EwOkIE Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Right where to start..... When starting my bike first thing in the morning it tries to start then as if its ready to fire up .. it then dies. Then it keeps trying and kills the battery..... Put jump leads on it ...keeps trying and eventually gets going, after 5 mins. Run for a few hours and switch off for 25 mins or even an hour no probs in starting. Its just when you leave it overnight it doesnt go, same thing all the time. Have checked spark plugs,filter etc all good even throttle and choke cable. Choke cable on left side at fairing, bit loose but still works. Do I need a new battery or am I missing something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EwOkIE Posted April 11, 2009 Author Share Posted April 11, 2009 Cleaned carbs again and double checked float heights. Tried new battery..feels a lot stronger in the mornings when trying to start! Now it starts after 1 push of the button and then dies... then tries to start...keeps trying then eventually it goes! Have to open throttle a touch to keep revs up or it dies again. But once it starts I could use it for the full day (start and stopping)..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EwOkIE Posted April 15, 2009 Author Share Posted April 15, 2009 :>>> Blowing to the wind here... Anyone ever hand this problem (echoes.....) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve m Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 May be worth trying a new set of spark plugs ?? if it`s a high miler do a compression test. it may be low on a couple of cylinders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EwOkIE Posted April 16, 2009 Author Share Posted April 16, 2009 Bike has 26K... and you say a compression test. How does that work? and how much roughly will it cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rf9rider Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 Wouldn`t have thought compression would be low on 26000 miles. Sounds more like a carb issue, are the carbs set up right? Air screws etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EwOkIE Posted April 17, 2009 Author Share Posted April 17, 2009 Yeah carbs are spot on and I'm getting roughly 120 miles before petrol light comes on, is that ok? Changed the plugs to iridium ones, now it starts with full choke first time.... and then dies. 2nd time trying with choke fully open it goes but have to leave for a minute to get going Never had to use the choke before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rf9rider Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 100/120 miles per tank sounds about right. So changing the plugs has made a difference? That could point to the coils or plug leads. Have you checked those? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EwOkIE Posted April 18, 2009 Author Share Posted April 18, 2009 Sorry for delay... Yes changed the plugs and leads at the same time. Ignition coils are ok, tested with another bike. Someone says it could be the cable that goes to the starter relay thats corroded. ??? When doing the carb check, I got new emulsion tubes from online, fitted them and did what they say to set them up. Then checked haynes manual with the tube trick to line up with mark thats on the side of the carb...spot on!! Air screw? you mean balancing them.. if so yes did that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rf9rider Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Sorry, i meant pilot screws. They might need adjusting with fitting new emulsion tubes, bike may be running rich or lean. Standard setting is two and a half turns out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EwOkIE Posted April 20, 2009 Author Share Posted April 20, 2009 Rich or Lean? ... But wouldnt that make me smell fuel or poor idling or ride responsiveness when throtlle opening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo515 Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Have you read my post (YZF750R - vibration) - mine won't start with the choke out! It only starts without choke, wierd!! First bike I have ever owned that is happy to fire up and ride off without any choke applied. So the only thing I can suggest is firing it up first thing without any choke and see if that works. Have you had the bike long? Just got mine - 17th April - it's been sat in shed for two years, only done 500 miles in those two years - waste of a bike really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EwOkIE Posted April 20, 2009 Author Share Posted April 20, 2009 I just replied to your post when you replied to mind...weird!!!! Yeah tried that... and bike is fine after it finally starts in the morning..goes on fine all day start and stops without a hitch. Just in the morning! Had bike for 2 years... only problem Ive had with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo515 Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Ha ha - how lucky is that! I had a CBR that did something wierd on a morning, if I started it in the morning in my garage it only ran on three cylinders until warmed. But if moved it out of the garage and onto the street then started it, fired up on all four!! Odd. YZF started on the button this morning - no choke! Question for you though, I upped the tickover to 1250 from 1000 and now when I put it into first it goes in with good clunk, whereas before it was less of a clunk if you know what I mean. What is yours ticking over at. Still getting used to the speed on this bike, so much quicker than my CBR - deceptively quicker!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EwOkIE Posted April 21, 2009 Author Share Posted April 21, 2009 Prefer tickover at round about 1150-75 mark, feels as though engines a bit racey at 1200. Yeah my bikes like that. Feels as though when it starts in the morning, when you open up throttle it nearly dies on you. Need to leave for a few mins till it warms (like running on the edge of 3 cylinders ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo515 Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Changed tickover to 1150, sounds much better now. By the way, how are these bikes supposed to sound on tickover, this thing runs like a swiss watch, very mechanical, sounds nothing like my old CBR600 and ZXR400 - is this normal or me just worrying too much? Also do you have a Haynes manual for your bike? I've got one and there is big section in the back for fault finding, if you want I can scan these pages and email them to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EwOkIE Posted April 22, 2009 Author Share Posted April 22, 2009 No I dont have a haynes manual just check out this site for parts (codes): Motorcycle Parts Yeah I agree 1150-75 is better for idling, and the bikes are bit noisy at startup for a few mins (like running with no oil) Just check oil level every so often as they tend to use a lot!! only bad thing with these bikes. Send me a copy of the faults if you can. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo515 Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 Will scan in the fault pages and attach them in the next couple of days. My bike wouldn't start this morning, so took the car - gutted. Got home this evening, tried it, started first time. So my mate and I took the tank off and checked the air filter tonight - I was told it was a new K & N - no it's not! Looks like no one's been under the tank for a long time. The air filter was black, so given it a thorough clean and blasted the carbs with carb cleaner. We were going to remove the spark plugs, but we couldn't work out how to get to them - do you know? Even the Haynes manual doesn't cover spark plug removal, how wierd is that, it has a brief section on spark plug maintenance and that's it! So we put everything back together and the bike fired up first time, ran it till the fan kicked in, sounds healthier now, just got to see if it fires up in the morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EwOkIE Posted April 22, 2009 Author Share Posted April 22, 2009 The way I do the spark plugs : Loosen bottom bellypan, then take of the 2 side panels. Loosen the two top radiator mounts and carefullt take them out, and just unscrew the bottom ones a bit and pull radiator forward. Then your at them. I prefer the iridium plugs off ebay for £30. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EwOkIE Posted April 26, 2009 Author Share Posted April 26, 2009 Can I not get a break When out for a quick blast on my bike (4 hrs) everything went superb......got home...seen to the missus Washed bike(with jet wash) and now its like a sack of potatoes...I left it for a few hours then tried it again..still the same between 1100-2500 revs...or when I open throttle up !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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