Silkolene V-twin 10w-50 fully synthetic motorcycle engine oil

[Toutsuite]

This should be of interest to all you V-twin owners out there.

I bought my draggie 650 back in August, and there have been no problems (apart from a snapped speed cable), even after installing new pipes and rejetting. However, as the weather started getting a bit chilly, cold starting the engine started to worry me a bit. The engine is noisier right after cold startup, I would imagine because the oil hasn't had time to fully lubricate the engine yet. The usual ticking of the tappetts was more like a clack with the engine cold, and it was several minutes before the noise settled back down to a ticking. So I started reading up on motorcycle engine oils.

I read some good things about fully synthetic engine oil specially formulated for bikes and v-twins in particular. Mobil makes the Mobil1 V-twin oil, but it's very difficult to source outside America. So I went looking around for alternatives and found the Fuchs equivalent as per the title of this post. So I ordered it off the web to give it a go. I even emailed Fuchs themselves with a couple of questions regarding any potential problems with the clutch plates etc, and received a very detailed (and reassuring) response from their customer service chemist. The oil uses some kind of electrostatic technology to cling to the metal inside the engine and thus provide better lubrication.

So here are my first impressions after a day's riding, having changed the oil from bog-standard mineral oil to this stuff. Did I notice a difference? Immediately!! First off the engine just runs and feels and sounds smoother. It's also noticeably quieter. It revs more enthusiastically than before and I swear it feels like I've gained a little power, like 1 or 2hp. I'm not saying that's what's happened, I'm saying that's what it feels like: just noticeably more pep. I rode around south London in moderate traffic and I don't think the engine got as hot as it would normally get (stands to reason with improved lubrication). And when I went on the A2 even the well known vibration all 650 and 1100 dragstars suffer from around the 60 to 65 mph mark in 5th gear was attenuated! Still there of course, but not as bad. I also let the old girl cool down a bit to give her a cold-ish start, and there was no sign of the earlier issues with cold starting. I'll know for sure tomorrow morning when I fire her up again.

But the biggest difference the Silkolene oil made was to the clutch. It's like I've got the clutch off a different bike now. So much smoother gear changes, no more occasional sticky plates, no more clunckiness, I can find neutral easily, and downshifting is a breeze!

It's very rare that I wax lyrical about any product, but I'm pretty convinced as long as Silkolene keep making it, I'll keep using it. Highly recommended.

[drewpy]

interesting, so what was the oil called? and the weight?

[Airhead]

interesting, so what was the oil called? and the weight?

read the bloody title!

[oldtimer]

interesting, so what was the oil called? and the weight?

FUCHS knows

[mervin]

opie oils sell it , I run my honda on silkolene semi synth 10/40

Merv

[DirtyDT]

I use Rock Oil Guardian 10/40 semi synth in the SV (V twin) and rate it very highly. JASO MA, JASO MA2 and API SL approved - whatever that means.

[drewpy]

read the bloody title!

fuchs = silkoline then?

[Toutsuite]

fuchs = silkoline then?

Yup, and it only comes in 1L bottles, about £11 a pop.

Fuchs / Silkolene also make a fully synthetic for racing bikes and the like.

[Toutsuite]

I use Rock Oil Guardian 10/40 semi synth in the SV (V twin) and rate it very highly. JASO MA, JASO MA2 and API SL approved - whatever that means.

The JASO MA2 bit means it's certified to work with wet clutches. The nice chemist at Fuchs explained that to me!

[DirtyDT]

The JASO MA2 bit means it's certified to work with wet clutches. The nice chemist at Fuchs explained that to me!

Ah, now I know. I did used to use a quality Silkolene oil and found it very good but have moved to Rock oil stuff now. Probably a good time to remind people that most car oils contain additives that will kill a wet clutch in a bike so the bargain car oils from their local supermarket may not be a bargain after all.

[Toutsuite]

Probably a good time to remind people that most car oils contain additives that will kill a wet clutch in a bike so the bargain car oils from their local supermarket may not be a bargain after all.

Seconded!

[neversaydie]

Interesting!

Whenever folks have asked here about which oil to use for the dragstars, I've always recommended the Silkolene for the same reasons Toutside has described.

However, this is the first time I've seen/heard of the 10W 50 being used.

Now I'm certainly no expert, but doesnt that mean the oil is thinner and is more likely to become sluggish when the cold ie freezing weather hits?

[DirtyDT]

Well, you asked for it;

LINKY

[neversaydie]

Well, you asked for it;

LINKY

So, if i've got this right then,10w 50 is thicker than 10w 40 at operating temperature

Wont that result in poorer lubrication?

[Toutsuite]

Btw, cold startup this morning was a breeze given the temperature (9 degrees), even the starter turns quicker now, and no funny noises from the engine!

[DirtyDT]

The oil has to be a compromise between lubing and getting through the oil channels. They know more than me so if they say 10/40, I buy 10/40. They did spec oils differently for different markets so if you were in the tropics you would have one range and if you were in the Arctic they would recommend a different range. I don't know if they do that anymore.

[Toutsuite]

So, if i've got this right then,10w 50 is thicker than 10w 40 at operating temperature

Wont that result in poorer lubrication?

I think the difference is that the 10w 50 has a wider temperature operating range. At operating temp, I think there's a range within which viscocity of a given oil must fall. It can be too thick, but it can also be too thin, so one oil being thicker than another at op. temp. doesn't necessarily mean poorer performance, as long as it falls within that range.

[Toutsuite]

And being purely empirical, since once the engine is warmed up it 1) works fine, in fact better than before the oil change, and 2) doesn't get as hot, it's obvious that it's lubricated better than before.

[neversaydie]

And being purely empirical, since once the engine is warmed up it 1) works fine, in fact better than before the oil change, and 2) doesn't get as hot, it's obvious that it's lubricated better than before.

Didnt mean any offence Toutsuite, or in any way question he thread. If using 10w 50 is better for my engines, Ill chuck somein.

But

Im a cautious kind of chap.

If yammy spend dollops of money developing engines, and then the lubricants to use inthem, does using something elseinvalidate the warranty?

If the engines not getting as hot, does that mean the tolerances and fits that yammy planned as a consequence of the research are no longer apply? Is that good orbad, sonce expansion would have been planned for in the design stage?

Does the thicker oil at operatign temp mean the pressure in the cranckcase increases?

Or am I just a boring old twat

[Toutsuite]

Took no offence nsd, sorry if my last response came across as a bit testy, that was not the intention. Oops!

You may have a point about the warranty, but I wouldn't think that applies to my 9 year old bike though.

As for the rest, you might be right for all I know, it's just that I've developed a feel for the engine between me legs as it were (oo er missus!) and it just feels like it's much happier with this oil. Fuchs make a 10/40 part synthetic if you're interested and want to play it a bit more safe.

In the specifications section of the manual to my bike it lists a range of viscosities that can be used dependent on the temperature range of the environment, ranging from 10W30 to20W50. The 10w40 is more suitable for our climate no doubt, but I chose the oil primarily because it was fully synthetic. I think it should be fine, but maybe others more knowledgable can wade in here.

Finally, it should be born in mind that I went from bog standard mineral oil to the fancy-pants fully synth, resulting in a very noticeable difference in general performance. Others who might try going from something more advanced than plain mineral oil (like partly synth) to the fully synth 10w50 might notice less of a change.