Moderator DirtyDT Posted April 14, 2013 Author Moderator Share Posted April 14, 2013 Hi Paul, I did this with the L/H one that wouldn't budge. Drilled the head off fine. That allowed me to remove the case cover. Heat gun and plusgas on the remaining stud. Put a stud remover on it and the cheese bolt just sheared. Left about 10mm proud of the case so if I cant get anything on this, I will cut it flush and drill it out. Just thinking, it must be your Birthday soon mate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted April 14, 2013 Moderator Share Posted April 14, 2013 Hi Paul, I did this with the L/H one that wouldn't budge. Drilled the head off fine. That allowed me to remove the case cover. Heat gun and plusgas on the remaining stud. Put a stud remover on it and the cheese bolt just sheared. Left about 10mm proud of the case so if I cant get anything on this, I will cut it flush and drill it out. Just thinking, it must be your Birthday soon mate! Numan only as a very last resort would I drill out the stud, even 10mm is enough to get a hold of you may have to put a similar 6mm stud just at the edge of the other side of the vise grip it will keep the jaws parallel so they stay on the stud, failing this maybe weld a nut to what remains...heat is the key, and a rocking motion one way then the other usually works but always reversing the direction when it begins to tighten...strangely enough the first direction to find some 'give' is often the clockwise direction because the screw wont be bottomed in the hole, the amount of free movement will gradually increase...I have done this countless times myself it almost always ends in success,.................. drilling steel from ally is fraught with danger! apologies if im telling you how to suck eggs mate as to my birthday, well remembered it was yesterday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bippo Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 as to my birthday, well remembered mate it was yesterday Happy belated birthday! Good weather yesterday, hope you got out for a ride. :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted April 14, 2013 Moderator Share Posted April 14, 2013 Thanks bippo, didnt get out on the bike though I may have a minor problem with the DT and it pecks at my head a bit! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted April 14, 2013 Author Moderator Share Posted April 14, 2013 Numan only as a very last resort would I drill out the stud, even 10mm is enough to get a hold of you may have to put a similar 6mm stud just at the edge of the other side of the vise grip it will keep the jaws parallel so they stay on the stud, failing this maybe weld a nut to what remains...heat is the key, and a rocking motion one way then the other usually works but always reversing the direction when it begins to tighten...strangely enough the first direction to find some 'give' is often the clockwise direction because the screw wont be bottomed in the hole, the amount of free movement will gradually increase...I have done this countless times myself it almost always ends in success,.................. drilling steel from ally is fraught with danger! apologies if im telling you how to suck eggs mate as to my birthday, well remembered it was yesterday Happy Birthday mate. Thanks for the phone call. I will try the method and let you know what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retro bike Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 This is my YA6 that I got it last year. It is a rare bike in Thailand.. Now, I got some problem on wiring diagram.. No reference in the Net. Could anyone suggest me where I can get it. I will post Before and After of my bike to share it **** how to post the picture **** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted April 16, 2013 Author Moderator Share Posted April 16, 2013 This is my YA6 that I got it last year. It is a rare bike in Thailand.. Now, I got some problem on wiring diagram.. No reference in the Net. Could anyone suggest me where I can get it. I will post Before and After of my bike to share it **** how to post the picture **** What would you like to know about the wiring? I have never found a readable diagram on the net either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted April 17, 2013 Author Moderator Share Posted April 17, 2013 Got the cases off. Hacksawed a slot when required and beat the screws with the impact and a large hammer. Tried all the screw suggestions but nothing has worked yet. Looks like I will be getting the drill out. Had a look at the generator. After a few horror stories I knew mine would be easy - yeh right. Anyway, Cam cover off like this Remove the cam and screw Undid the 2 bolts that hold the generator on. Careful of the right one as there is a thin wire near the the bolt that can easily break. A couple of soft taps with a rubber mallet ans a flat driver under it. Armature exposed Now I would like to show you a picture without the armature attached but I can't. The bl00dy thing will not shift. As per a post I put elsewhere, removing this is purely down to the right tools, the hope that no one has messed with it and luck. These are pushed on with a woodruff key to stop them from spinning. Mine has been on for about 48 years. It the central hole there is a part thread (about 20mm deep) before it goes to nothing and then hits the end of the crank. The thread is a M8 P1.25 but most bolts of that size are too out of tolerance to get a decent fit. The wobble in the thread and pulling on them will ruin the thread. There is a special tool and I have contacted someone who may be able to make me a tool of the right material. I have tried using a block of wood each side of the armature and a metal bar across the block - nothing moved. I have tried attaching a puller (arrived today) - nothing. If I don't get any joy from the guy I contacted I will possibly drill the center hole and thread it to a M10 (It shouldn't make any difference to fit of anything but might give me a better thread to work with) or cut the thing of. I can get a NOS one for about £100 assuming I get caught for import duty so, although I don't want to waste this part or take on the additional cost, but these are available so I am not too fussed about breaking it if I have to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted April 18, 2013 Author Moderator Share Posted April 18, 2013 I have been in contact with a guy called Lex from Swarfrat http://swarfrat.com/MotorcycleTools.htm about the armature puller tool. I have had some great information from him. He plans to manufacture a prototype which, once proven, will be available from his site. He is in the market to manufacture this type of special tools so if you have a similar issue or need a one off of something similar, make contact with him to see what he can do. He did point out that he was surprised that I thought the thread was an M8 as his experience said that was too narrow. He was spot on and I guess that is the reason many people ruin the threads on these which means that the only way of getting them off is to cut them off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhat250 Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 What was it " M10.?. The kwaker triple puller has an M10 bolt with a long probe welded on,, looks like a heater plug for a deisel.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted April 19, 2013 Author Moderator Share Posted April 19, 2013 It isn't an M10 as this is too large. Some of the little Yams do have M10 sized Armatures but communication with Lex yesterday showed how bin parts these bikes were as they seem to come up differently. I will wait for the puller from Lex and it that doesn't work due to the armature thread being knackered, I was thinking about drilling it and tapping it to a M10. The depths are 2 inches from the armature to the crank and 2 7/8 inches from the armature to the bottom of the hole in the crank. So if the Kwacker bolt is longer than 3 inches including the "probe" and the "probe" is longer than an inch and I drill and tap it to M10, it might be something I could try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Cynic Posted April 19, 2013 Moderator Share Posted April 19, 2013 It always intreasts me looking at pictures of bikes that are older but from the same "mind" if you like. Looking at the pictures of your engine you can see the basics of the later bikes appearing. Subtleties like the neutral switch being by the chain. Later its moved out to the cleaner area on top. The lack of ribs and extra metal used in the cases. Bigger seals which are much smaller on later bikes. It facinates me. Sorry i will get my anorak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted April 19, 2013 Author Moderator Share Posted April 19, 2013 Its true. It also shows the start of going from over engineering to under engineering. The frame is like armour plating. It has the same crank bearings as some of the DT175's and RD200 and yet the bolts are made of the worst cheese type metal. When I have used the impact driver on them, the heads have kinked and some of the bolt shafts have bent. Mind you I did learn my hammering technique from Thor! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted April 19, 2013 Moderator Share Posted April 19, 2013 ...............and yet the bolts are made of the worst cheese type metal. When I have used the impact driver on them, the heads have kinked and some of the bolt shafts have bent. Mind you I did learn my hammering technique from Thor! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted April 24, 2013 Author Moderator Share Posted April 24, 2013 The armature puller should be on its way soon thanks to Lex at swarfrat. I plan to do a bit on the bike next week so watch this space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted April 30, 2013 Author Moderator Share Posted April 30, 2013 Ok. Lex sent me 2 armature pullers from the States. One 9mm and one 10mm. I was very impressed with the quality. The 10mm was way to big but the 9mm fitted in the thread, albeit a little tight. Threaded it down until I could feel that the probe had touched the bottom of the hole in the crank. A light tap with a hammer did nothing so I decided to tighten it to pop of the armature. Gave it another quarter turn and........... It sheared the puller. the thread has held tight though and I would have expected the thread to have stripped first. I have put this down to the fact that the armature is solid on the crank after sitting there for nearly 50 years. I think that the puller would have worked if the armature had been removed during it's lifetime. Once I get another armature I think I will go for another puller from Lex and have sent him an email with my findings. So now I have an armature with the sheared puller in it. I can't be ar5ed to try and drill it out so I intend to cut the armature off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Well that suks,guess who ever hardened it only case harden it. Instead of cutting it off ,now that it's under pressure what about soaking it with a good penatrating fuild for a couple of days,heat it and go at it againg with trying to shock it off,with a couple of good hard blows on whats left of the puller.Even if it only moves enought to release the tension on the puller so it spins back out then you could use another puller to finnish the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Airhead Posted April 30, 2013 Moderator Share Posted April 30, 2013 Well that suks,guess who ever hardened it only case harden it. Instead of cutting it off ,now that it's under pressure what about soaking it with a good penatrating fuild for a couple of days,heat it and go at it againg with trying to shock it off,with a couple of good hard blows on whats left of the puller.Even if it only moves enought to release the tension on the puller so it spins back out then you could use another puller to finnish the job. +1 with that Numan, The usual thing is to tighten these things sympathetically until the point they stop turning...then clout the end with a heavy hammer...you are already tight so its worth a try before resorting to the destructive route eh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted April 30, 2013 Author Moderator Share Posted April 30, 2013 Cheers for the advice guys but I don't want to risk damaging anything else. Sometimes I just have to destroy things so I have decided to cut it off. I can get a NOS one so that is now going to be my route. I will leave it for a while as I need to have a tinker with the TS and there is still the front end to strip. Everything else has come off very easily, the swingarm bolt came out without any fuss. The only things so far that are giving me grief are the 2 rear swingarm top brackets. These are pressed on to the frame and there isn't anything to get any purchase on. I could leave them on when I paint and just clean them. Angle grinder time. Here is one I ground earlier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted July 12, 2013 Author Moderator Share Posted July 12, 2013 Well there has been no real movement on the YA-6 recently. I have been um'ing and ar'ing about working on the RD400. I have decided that since I have already started the YA I am going to finish it first. The plan is to work on the engine and frame as 2 separate semi projects. As I wait for parts for one, I can get on with bits on the other. I am still struggling to get the armature off. I tried to drill out the snapped puller but it is tough work. so I drilled a pilot hole in it with a view to tap it and fabricate a puller using a bolt in the new thread. This didn't quite go to plan as the tap snapped in the hole. I think the only way to get this off now is with an angle grinder. Once purchased I intend to wrap the case up with cloth and wood and then get to grips with it. More photos of the frame strip to follow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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