Super_Shabz Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 Hi guys, I'm new to biking and have just bought a YZF R-125. Was wondering what the correct way to wash the bike is. I gave it a wipe over becuase i was a bit reluctant is using too much water and damagaing the bike. Any tips with washing, cleaning polishing the bike, exhaust, chain wheels. Thanx guys, Shabaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator Goff Posted June 18, 2009 Moderator Share Posted June 18, 2009 Bit long winded but here goes! The pride of owning a smart looking bike is often taken for granted – that is until either you (or worse still someone else) spots a part that is corroding or is generally grubby. But how many owners really know how to clean a bike properly and how often? It is simple and easy to properly clean a bike – with a few simple do’s and don’ts anyway. So please read on, i'm sure everyone will learn something from this. Below are a few simple rules to put into practice the next time you lovingly lather up your motorcycle. Adoption of these will give your bike the advantage in keeping up appearances. Before Cleaning – Prepare Yourself! That’s right, are you prepared? Have you taken off your watch (it will scratch even the best quality paintwork motorcycle can provide), so will those rings or any bracelets you might have on. So take them off and put them somewhere safe. Will you be sitting on the bike? Do you have belt buckle on or zips on jackets or fleeces that may make contact and cause scratches? OK, you’ve checked you are scratch-free, what about the sponge or cleaning rags in the bucket? Are they grit free? With a bike you need a sponge and soft nylon bristled brushes for the non-bodywork areas to shift the grime and hardened insect corpses that inevitably accumulate and separate sponges and good quality cleaning cloths for the painted panels. So give them all a good rinsing before you start. Only use cleaning equipment that is good to go. If in doubt, use nought! Buy some new equipment, it’s a false economy not to. So your now scratch free and you’re sure the equipment you have to clean your bike with is clean and ready to use. What cleaning agents are you going to use today? Well what’s under the kitchen sink? That stuff fetches the grime of the roasting tin every time, so it will work a treat on my bike, won’t it? NO. NO. NO. Never, ever, ever use any liquid detergent or anything else that you would expect to use in the house on your bike. Leave it under the sink for the dishes. Most liquids have salt diluted into them and well, you try not to ride your bike on salted roads in the winter months for sound reasons, so why sprinkle sodium chloride over your bike when you wash it? So if you haven’t already got an automotive shampoo, you need to obtain some before washing your bike. Do you own any restorative-cleaning agents? You know the sort. They promise to turn that lack-lustre aluminium into a gleaming shine simply by brushing on, walking away and then come back 5 minutes later. A simple effortless wipe and by magic, the shine is back. BEWARE of such products. They tend to be by nature highly acidic or alkaline and are corrosive by nature. If applied to plated surfaces, the protective covering is likely to be eaten away by the very product promising to help you. The result is obviously that those parts that have lost their protection will deteriorate more quickly in the future. Leave any wire brushes or abrasive pads in the garage. Enough said. OK, so now, having sorted ourselves out, our equipment and have appropriate automotive cleaning agents, we can safely approach the bike. Quick Check: 1. Am I free of things that will scratch my bike? 2. Are my sponges, cleaning cloths clean and grit free? 3. Do I have automotive cleaning agents? Don’t run to the kitchen sink! Cleaning – a Few Generalities Frequent, regular cleaning is an essential part of the maintenance of your motorcycle. If regularly cleaned, the appearance will be preserved for many years. How regularly? Up to you. The more often you clean your bike, the better it will withstand what the world throws at it. A weekly clean would be appreciated by any bike. Cleaning with cold water will prevent increasing corrosive action of any salt that your bike may have already picked up - including exposure to sea breezes, sea water, dusty or muddy roads and in winter when roads are treated for ice and snow. Although, under the terms of your motorcycle warranty, cover is provided against the corrosion of certain items, the owner is expected to observe this reasonable advice, which will safeguard against corrosion and enhance the appearance of the motorcycle. Do not use household detergent, as the use of such products will lead to premature corrosion. Prepare the Bike for Washing Before washing, precautions must be taken to keep water off the following places. - Rear opening of the silencer(s) / mufflers: Cover with a plastic bag secured with rubber bands. - Clutch and brake levers, switch housings on the handlebar: Cover with plastic bags to prevent excessive water getting into the wiring beneath the switch cubes. - Ignition switch: Cover the keyhole with tape, again to stop water draining into the electrical connections within the switch assembly. Where to be careful. Avoid excess water the following places: - Instruments - Brake cylinders and brake callipers - Under the fuel tank - Headstock bearings - Air intake duct above the headlights Caution: Any excess water around the air intake duct could enter the air box and engine causing damage to both items. Hand wash or Pressure Washer? Use of high-pressure spray washers is not recommended. When using pressure washers, water may be forced into bearings and other components causing premature wear from corrosion and loss of lubrication. It is not worth the risk. Hand wash every time. The Wash Ensure the bike is cold. Start at the top of the bike. Roll up your sleeves and apply via your clean bodywork sponge. Soak those areas that have dead insects and leave them for a few minutes, they will come away once the water has done its job. Return to them after a few minutes. Gentle use of a soft nylon brush will dislodge the most stubborn debris. Once you have washed the bodywork, change to your other sponge and use nylon brushes to wash the other areas. Those areas that catch the grime (for example under the rear mudguard) need to be soaked and left before you can normally wipe away the road muck. Take your time. A selection of different nylon brushes will ease the task. When you think you have dislodged the dirt, use clean cold water to rinse the bike down. This will wash away any loose dirt still settled on the bikes various surfaces and rinse away any traces of shampoo, which may cause unsightly staining if not removed. Note: Use of soaps that are highly alkaline will leave a residue on painted surfaces and may also cause water spotting. Always use a low alkaline soap to aid the cleaning process. After Washing Remove the plastic bags and tape, and clear the air intakes. Lubricate the pivots, bolts and nuts. Use a dry cloth to absorb water residue. Do not allow water to stand on the machine as this will lead to corrosion. Test the brakes before motorcycle operation. Once the bike is dried, we have an opportunity of applying substances that will provide a barrier to deterioration. There are a host of products on the market and your dealer will be able to offer you local advise. An auto bodywork polish is appropriate for painted panels. A light lubricant (AKA the oily rag treatment!) is fine for most non-painted bodywork area. The obvious areas not to apply any light lubricant to are the working surfaces of brake discs and exhaust system areas (see below for exhausts). Warning: Never wax or lubricate the brake discs. Loss of braking power and an accident could result. Clean the disc with a proprietary brand of oil free brake disc cleaner. Unpainted Aluminum Items If you are not sure which parts are unpainted aluminum parts on your particular bike, ask your dealer. Items such as brake and clutch levers must be correctly cleaned to preserve their appearance. Use a proprietary brand of aluminium cleaner, which does not include caustic elements. Clean aluminium items regularly, in particular after use in inclement weather, where the components must be hand washed and dried each time the machine is used. Warranty claims due to inadequate maintenance will not be allowed. Cleaning of the Exhaust System All parts of the exhaust system of your motorcycle must be cleaned regularly to avoid deterioration of its appearance. These instructions can be applied to chrome, brushed stainless steel and carbon fiber components alike. NOTE – The exhaust system must be cool before washing to prevent water spotting. Washing: Prepare a mixture of water and mild soap. Do not use a highly alkaline soap as commonly found at commercial car washes because it leaves a residue. Wash the exhaust system with a soft cloth. Do not use an abrasive scouring pad or steel wool. They will damage the finish. Rinse the exhaust system thoroughly. Insure no soap or water enters the mufflers. Drying: Dry the exhaust system as far as possible with a soft cloth. Do not run the engine to dry the system or spotting will occur. Protecting: When the exhaust system is dry, rub ‘Motorex 645 Clean And Protect’ into the surface. Caution: The use of silicone products such as WD40 will cause discolouration of the chrome and must not be used. Similarly, the use of abrasive cleaners such as Solvol Autosol will damage the system and must not be used. It is recommended that regular protection be applied to the system as this will both protect and enhance the system’s appearance. Final Thoughts Regular cleaning is obviously essential to keep the bike looking fine. It not only gives you the satisfaction of having a good looking bike to use next time you go for a ride, but you also get technically closer to the bike, noticing how things are connected and operate, which parts move in what direction. So your technical appreciation and learning will grow. Cleaning bike Checklist. 1. Prepare yourself, your equipment and use only approved cleaning agents 2. Prepare the bike for washing 3. Wash the bike and soak 4. Rinse the bike with cold water 5. Dry the bike 6. Apply corrosion inhibitor to metal parts and polish to painted parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super_Shabz Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 Thanx a million goff, That was a very clear explanation. Loadza help! Shabaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barwell1992 Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 bloody hell that were a bit long winded lol the only place i use a jet wash is on the tires and on the rim (no where near the bearings) i also wash my bike evory time i have been out in the rain preforably just as its stoped raining on the same day to stop the crud from drying and sticking to the bike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wombledog Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 Seems to me the best way to wash a bike is to get Goff to do it Regards WD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gas up - Let's Go! Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 Seems to me the best way to wash a bike is to get Goff to do it Regards WD She sure is thorough. Me, I soak it with nice cold water, squirt it all over with muc-off, then squirt nice cold water over it again. Somtimes, if there are lots of flies, then I might give it a rub all over with a sponge (one of those that looks like it's in pair of fishnets). It either gets a run around the block to flush the water out, or a blast with the airline to blow the water out. Job done. I don't subscribe to this "don't use a pressure washer" - if it can't take a domestic pressure wash, then it's not really going to hold out with wagon spray/heavy rain hitting it at 70mph. So the dirt bike get pressure wash, muc-off and pressure wash (no spongey rub). I also have a XJR that is a pain in the arse to clean - so I only take it out on nice days! The rest of the time the XT gets to play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barkwindjammer Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 What about spiders, the ones that wait for you to go to your 'snoogie', then build a glistening web from the top of the mirrors - down, daily ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barwell1992 Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 just gave my bike a good old clean took me abour 3hours lol to get it spotless and cleanded and coated to keep the rust at bay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky2 Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Hi All new here, so saying hello, when washing my bikes down i do use a pressure washer but stay away from bearings and electrics, also spray my exhaust after with "ACF50" fantastic stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barkwindjammer Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Hi All new here, so saying hello, when washing my bikes down i do use a pressure washer but stay away from bearings and electrics, also spray my exhaust after with "ACF50" fantastic stuff ACF50, is that like WD40 but with Arachnid Calcifier Formula in it, and therefore pricier ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator drewpy Posted July 10, 2009 Moderator Share Posted July 10, 2009 I dry my bike with a 2 stroke leaf blower. great fun, neighbours hate me I'm sure I also wax chrome as well as paint work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator mervin Posted July 12, 2009 Moderator Share Posted July 12, 2009 I dry my bike with a 2 stroke leaf blower. great fun, neighbours hate me I'm sure I also wax chrome as well as paint work at long last a good use for a leaf blower, merv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cov_AL Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 I tend to go for a quick spary with Mucoff then use a "garden plant spray" to rinse it off It's low pressure - so won't do any damage and speeds up the whole process... then a quick oil/WD40 of pivot points and a bit of ACF50 on any rust prone areas (+ a bit on the exhaust as it makes it come up looking ACE!) ACF50, is that like WD40 but with Arachnid Calcifier Formula in it, and therefore pricier ? Anti Corrosion Formula 50 - quite differant from Water Displacement 40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted July 12, 2009 Moderator Share Posted July 12, 2009 I use natures way - Rain. I only clean one if it is up for sale or a bird has S*at on the seat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator mervin Posted July 13, 2009 Moderator Share Posted July 13, 2009 I use natures way - Rain. I only clean one if it is up for sale or a bird has S*at on the seat. tell her to keep her knickers on next time dirty moo, :D :D however you wash it keep things well lubed especially cables take care spraying water near cables eh, they will rust, seize and break, if got wet and not lubed merv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barkwindjammer Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Keep her knickers on! She only wears them to keep her ankles warm I do lube - Ooh errr - I think there needs to be a caveat around lubing cables. I know that, for a while, some bike cables came with a thin plastic coating around the inner cable. These cables should not be lubed as it causes the plastic to swell and jam in the outer sleeve. Brilliant idea, where can you purchase a set of caveats from,I searched flea-bay and all the online bike supply shops all last night, are they 'sweated' on like 'heat-shrink-sleeves'? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderator DirtyDT Posted July 13, 2009 Moderator Share Posted July 13, 2009 Keep her knickers on! She only wears them to keep her ankles warm I do lube - Ooh errr - I think there needs to be a caveat around lubing cables. I know that, for a while, some bike cables came with a thin plastic coating around the inner cable. These cables should not be lubed as it causes the plastic to swell and jam in the outer sleeve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barkwindjammer Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Keep her knickers on! She only wears them to keep her ankles warm I do lube - Ooh errr - I think there needs to be a caveat around lubing cables. I know that, for a while, some bike cables came with a thin plastic coating around the inner cable. These cables should not be lubed as it causes the plastic to swell and jam in the outer sleeve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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