Moderator drewpy Posted February 3, 2013 Moderator Posted February 3, 2013 when I took out the bearings of the rear hub, i noticed that one of the bearings had a bit of Italian tin wrapped around it. This i believe is because the hub was too big for the bearing from the factory!! I can tell it hasn't spun as i can still see the cast markings and no signs of wear apart from reusing that bit of tin,along with bearing lock, has anyone else got any suggestions? things I have thought of; 1) Just bearing lock = too much gap 2) peen the alloy inside = won't get it central, can fail
Moderator Cynic Posted February 3, 2013 Moderator Posted February 3, 2013 Is there a bearing that would fit? With a tiny bit of machining.
Moderator Airhead Posted February 3, 2013 Moderator Posted February 3, 2013 cut a strip from an aluminium beer can
Moderator drewpy Posted February 3, 2013 Author Moderator Posted February 3, 2013 cut a strip from an aluminium beer can that's basically what the Italians did, I'll keep it as its got Italian writing on it too. Keep it "original"
neversaydie Posted February 3, 2013 Posted February 3, 2013 Next size bearing up with the same ID, hub machined out to suit the OD, might have to have depth increased atad to suit too
Moderator drewpy Posted February 3, 2013 Author Moderator Posted February 3, 2013 Next size bearing up with the same ID, hub machined out to suit the OD, might have to have depth increased atad to suit too not much meat in the hub as it shaped like a "tunnel"
Moderator mervin Posted February 4, 2013 Moderator Posted February 4, 2013 typical eytie crap, send it back under warranty
neversaydie Posted February 4, 2013 Posted February 4, 2013 Can you have a disc turned that just clamps onto the outer race, and is secured onto the hub with screws/bolts, with the tin can shim centralising the bearing?
nayruf Posted February 4, 2013 Posted February 4, 2013 I would have a look into getting the hub machined out and an interference fit machined liner made with an I/D that matches the O/D of the brg (perhaps from steel) then warm the hub and freeze fit the new liner, That is unless the cost is too prohibitive,
Moderator Airhead Posted February 4, 2013 Moderator Posted February 4, 2013 its a 5 bhp ped not a bonneville speed week contender...jeez whats wrong with the tin can ! 1
slice Posted February 4, 2013 Posted February 4, 2013 If your wheel bearing surface is knackered then why not try a replacement wheel, I mean how much would that cost as opposed to all this milling and clamps that have been suggested and as OG says what's wrong with the "original" Italian tin can if it ain't broke (well not much) don't fix it.
Moderator DirtyDT Posted February 4, 2013 Moderator Posted February 4, 2013 its a 5 bhp ped not a bonneville speed week contender...jeez whats wrong with the tin can ! Class.
2 Wheels Posted February 4, 2013 Posted February 4, 2013 Drewp's i had this very prob with "Mini Bike" rear wheel. I think it happened cause the rear axle wasnt tightened propperly,,,,,, the bearing was spinning in the hub and made it bigger,,,,,new propper size bearing i bought was loose. Anyway,,,, all the bearings have numbers stamped on them,,,,,all the numbers mean different things (as usual) So you can buy bearings that have the same internal diameter as yours but have a heavier outer diameter. One of the numbers stamped on bearing mean heavy or lighter outer diameter. Only thing is,,,, there isnt much of a difference between the two types,,,,,, so ya might have ta use your Italian tin yet !!!
Moderator drewpy Posted February 5, 2013 Author Moderator Posted February 5, 2013 Thanks Pat, I know about the international number standard its how I buy my bearings now, its much cheaper. I even buy oil seals that way too. 6201 is the the bearing number 12mm bore, 8mm depth and 32mm OD the next size up is 37mm OD
wild foamy Posted February 5, 2013 Posted February 5, 2013 depending what the gap is you could spin up a bush to sit between the hub and the bearing, or just use your italian tin with a bit of loctite, if it aint broke dont fix it right?
Speedshop Posted February 5, 2013 Posted February 5, 2013 you can get a hub on a decent size lathe. set it up off a disc brake mount or unfailed bearing housing,not the o/d of the rim.machine it to the next bearing size up, there are plenty of charts on the net regarding bearing sizes. do it properly then you won't be wondering if it's about to let go.
Moderator drewpy Posted February 5, 2013 Author Moderator Posted February 5, 2013 not enough meat to skim it. Its only about 3 - 4mm thick. they build these things light
2 Wheels Posted February 5, 2013 Posted February 5, 2013 Thanks Pat, I know about the international number standard its how I buy my bearings now, its much cheaper. I even buy oil seals that way too. 6201 is the the bearing number 12mm bore, 8mm depth and 32mm OD the next size up is 37mm OD If ya go away from the international number standard, ya can get different sizes,,,,,,, they prob arent as good a quality but there still a bearing. (just change it more often) 12mm ID, 34mm OD, 11mm depth. mabey 11mm is too thick for ya
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