just silicone them in, using clear sillicone, you can always cut to the seal if you do need to get them out

Posted

Will try and draw up a diagram of what i mean, but basically like you say about removing the lamp holders first, the underside of the tailpiece is all open so i will have access to the tail lamps, and when installed these will squash the lenses inbetween the lampholders and the fibreglass :), so if the lenses do break its a 30 second job to change them

also, i took the carbs off to have a closer look... google didnt prove to be much help so with a lot of guess work i eventually found that the floats were dropping too low, which in turn caused the needles to drop too low and jam against the adjustable plate attached to the floats, i also noticed that the floats were catching on the side of the bowls when i removed them, after a closer look i found that the floats are contoured to fit the float bowl.... and they appeared to be in upside down. could this be why the bike was left to rot in a barn for so many years?.

anyway, i turned the floats around, set the height (again, mostly guesswork but just below the overflow), tested them and they no longer leak!, i even got the engine to fire on the #2 cylinder! (should probably check for spark on the #1 as it didnt seem to be doing much), very happy with how things are going right now :)

  • Moderator
Posted

cool foams, the PO always has a hand in the bikes demise. glad you found it

Posted

cool foams, the PO always has a hand in the bikes demise. glad you found it

WTF has the post office got to do with it ?

Posted

hey foams! hows it going, seems you've got a little side tracked on this one, will it still be ready for squires?

  • Moderator
Posted

WTF has the post office got to do with it ?

PO = Previous Owner

Posted

haha I worked that out 5 mins after I posted it, thanks drew

Posted

Its coming to squires, even if i have to drag it on a trailer behind the cage!.

I have the gelcoat ready for the fibreglass, got it running on both cylinders with the addition of some carb-cleaner in place of easy start, but didnt keep it running for more than a few seconds because its water cooled and none of the pipes are connected, really want to ditch that fuck ugly coolant bottle in place of a nice brushed stainless one.

Will be making a new mudguard tomorrow using the old one as a mould, going to have to change it slightly by removing all the mounts for the electrics (which are now under the seatpan itself) and adding in a slight recess for the 6ah battery.

Also my LED pilot lights have arrived, these will be going INSIDE the clocks aslong as i can get them open without marking them. the ignition switch will be somewhere behind my right knee.

will be swapping those bottom yokes over tomorrow as the XS top yokes kindly donated by Tommy werent an exact fit (the internet lied to me!) so i will be using the XS bottom yokes aswell, should bring the forks back towards the frame by about 5mm at the most

i can see now that this is a project i will never truly finish, there will always be something i could do better or will want to change about it. but thats all part of the fun :)

Also, whilst opening my cupboard to get some instant noodles last night i knocked one of the indicator lenses out, it hit me right on the eyebrow leaving a big blue lump and then smashed on the floor :( FUCKS SAKE!!!!

Posted

yeah, these yokes arent going to work :(.

need to find a set with 185mm centre-to-centre, 36mm stanchion holes and a 63mm offest.

oh well, im off to B&Q to get some flat steel to mount my pilot lights to, no way they will fit inside the clocks.

Posted

sorry to hear you've not solved the yoke problem foams, going to be tricky finding some to fit I think

Posted

hmm... could modify the old ones?... :eusa_think:

i need some thinking juice, im tapped out...

  • Moderator
Posted

sorry to hear you've not solved the yoke problem foams, going to be tricky finding some to fit I think

Aye, its no Yoke ..... I'll get me coat

Posted

hmm... could modify the old ones?... :eusa_think:

i need some thinking juice, im tapped out...

stay away from the ebay when you get the thinking juice topped up

×
×
  • Create New...