beef Posted July 28, 2012 Posted July 28, 2012 depends on what parts, i painted the frame on my old chop, and matched it to my tank and mudguards, but it did chip in a couple of places over the couple of year before i repainted it. and then peeled so i went powder coating this time. powder coating it hard wearing but any damage you do get cannot be touched up as can with paint. but paint can easily be damaged. paint or powder coating.... personal choice based on your budget and choice of colours, as well as the parts to be done.
Sacha Posted August 4, 2012 Author Posted August 4, 2012 Well, here I am asking for help (again). After a serious battle with the screws I finally managed to remove the fuel valve from the tank. But it looks like a piece is missing from it. It's strange because it wasn't anywhere in the tank. I"m not sure what happened to it. Mine looks like this and a replacement one looks like this So am I crazy or am I going to need the replacement? Well, I'm probably crazy. I feel terrible... I'm no help at all for anyone here, but always needing help. Sorry. It doesn't seem like I've made much progress lately, but I have got things ready for the sandblaster, just waiting on him and then I can at least get the bulk of the frame parts painted and reassembled. Then I'll just have the shocks, wheels, brakes, forks, and engine to tackle. (not a tall order at all... ha!)
nayruf Posted August 4, 2012 Posted August 4, 2012 Hi Sacha My DTs fuel tap is also like the second one, the lower opening is for the reserve so it is prudent to have a filter on it although if you don't run down to reserve you may never notice any debris that is there, until it comes to needing to use reserve, I cannot remember if there is a filter in the screw off outlet bowl, but if I was going to use the older tap I would just put an inline filter in the fuel line probably one where I could see how clean the fuel is. I do recall that my original DT that I had in 1978 also did not have a reserve tube filter either, Aj
Moderator DirtyDT Posted August 4, 2012 Moderator Posted August 4, 2012 Could have been fitted without the reserve filter. They are easy to lose. They just keep any crud from the bottom of your tank getting into the carb and blocking the jets. My personal preference is to always run an inline fuel line filter - even if the filter tube is present. It saves a lot of messing getting the carb off and the jets out. LINKY
Sacha Posted August 4, 2012 Author Posted August 4, 2012 Awesome. Thank you both! I guess I should've asked what the missing part was for in the first place. thanks for the link too... one of those filters looks exactly like the one I have on the G7S.
jim*jimbo Posted August 6, 2012 Posted August 6, 2012 Hi Sacha, recommend white spirit to clean out your oil tank - no smokin! Fork legs - got the same problem with my TY. You really need to replace or have them hard chromed as already suggested. New fork oil - 10, 20 or 30w depending on the weight of the rider (30w is pretty thick so gives the most damping effect) and seals at the same time. I've tried to get new legs but no longer available for the TY so I'm looking at around £150 to have them re chromed - the other guys have already given me contacts in the UK. The original yamaha chrome was not the best and rechroming will result in a superior quality. Your forks lowers are the same as mine. I want to keep them as near original as possible so I'll probably buff and re laquer. Painting them is the easiest solution - perhaps silver with a clear lacquer to finish. Another possible option is a bike breaker - It might be cheaper to replace the entire front end - forks, wheel and mud guard - may even get a disc brake upgade. If you go down this route take one of your fork legs along with you to ensure they match in diameter and length - motorcross forks can be a lot longer and it would make your DT look like a chopper and handle badly. In the UK this would count as modifying the bike from an insurance standpoint so check this out first. Guys - feel free to comment on this option - good or bad? Keep the Q's coming Sacha Jim.
Moderator DirtyDT Posted August 6, 2012 Moderator Posted August 6, 2012 ......................Your forks lowers are the same as mine. I want to keep them as near original as possible so I'll probably buff and re laquer. Painting them is the easiest solution - perhaps silver with a clear lacquer to finish........... Fork lowers; Prepare as per my earlier post. A few coats of Hammerite silver direct to paint smooth Job done Excuse the rain drops.
jim*jimbo Posted August 7, 2012 Posted August 7, 2012 Hey Dirty, they look really good - tempted to do the same to my forks! Cheers Jim. p.s. do you hold the record for the most number of posts?
Sacha Posted August 7, 2012 Author Posted August 7, 2012 Yes those do look good DirtyDT. Looks like that's what I'll be doing. My rubber cover pieces are buggered though. All of the rubber is just so brittle.
Moderator DirtyDT Posted August 7, 2012 Moderator Posted August 7, 2012 Hey Dirty, they look really good - tempted to do the same to my forks! Cheers Jim. p.s. do you hold the record for the most number of posts? Nooooo. On the home page look at the bottom right for links to that kind of stat. Yes those do look good DirtyDT. Looks like that's what I'll be doing. My rubber cover pieces are buggered though. All of the rubber is just so brittle. So were mine Sacha. £20 worth of new rubber from the good ol USA. The silver goes on really easily by the way.
Sacha Posted August 8, 2012 Author Posted August 8, 2012 The silver goes on really easily by the way. Is it just the silver grey Hammerite? Glad the dust seals are still available. Going to see how the uppers clean up and talk to the motocross shop guys about where to get them hard chromed. All my bits and pieces should be sandblasted tomorrow. (yay!) Then I can move to the hard part of reassembly. woo-hoo I'm excited (can you tell?)
Noise Posted August 8, 2012 Posted August 8, 2012 Looking good Sacha! i actually didn't know you had a project thread ha-ha shows how much i look on the site!
beef Posted August 8, 2012 Posted August 8, 2012 you can get the fork lowers powder coated in silver. they do other colours than black you know. when i come to do the fork lowers on the xs i think i will have the powdered in silver, as the are already silver. what i do is strip it all down and then get all the parts blasted and cleaned. then gather up all the parts on the floor/bench and then work my way through and decide paint or powder and put in relevant pile. then take all the bits to the powder coaters at once, discuss what i want and get the price then leave them with them ready for them to work thier magic. i do it in one go as then i get it all back together and there is a better chance of it all getting done together in one shoot and blast session and above all, get a better price
Moderator DirtyDT Posted August 8, 2012 Moderator Posted August 8, 2012 Noooooo sacha. Hammerite is a brand name. Don't get hammer finish as this is a ripple finish and you need smooth finish. I don't think it is exported to the us. Have a look at www.thepaintstore.com and search for hammerite rust cap smooth enamel aluminium. Remember smooth Www.tcpglobal.com and search for hammerite. The product number is ham42205 this looks the same but down to you. I am sure that someone from the uk would send you a tin if you were after the exact stuff i brought.
Sacha Posted August 8, 2012 Author Posted August 8, 2012 Thanks DT! I am glad I didn't get it. hubby thinks the color and clear coat is the best way to go and since I've done similar to Beef and have gathered all the bits for one go at the blaster I think I'll just have Mike paint everything the appropriate colors.
Moderator Airhead Posted August 9, 2012 Moderator Posted August 9, 2012 you can get the fork lowers powder coated in silver. they do other colours than black you know. when i come to do the fork lowers on the xs i think i will have the powdered in silver, as the are already silver. ........... Paint is far superior to powder coating though and can be re-touched easily, front fork lowers?...yeah pretty vulnerable to chips! also there are different shades of silver available in paint form Having said all this Sacha, on your particular boke the forks were laft in a brushed bare aluminium finish from the factory...If it were me I'd do likewise and leave all this painting of the forks alone, you can make a real nice job of those lowers with some wet/dry and scotchbrite
nayruf Posted August 9, 2012 Posted August 9, 2012 Having said all this Sacha, on your particular boke the forks were laft in a brushed bare aluminium finish from the factory...If it were me I'd do likewise and leave all this painting of the forks alone, you can make a real nice job of those lowers with some wet/dry and scotchbrite Paint is far superior to powder coating though and can be re-touched easily, front fork lowers?...yeah pretty vulnerable to chips! also there are different shades of silver available in paint form ainting of the forks alone, you can make a real nice job of those lowers with some wet/dry and scotchbrite This is what I did, once I got them looking good I then used a clear lacquer on them,
nayruf Posted August 9, 2012 Posted August 9, 2012 Having said all this Sacha, on your particular bike the forks were left in a brushed bare aluminium finish from the factory...If it were me I'd do likewise and leave all this painting of the forks alone, you can make a real nice job of those lowers with some wet/dry and scotchbrite This is what I did, once I got them looking good I then used a clear lacquer on them, Aj
Sacha Posted August 20, 2012 Author Posted August 20, 2012 Thanks for the advice AJ and DT... I will give that a try on my fork sliders. Things have kind of started to crawl haven't they?! All of the little bits and pieces are now primed and ready to paint... and had I known how much work is involved between primer and paint I would have looked into acid etch primer. Um, my hubby told me that every piece would have to be scuffed, but I failed to realize just how tedious and time-consuming that was going to be. But all my crying aside, I bucked up and spent a load of time this weekend scuffing the primer on all the little bits and frame and swing arm to get them ready for paint. (pieces primed) So then we loaded up everything and took to the shop to paint only to find out that they were out of filters for the paint booth. Oh well, since we couldn't paint Mike welded the tears in my seat pan and fender (so now they'll be ready to paint too)... and I tried my hand at a little welding. It was kind of fun. So then I had to actually spend some time on the neglected yard and house work this weekend. Here's hoping to get the bits painted this week or next weekend and start reassembly before I forget how it goes back together.
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