May 26, 201410 yr I can tell you that the wire is a feed and get's opened when the switches are not working together,if the netural switch is grounde alone then current still flows,if the side stand switch is grounded alone then the current flow stops. Using your multy meter set in the ohms position you can check your side stand switch and netural switch. also I do belive that if you leave it disconnected (blue/yellow ) than the tci sees nothing and will fire the plugs. If you had pm'd me the 2 wireing diagrams I could have helped a long time ago,but if the xj and fj use different methods to side stand ie 1 is normal open and the other is normaly closed in the down position then.... well it wont work . As the rest of the wiring to the motor alone is plug and go I think you have found your problem.
May 26, 201410 yr Author Moderator I can tell you that the wire is a feed and get's opened when the switches are not working together,if the netural switch is grounde alone then current still flows,if the side stand switch is grounded alone then the current flow stops. Using your multy meter set in the ohms position you can check your side stand switch and netural switch. also I do belive that if you leave it disconnected (blue/yellow ) than the tci sees nothing and will fire the plugs. If you had pm'd me the 2 wireing diagrams I could have helped a long time ago,but if the xj and fj use different methods to side stand ie 1 is normal open and the other is normaly closed in the down position then.... well it wont work . As the rest of the wiring to the motor alone is plug and go I think you have found your problem. I'll try it disconnected although the guy who ran this XJ told me it was to ground.
May 31, 201410 yr Author Moderator nothing yet, working ATM, hopefully I can get something done tomorrow
June 6, 201410 yr PS I also asked a friend to look and see if he has both wireing diagrams but he thinks he only has a fz I need both to see what the difference is cant be much but definatly something is different in the saftey switches,has to be the problem. Edit: try un pluging each saftey switch wires 1 at a time and leave them open and then try joing them,or any combination of open and closed,,eg stand switch closed with netural and clutch sw, kill sw open. It cant hurt anything as they do open and close as requested to do so,, so you cant do any dammage.
June 6, 201410 yr Author Moderator cheers DT I got your message and replied. the safeties have been bypassed by having the yellow/blue going directly to earth! (ground) from the TCI box
June 16, 201410 yr Author Moderator well i just won some Dyna coils on the bay. lets see what happens
July 13, 201410 yr Author Moderator nothing, nada, no spark! rewired it separately from the loom, have power pulses from pickup, 12v off separate battery (common earth to frame for coils), dyna coils, fuck all
July 14, 201410 yr Moderator If the coils are getting power and you have changed the coils. I think there is only 2 reasons why you can't get a spark. 1) there is still an earthing or safety switch working sucking power out of the coils 2) there is not enough juice going to the coils to get them to create the spark If it sparked and didn't run, then it could be timing but that doesn't seem to be the case. Are the coils earthed only to the frame or are they also wired on the earth side?
July 14, 201410 yr Author Moderator If the coils are getting power and you have changed the coils. I think there is only 2 reasons why you can't get a spark. 1) there is still an earthing or safety switch working sucking power out of the coils 2) there is not enough juice going to the coils to get them to create the spark If it sparked and didn't run, then it could be timing but that doesn't seem to be the case. Are the coils earthed only to the frame or are they also wired on the earth side? coils are earthed to frame and separate wires to 12v and ignitor. Next I'll try a manual fire of coils
July 15, 201410 yr Just a curious trial and error test, could you slightly un bolt the coils and place a long bit of wire between the coil and frame, bolt the coil back down wedging the wire in between the frame and coil, then connect the other end of the wire to the negative on the battery. This worked on my step dads harley and confirmed that he had a bad earth on the coil to frame jobber.
July 16, 201410 yr Moderator Just a curious trial and error test, could you slightly un bolt the coils and place a long bit of wire between the coil and frame, bolt the coil back down wedging the wire in between the frame and coil, then connect the other end of the wire to the negative on the battery. This worked on my step dads harley and confirmed that he had a bad earth on the coil to frame jobber.Sounds like a good plan. If you already have a direct earth to the CDI and put in a direct earth from the coils (both direct to the battery), why not put a third in to the earth on the pulse coil area and engine in case something is not allowing the engine to earth back to the battery correctly?
July 16, 201410 yr Author Moderator well that didn't work wonder if 0.4 to 0.5 AC volts from trigger coil is correct?
July 16, 201410 yr Feck me what a suborn unt,gereraly speaking most puter's work on a 5v reference signal for cam or crank sensors and looks for a small varrience in the voltage.As the pick up only has a very short time to gererate any voltage,it just a pulse magnetic generator,what is the voltage to the pick ups. And to recap everything including the wireing to the pick ups has been run seperatly right? And with that the yello/blue wire has been grounded and not grounded even thought the wireing diagram shows it grounded through the clutch saftey. New pick ups installed? Coils and TCI have been confirmed to work on another bike? Because I am out of ideas.
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