Sacha Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 You can't go wrong with that outfit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted July 13, 2013 Share Posted July 13, 2013 Ok my son just suggested what about freeze it off, so how about nitrogen to blast freeze it? Or alot of heat your taking the whole eng appart and replacing every seal ect.. so what about put it in the oven it's still under pressure (cook it at 180 for 3-3.5 hrs untill golden moist and juicy LOL) then torch heat the armature, or shock it with cold water ,it's under alot of pressuer so It might just pop yet. Or well this might seem stupid but a old guy once told me this when working on a old farm tractor and it worked" water put the rust on so it will take it off" what he suggested was to put a garden hose on the part with the hose running at just a drip 2 days later and the bolts came loose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted July 13, 2013 Author Moderator Share Posted July 13, 2013 I had to pop to Homebase this morning and picked up a cheap mini grinder while I was there. After some (lots) of gardening I took the grinder to the armature. Although it is still stuck fast it has exposed a hole big enough to possibly get a bearing puller into. I have filled the hole with penetrating fluid and I will leave that overnight. I managed to get the puller out and I can now see why it sheared. It was hollow in the middle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted May 5, 2014 Author Moderator Share Posted May 5, 2014 While I am at it I would still welcome ideas on finally getting that armature off please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted May 5, 2014 Moderator Share Posted May 5, 2014 weld a piece of steel to it with a rod.18" ..itself welded into the steel, a big hollow weight, something welded onto the end ans slide hammer it off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neversaydie Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 Clarify not familiar with the set up, I see three parts, 1- the winding, 2- the central shaft, and 3- a metal sleeve that sits between 1 and 2, and waht looks like a keyway btween 2 and 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted May 5, 2014 Author Moderator Share Posted May 5, 2014 weld a piece of steel to it with a rod.18" ..itself welded into the steel, a big hollow weight, something welded onto the end ans slide hammer it off I think that is the way to go Paul. I have a slide hammer so just a case of getting something threaded into the hole. I could tap it. Clarify not familiar with the set up, I see three parts, 1- the winding, 2- the central shaft, and 3- a metal sleeve that sits between 1 and 2, and waht looks like a keyway btween 2 and 3 It is all one unit. It is a solid steel core which is on the end of the crank. Originally it had a threaded end (as per your picture) but even after I put a specially made puller on it, the puller just snapped in the hold so I cut the end off in frustration. Now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted May 5, 2014 Moderator Share Posted May 5, 2014 can you soak the whole thing in diesel for a few weeks? the oil can get into places and then you slide hammer it off or go for more kinetic/heat methods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 I would take a piece of pipe and weld a nut inside it with the same thread of you slide hammer,then weld pipe to stator.The heat from welding the pipe on will shock it,as most of the heat will be in the stator and not the crank. But soaking it for a few days as drewps said wont hurt either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted May 6, 2014 Moderator Share Posted May 6, 2014 If you know what and where the crank is in there I would just keep going with the electric spanner. Its already long past fct so why piss about. Cut the windings off then cut the sleeve. The heat should do the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sniff6 Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Oh dear you have gone too far now,Looking like lots of new shiny parts from here on in mate.It should make a lovely little bike when its finished. What are your plans for it .Sell or are you keeping it?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted May 8, 2014 Author Moderator Share Posted May 8, 2014 Thanks guys, so seals a nut, soak in diesel or carry on with the brute strength and ignorance. I think the first thing I am going to try is to cut a thread in the existing hole and try and use a bolt as puller. Oh dear you have gone too far now,Looking like lots of new shiny parts from here on in mate.It should make a lovely little bike when its finished. What are your plans for it .Sell or are you keeping it?? Most parts are available even if some I will need to wait for. I haven't been able to find a good exhaust - yet! I like buying parts, almost as good as fitting them. The plan is to keep it once finished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 The more I look at your delima I wonder,have you been trying to remove this the right way,why is the key way that far out if it's not part of the crank? The hole might have been threaded to install the windings not for removing it,or do you have a manual that says to remove it that way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted May 8, 2014 Author Moderator Share Posted May 8, 2014 The manual says use the puller, tap and it's off! Obviously 50 years of being "on" changes that. If you go back to page 2, post 48 you can see the set up prior to me getting to this point. The stator coil not only provides the electrics but acts as part of the electric start - electric start, 12v system and autolube all on a 50 year old bike, who would have thought that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Ya i have been following,I am just having trouble wraping my head around how the entire thing spins with the crank to operat the points yet is not part of the crank,if it's keyed to the crank.What holds it on? if the points cam threads in the same hole that is used to pull it off,if the cam is just held in place by the threads then it must be part of the crank,surly they must have some way other than just press fitting it on to hold it in place and the only thing I see is the points cam bolt to keep it on the crank?And if it is a press fit then how do you press it on without some threads in the crank to attach a press tool to? I gues once you have it appart it might make sence.I know I would have had the torches out by now and just cut whats left off or the other method I said ealier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted May 8, 2014 Author Moderator Share Posted May 8, 2014 The generator coil is a press fit on the end of the crank. The governor is held in place with a long bolt which screws into the end of the crank. The Generator coil has had a thread which takes the removal tool and this is wider than the bolt that goes through to the crank holding the governor. The whole generator assembly is held on to the crankcase with 2 bolts and this is held in a static position with the generator coil spinning on the end of the crank and the governor - which has a cam shape actuates the points. The governor has a retard/advance weight mechanism similar to old school cars. The generator with governor removed and the end of the coil can be seen in the middle of the hole. This remains in a static position, the copper coil spins inside. The crank The Genni. 1 - spins 2 - is static 29 - is the cam, weighted governor which operates the points 31 - is the bolt that holds on the governor through the coil (not attaching to it) and threaded into the end of the crank. Because it is cam shaped it opens and closes the points. It does not slip as it is aligned to a small lip on the end of the generator coil (1). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum122 Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Very interesting project. Something of this age...gotta be worth a fortune if restored. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted May 8, 2014 Author Moderator Share Posted May 8, 2014 Quite the opposite. I would guess about £1500 restored at present prices. It's not about the money, money money.................................. I only brought it because it was local and cheap. It looks funky though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Thanks for explaning it, I fully understand points and mechanical advance,but some may not. So if the last bit showing is the crank in the center then heat it up around that with the torches and it will pop free,as it's a taper fit now that I can see how it's assembled, as the heat is transfered to the windings it will expand faster than the crank esp because copper is a better conductor of heat than steel the heat will transfer to the steel sleve holding it in place.Have ice cold water on hand and quench it the rapid heat loss will shock it and snap it free. I have used that method many times but you need real torches OXY /Acc not pidily propane so you can heat the windings rapidly without heating the crank to much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neversaydie Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Is item 1 threaded down the centre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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