Measures Posted August 29, 2012 Author Posted August 29, 2012 Got it started today but all the electrics are odd, as in they don't work. Also the ignition/kill switch doesn't work so you have to stall it to kill the engine. Keys make no difference either... Can't think what is missing
Moderator Airhead Posted August 29, 2012 Moderator Posted August 29, 2012 I take it you have a multimeter?
Measures Posted August 29, 2012 Author Posted August 29, 2012 Not as yet but going to borrow one. I've found a black wire with a white stripe going into the rectifier (the thing behind the 2 stroke tank) and when that is plugged in then i don't get a spark at all. Also, what is the brown wire coded for?
Moderator Airhead Posted August 29, 2012 Moderator Posted August 29, 2012 Not as yet but going to borrow one. I've found a black wire with a white stripe going into the rectifier (the thing behind the 2 stroke tank) and when that is plugged in then i don't get a spark at all. Also, what is the brown wire coded for? The black/white wire to the CDI is the engine 'kill' wire when the keyswitch is off this wire is shorted to chassis also when the keyswitch is on and the kill switch in not in RUN position this wire is again shorted to chassis it follows then that when the keyswitch is ON and the kill switch is in RUN this wire is NOT shorted to chassis what do you mean what is the brown wire coded for? dont understand the question brown wire from/to what?
Measures Posted August 29, 2012 Author Posted August 29, 2012 The black/white wire to the CDI is the engine 'kill' wire when the keyswitch is off this wire is shorted to chassis also when the keyswitch is on and the kill switch in not in RUN position this wire is again shorted to chassis it follows then that when the keyswitch is ON and the kill switch is in RUN this wire is NOT shorted to chassis what do you mean what is the brown wire coded for? dont understand the question brown wire from/to what? The engine will only get a spark with the black/white unplugged at the back... once I plug it in the spark disappears. The brown wire branching off with the wires for the rear brake switch, what is it for? I can't find a plug for it. Thanks for the help so far!
Moderator Airhead Posted August 29, 2012 Moderator Posted August 29, 2012 The engine will only get a spark with the black/white unplugged at the back... once I plug it in the spark disappears. Yeah when you get the multimeter study whats happening by referencing what I have just told you The brown wire branching off with the wires for the rear brake switch, what is it for? I can't find a plug for it. There is a brown wire to the rear brake switch thats correct
Measures Posted August 29, 2012 Author Posted August 29, 2012 Ah, so are the two black wires going into one female plug for an earth then? I've got one yellow for the recifier (think it's called that), the other yellow for the brake switch and the brown for the brake switch (as of 10 minutes ago...
Moderator Airhead Posted August 29, 2012 Moderator Posted August 29, 2012 Ah, so are the two black wires going into one female plug for an earth then? I've got one yellow for the recifier (think it's called that), the other yellow for the brake switch and the brown for the brake switch (as of 10 minutes ago... That is not the rectifier it is the voltage regulator. The voltage regulator has a yellow/white wire thet plugs into a single bullet socket also yellow/white. It also has a black wire that is secured using a ring terminal around the regulator mounting bolt, this black plugs into one of the black sockets in the pair you mentioned, the black from the battery negative plugs into the other. The other yellow is for the brake switch. Its a bullet socket at the brake switch and bullet plug on the loom
Measures Posted August 29, 2012 Author Posted August 29, 2012 That is not the rectifier it is the voltage regulator. The voltage regulator has a yellow/white wire thet plugs into a single bullet socket also yellow/white. It also has a black wire that is secured using a ring terminal around the regulator mounting bolt, this black plugs into one of the black sockets in the pair you mentioned, the black from the battery negative plugs into the other. so does this leave a yellow??? tell us more about this Right so I'm missing a ring terminal then... And there is no battery so there is a brown plugged into a red further up the loom (as I pulled it). Yup on yellow which I have plugged into one of the wires from the RB switch.
Moderator Airhead Posted August 29, 2012 Moderator Posted August 29, 2012 I assume you will be fitting a battery next, you will need the little fuse that is in the battery + wire as well
Measures Posted August 29, 2012 Author Posted August 29, 2012 I assume you will be fitting a battery next, you will need the little fuse that is in the battery + wire as well No not going to bother with one I'm afraid. Still need to figure the kill switch gremlin - When I took the bike to bits there was a ring connector on the bolt retaining the 2 stroke tank... I presume this is an Earth? I hate electrics!
Moderator Airhead Posted August 29, 2012 Moderator Posted August 29, 2012 No not going to bother with one I'm afraid. Still need to figure the kill switch gremlin - When I took the bike to bits there was a ring connector on the bolt retaining the 2 stroke tank... I presume this is an Earth? I hate electrics! are you going to be using this on the road then?, How will it pass an MOT with no lights/horn
Measures Posted August 29, 2012 Author Posted August 29, 2012 are you going to be using this on the road then?, How will it pass an MOT with no lights/horn They run off the engine when I fix the electrics... You don't need a battery to pass just so long as all the lights work when the engine is running. My Dad and Unlce have both had bikes like this before... Just need a resistor to stop it blowing bulbs.
Moderator Airhead Posted August 29, 2012 Moderator Posted August 29, 2012 batteries arent expensive, Its the battery and a correctly wired regulator that will keep the bulbs from blowing
Measures Posted August 29, 2012 Author Posted August 29, 2012 batteries arent expensive, Its the battery and a correctly wired regulator that will keep the bulbs from blowing I might see. Really need to sort out important issues first though. You need a resistor if you don't have a battery =http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=109786]width="400" height="225" flashvars="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=13b4004eff&photo_id=7922666240" bgcolor="#000000" allowFullScreen="true"
Measures Posted September 3, 2012 Author Posted September 3, 2012 Quick video... We live on a little private road so this is legal That was from cold out the garage!
Measures Posted September 17, 2012 Author Posted September 17, 2012 For anyone interested, or just wondering... Yeah, you can fit a DT175 In/on the back of a Suzuki SJ No trailer license = No problem.
Measures Posted September 17, 2012 Author Posted September 17, 2012 nice sj, got any more pics??? Some. It was pretty scary tbh, especially down the A47. We didn't exceed 35, lol. Went green laning after so it's all good! Bike was stuck about 1 foot out either side of the jeep, no mirrors. PS that's not me, it's my mate who's jeep it is.
Measures Posted February 3, 2013 Author Posted February 3, 2013 I didn't do my test in the end meaning I can't ride this due to new regs, so I think I'll be selling it to buy a car. It's been hidden away at the farm since we took it down, been ridden occasionally but I think there's something up with the oil pump as it kept getting really hot until we put some 2T oil in the petrol tank to make a crude pre-mix. I've just ordered a new loom and will fit it in the holidays I think, apart from that I just need some fork seals then it should be MOT-able. Should be fun!
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