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Points, breakers and contact thingymabobs, what the heck is this?


wild foamy
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Hey peeps

Just bought a spares or repair honda E300 generator (made in 1967ish, so about 2-3 times my own age) and i cannot get the fecker to spark, its a 50cc (or there abouts) four stroke and the plan was to strip it down and install it inside the mini with some sort of electric start mod for running bits and pieces/charging batteries at mini shows, but i may just keep it for running lights and stuff

have taken the end cap off and found the points, and the coil, cleaned up the little arm thing that opens and closes (name unknown) and checked the gap (15 thou) but still nothing, have tried 2 plugs which i know are good, the killswitch operates fine with continuity in the "off" position and open line in the "run" position (this particular switch earths the ignition)

im clueless now peeps, perhaps some of the more vintage members amongst us can shed some light on my problem?

love to all

Foameh

P.S. this is what i found under the endcap:

http://s1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/wildfoamy/?action=view&current=DSCF1432.jpg

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  • Moderator

The silver, round thing is the condensor. Points have to be "gapped" when the cam is on the peak so when the points are as wide as they can go. The points should arc as they spin. if it has a battery, with the power on and the points closed, open the points with a flat screwdriver, they should arc also like this.

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no they shouldn't arc, the condensor is there to prevent it or the points will wear due to spark erosion!

check continuity and no earthing on the points, as its an old genny, I'd say gap it with fag packet a la brit bike.

check coil too!

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  • Moderator

no they shouldn't arc, the condensor is there to prevent it or the points will wear due to spark erosion!

I've never seen old points that aren't pitted due to arc'ing of some kind, Drewps.

LINKY1

LINKY2

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I've never seen old points that aren't pitted due to arc'ing of some kind, Drewps.

LINKY1

LINKY2

yes true, but a working condensor will reduce it so i'll run more than a few hours!

good link to manuals BTW

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yes true, but a working condensor will reduce it so i'll run more than a few hours!........................

True

Not saying this generator is old however, I think I saw one on a recent showing of Dad's army!!!!!

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  • Moderator

foamy to check the capacitor you will need a multimeter that can measure capacitance, a rarity.

however you can check with continuity between the lead and the metal case, ther should be no continuous continuity. I assume the generator doesnt have a battery and runs a magneto type ignition?

as far as the ignition coil goes check continuity between ...

the cable to the coil and the metal coil mounting, this should be a low reading

the plug lead and the metal coil mounting, this should be a high reading 5 thousand ohms (ish)...secondary winding

If your capacitor is shorting it will prevent running...if this is the case try disconnecting it to see if you get a spark and if so get a new capacitor aka (condenser)

another thing to look for...

check the spring of the moving contact isnt touching anything as it's a 'live' part of the system. The moving contact sits on plastic insulating washers to isolate it from chassis

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  • 4 weeks later...

Reviving a dead post here, lol

cheers for the input everyone, i havent even looked at this generator since last time i posted as have been cracking on with the XJ650 Turbo

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