wild foamy Posted December 27, 2011 Posted December 27, 2011 Hey peeps Just bought a spares or repair honda E300 generator (made in 1967ish, so about 2-3 times my own age) and i cannot get the fecker to spark, its a 50cc (or there abouts) four stroke and the plan was to strip it down and install it inside the mini with some sort of electric start mod for running bits and pieces/charging batteries at mini shows, but i may just keep it for running lights and stuff have taken the end cap off and found the points, and the coil, cleaned up the little arm thing that opens and closes (name unknown) and checked the gap (15 thou) but still nothing, have tried 2 plugs which i know are good, the killswitch operates fine with continuity in the "off" position and open line in the "run" position (this particular switch earths the ignition) im clueless now peeps, perhaps some of the more vintage members amongst us can shed some light on my problem? love to all Foameh P.S. this is what i found under the endcap: http://s1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/wildfoamy/?action=view¤t=DSCF1432.jpg
Moderator DirtyDT Posted December 27, 2011 Moderator Posted December 27, 2011 The silver, round thing is the condensor. Points have to be "gapped" when the cam is on the peak so when the points are as wide as they can go. The points should arc as they spin. if it has a battery, with the power on and the points closed, open the points with a flat screwdriver, they should arc also like this.
Moderator drewpy Posted December 27, 2011 Moderator Posted December 27, 2011 no they shouldn't arc, the condensor is there to prevent it or the points will wear due to spark erosion! check continuity and no earthing on the points, as its an old genny, I'd say gap it with fag packet a la brit bike. check coil too!
wild foamy Posted December 27, 2011 Author Posted December 27, 2011 are there any foolproof ways of checking the coil and condensor? continuity and the such
Moderator DirtyDT Posted December 27, 2011 Moderator Posted December 27, 2011 no they shouldn't arc, the condensor is there to prevent it or the points will wear due to spark erosion! I've never seen old points that aren't pitted due to arc'ing of some kind, Drewps. LINKY1 LINKY2
Moderator drewpy Posted December 27, 2011 Moderator Posted December 27, 2011 I've never seen old points that aren't pitted due to arc'ing of some kind, Drewps. LINKY1 LINKY2 yes true, but a working condensor will reduce it so i'll run more than a few hours! good link to manuals BTW
Moderator DirtyDT Posted December 27, 2011 Moderator Posted December 27, 2011 yes true, but a working condensor will reduce it so i'll run more than a few hours!........................ True Not saying this generator is old however, I think I saw one on a recent showing of Dad's army!!!!!
Moderator Airhead Posted December 27, 2011 Moderator Posted December 27, 2011 foamy to check the capacitor you will need a multimeter that can measure capacitance, a rarity. however you can check with continuity between the lead and the metal case, ther should be no continuous continuity. I assume the generator doesnt have a battery and runs a magneto type ignition? as far as the ignition coil goes check continuity between ... the cable to the coil and the metal coil mounting, this should be a low reading the plug lead and the metal coil mounting, this should be a high reading 5 thousand ohms (ish)...secondary winding If your capacitor is shorting it will prevent running...if this is the case try disconnecting it to see if you get a spark and if so get a new capacitor aka (condenser) another thing to look for... check the spring of the moving contact isnt touching anything as it's a 'live' part of the system. The moving contact sits on plastic insulating washers to isolate it from chassis
wild foamy Posted January 22, 2012 Author Posted January 22, 2012 Reviving a dead post here, lol cheers for the input everyone, i havent even looked at this generator since last time i posted as have been cracking on with the XJ650 Turbo
Recommended Posts