dt502001 Posted August 29, 2012 Share Posted August 29, 2012 I'm sorry i didn't check you progress sooner and the tank is probaly paited now I would have sugested to put drywall screws it the tank and put its on a bbq rotisary over night before sealing it's the best way I have found to get all the rust out.Make sur you cas cap has a realy good seal otherwise gas will get under the paint and lift it.If yours is buggered find one from a car cap thats the only way I have found to replace the seal as yam doesn't sell them seperatly and want a lot for new cap if they still have them. cant wait to see the paint job bet it will look better than new The fork lowers I would not paint them as noted befor just sand them up and polish and a good waxing I do all mine that way once a year is all it realy takes to get them looking like new or if you want you can get a buffing pad to fit on a bench grinder or drill and compound and polish them up like a mirror i did my swing arm and all the removable eng covers on my WR last winter and I just use auto solve to keep them up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted September 1, 2012 Author Share Posted September 1, 2012 Apologies for the delay in my response. As usual, things have been hectic. I haven't painted the tank yet, and I'm still undecided on whether to seal it. Some folks say you should, others say it's just a pain in the ass because it may break down, and that as long as you have gas it shouldn't rust. I've also heard people say that if the tank isn't sealed it can cause the paint to bubble. ?? Mike said that shouldn't be the case - it wasn't sealed before and the paint was fine (that is until it sat out in the elements for 10 years). I've started polishing the fork sliders... one of them is nearly done, and I'm going to work on the other one after posting this. Mike's going to clear coat them for me so they have some protection. Dropped the fork tubes off for hard chroming this afternoon. Here's hoping he doesn't want a fortune. What's the going rate? I can get new ones made for around $300 from Forks by Frank, but I'm not sure how much I should expect. I'm not expecting it to be cheap. I know you get what you pay for and I don't expect that the work is easy. I also don't want to get taken. Mike got the frame and other black bits painted... tried to prime the front fender, but the old paint reacted with it and it bubbled up so I've had to sand it down again. Hoping to have all the silver bits painted this weekend. But I have family coming this weekend so I don't know that I'll get much else done besides drunken revelry. Hope Squires is treating you lot (who could make it) well... although it sounds downright chilly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 If the fender had ever been coated with tremclad silver or aluminum it will need to be striped to bear mettal.Tremclad and a few other brands of paint no matter how well sanded and primed will reeact, if it went all aligator skin like then it's been painted with Tremclad. I painted a frame 1 time with it and then a couple of years later wanted to paint it black what a fn mess just glad I had lots of thinner to whipe off the black before it hardened. I had to sand blast the frame and even in some spots the black still reacted with the first coat. as for the tank as long as you can get the rust out no real need to seal it unless it leaks,fill it with gas and leave it for a day or 2 and see if it has any pin holes it should lift the primer or bubble it , better to have to re prime it than repaint. I don't like clear coat on forks it goes yellow get chiped/scratched imo wax is the best protection and the easiest to keep the polish up once they are cleaned up dosen't take much effort to repolish them every year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted September 4, 2012 Author Share Posted September 4, 2012 What kind of wax do you use DT502001? I finished polishing the fork sliders. The tubes are at the shop and it's going to be $80/tube for the hard-chroming... and he said he should have them done in 3 days. I won't hold my breath, but the guy was real nice. Got the front fender all sanded down and primed last night. Didn't look like it was reacting when we left it and Mike said it turned out good... I haven't seen it yet, but I'll take his word. Looks like we should get the silver bits done this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 I use Mothers California Gold pure carnauba 3 step wax system setp 1 is a cleaner to remove old wax step 2 is the wax 3 is a glaze makes your paint look deeper and the best wax i have ever found. I wax everything handelbars wheels frame eng ect save for the brake discs and the seat. Meguires metal restor to polish up the shiney metal bits. then just the wax. I think 160 for the chrome is a good price well at least its 1/2 of buying new. at this rate you should have the bike back rolling in no time. Have you started on the motor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted September 5, 2012 Moderator Share Posted September 5, 2012 ..................I finished polishing the fork sliders. The tubes are at the shop and it's going to be $80/tube for the hard-chroming... and he said he should have them done in 3 days. I won't hold my breath, but the guy was real nice. ................... Cheap compared with "ripoff UK" Sacha. and a good turnaround time. I think it runs at about 5 weeks here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 ...Have you started on the motor? Not started on the motor yet. Trying to get the chassis ready first. Need to get started on the wheels and brakes this weekend too. Probably should've tackled the motor first. ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 Cheap compared with "ripoff UK" Sacha. and a good turnaround time. I think it runs at about 5 weeks here! How much does it cost there? I hope it's a good job. Sounds like he knows his sh*t. We'll see how fast he has them done. Business is fairly slow for him though so I may actually have them this weekend. *fingers crossed* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted September 5, 2012 Moderator Share Posted September 5, 2012 About $248 assuming the forks have been pre-stripped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 About $248 assuming the forks have been pre-stripped. Wow! I lucked out... as long as it's quality work. They're my only local option anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 Motor first or frame first doesn't realy matter I just do one or the other to keep the parts from piling up all over the place. It's always nice to see 1 part of the project done helps keep the motivation up. As well your hubby can get the paint on quick and in a nice down draft booth. So you will have something prety to look at while doing the motor. Are you striping the wheels and respokeing them ? they looked prety good in the pics. About $248 assuming the forks have been pre-stripped. Wow what a ripoff As Sacha noted new from forking by frank is only 50 bucks more and his forks are good quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 ...Are you striping the wheels and respokeing them ? they looked prety good in the pics. Well, I thought I'd see how they clean up first, check for any rust inside and out, and get the runout checked. I'm no wheelwright so i dont know about respoking them myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 After removing the tires Well, I thought I'd see how they clean up first, check for any rust inside and out, and get the runout checked. I'm no wheelwright so i dont know about respoking them myself. Its easy to check run out if you have a dial indicator or access to one. Just fix the wheel in a solid position with the axel as the rotating piont so it cant move any way but around in a circle and put the dial indicator against the rim at the outer edge and slowly rotate watching the dial. Then to the top of the rim. But the realy easy way is just spin and watch with your eyes if they look good ,no up down or side to side, and tap the spokes if you get a thud instead of a sort of ting then it might be loose, but every spoke sounds slightly different never all the same. Tap and wiggle them if they feeel tight then all is good. You will find some rust on the inside as the spokes let water in so a good wire brushing should clean it all up then a good coat of paint to stop the rust, I'm sure the hubby can suggest something he can get from work free left over from another job or rubberised undercoating. I like to put a thin coat of grease on the Nippels before installing the rubber band that protects the tube from the spoke nippels(lol I keep saying Nippels LMFAO). As far as respokeing yourself probably not the best idea unless you have TONS of paicents as the spokes are different sizes and go in different directions. I can do it but not if anyone is watching or wants it done fast as thats impossible for me. I have spent a whole day just trueing a wheel only to start over because I got the off set wrong. And so may companys sell a pair of whole rims with hubs, tires, brake rotors and sprockets for 1200.00 after you add up all the cost of parts it's just not worth the hassel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 O ps SOS pads work great to clean up the spokes and then wax pain in the ass but works to stop the rust. Or have the hubby clear the rim/spokes won't look great in a few years but could keep the cost down for now. And save few more bucks for the eng rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 ...lol I keep saying Nippels LMFAO... LMAO. The old timers used to gimme quite the looks when I'd say that, or tit, or dikes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackhat250 Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 Here you go shash" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted September 8, 2012 Author Share Posted September 8, 2012 Here you go shash" Interesting. He makes it look fairly easy, but I'm sure it takes some patience. I wouldn't mind trying my hand at it, but probably on a junk wheel. ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted September 17, 2012 Author Share Posted September 17, 2012 Alright... update... I haven't given up yet, but I still haven't got jack sh*t done. Well, it doesn't seem like I have, but things are actually starting to come together... er, the pieces are coming... they just aren't getting put together. Got these last week... (lovely job by Rayco plating, and was $150 instead of $160, done within one week... I know, no one likes a braggart ) And Mike clear-coated my polished fork sliders for me... So I thought I'd tackle the steering head bearings, swing arm, and forks this weekend... wow, am I delusional or what? Well... the steering head is back together (after some much-needed help from Andy), haven't managed to remove the old fork seals, and didn't even touch the swing arm. Que sera right? I'd rather do it well and take my time than rush it and either have to make time to do it again the right way or seriously hurt myself. Til next time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dt502001 Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 Slow and steady is the best way to go. as long as it's gettin done right how long it takes is irrelevant The fork seals will pop out quite easy with a long pry bar after poping out the circlip. Keep at it and good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted September 17, 2012 Author Share Posted September 17, 2012 Slow and steady is the best way to go. as long as it's gettin done right how long it takes is irrelevant Indeed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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