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4strokertwin

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Posts posted by 4strokertwin

  1. well I've been doing some searching, and discovered that there off a 80/81 xs400, and found bowls to fit, but will these work ok, I wonder.

    the jets in the carbs are correct for the bike, but not sure of the slides.

    also found 3 sets of carbs, correct for the bike, at 145. including shipping/postage from the good old US of A, and will have to strip and clean.

  2. Hi peeps.

    I have a 78 xs250 I restored, from early on, I intended to convert to a 400.

    I purchased a set of 400e carbs(well I was told they where, or sold as) some time ago, any way, after stripping the motor, and commenced the change over,that seamed to go ok.
    and now got to the carbs, something is not right, it appears, its either the float cover chamber is wrong or the carbs.
    on checking the parts book I have,the part No.2A2-14984-01, which didn't look correct, so had to order p/n 2a2-11351-00, with the hole in it..
    the float chamber I have looks like the correct, from the Parts book.
    so can anyone shed any light on this, please check photos.

    PS hope it all makes sense.

    thanks graham

    sorry unable to edit with an arrow.the first , bottom right hole, not the screw hose.

    IMG_1054400e_zps5541d5bd.jpg

    IMG_1055400e_zps16df7fc5.jpg

    IMG_1051400e_zps0e2d4b7a.jpg

  3. Thanks drew, u's the man, what would we all do with out you.

    I've never seen a wiring diagram like this, it's not in the 3 workshop manuals I have.

    where's it from.

    by the way, you've done a excellent job with the flat tracker, been following your brog.

    thanks once again, very much appreciated.

    graham

  4. Hi all,

    Help needed please with the wireing route on my 1978 XS, as you can see, i've started the rebuild approx 6 months ago, just haven't had the time to do more.

    I am now stuck on the correct route of the wireing loom,can any one give the right route (left/right, over/under the frame), either words and /or with pictures would be great help.

    I have started from the back, tail light,fuse box ect.

    graham

    IMG_0264600x450.jpgIMG_0266600x450.jpgIMG_0265600x450.jpg

    just put new clutch plates in, and re-zinc plated the kick shaft.

    I've spent about grand on the motor alone.

  5. Hi wayno m8, you could be my saviour. :D

    I need 2 main stand bolts,(with lock nuts) as I can't get the correct size dia 14mm, I’ve got 2 sets of yam replacement parts, they are 12mm dia, so no good.

    All so, could do with side stand bolt,nut,washer, and 2 f/foot rest pivot pins,washer l/nuts.

    could you machine 5 items in stainless steel.

    So, what do you thank, can you do it, and the cost.

    img098_edited-1.jpg

    Thanx graham

  6. Hi all, :D help needed again, I am planning for the rebuild of the engine(78 xs), and wont to get every thing ready before I start.

    I love using a locking adhesive on nuts and bolts.

    So the question is; what do you use :eusa_think: , if anything at all, on con rods, and any other engine nuts/bolts,(crank case).

  7. Thanx drew, u's the man. It didn't look like they where washers, mind u my eye site if crap these days even with reading glasses, if I looked at the diagram I up loaded, I would have seen them. 'Dow' ( if I had a brain I would b dangerous,)

    Both washers where a pig to get out, so was all the other jets, all screw driver slots where chewed up, I didn't help the situation either, had to use a reverse thread extractor to get them. And this had to fricking happen.

    IMG_0248copy.jpg

    Is this possible to repair or is it a bin job and source another one, if so, is there anyone out there with a good right hand carb mikuni BS34 for a xs 400.

  8. I am also restoring a 78 xs with OEM parts where pos, after being off road for 12 years, items 2 date not yam stuff is silencers,s/steel calliper pistons, shocks,some nuts/bolts/washers, brake hoses (purchased from classic brake hoses).

    Not much more to get now after 3 years of collecting. About to start the rolling chassis with the engine going in last.

    graham

  9. drew, yes the carbs r totaly dismantled,see pics, the part i am trying 2 remove is ringed in black,plus ringed in red, there is a brass pin,

    it shows it as a replacment part in pt book,

    Untitled-1.jpg

    in this pic item 4.

    xs400carb.jpg

    edited==its only loaded 1 pic, I wiil try an up load the other

    thanx graham =sorted it Drewps too many http://'s

  10. Thanks drewpy, I've never came across that firm b4, ( goggle search) I will email or phone them to check if they still do it.

    I am going to rebuild the motor last, and pad out the frame. is it right side as you look at bike or sit on.

    Yep 110 for zincing, and some have to b redone, they didn't even undo the nuts from bolts so the ends and insides where not coated.

    graham

    emailed the above, and they have got back 2 me, the cost is £60 + vat. Inc return p&p

  11. I put some masking tape with sponge on the frame rails, engines go in/out from right hand side

    i think the rd aircooled had a supplier but did a search and couldn't find it!

    why don't you use a casswel kit and do it yourself?

    drewps

    As for the kit, £150+ basic £49.00 if I know what I know now, I would have done.

    the first lot of zinc cost me £110. have still more to do, plus the olive drab

    The only firm I have found that still do olive drab is Collins Chemical Blacking, surrey.

    they gestimate £50. for 31 items, food pegs and washers,clips & screws on air hoses.

    I had thought whether to spray sat black(pj1)to save money. (but will it look OK, not authentic??)

  12. SPEEDSHOP-Re oil, I think drewpy answered that one for me, as for the crank & con-rod shells.

    I have cleaned and polished the bottom crank case, cleaned & resprayed the top and side covers, had the cylinders bead/vapour cleaned, and the head cleaned and valves reground, so I think I would be daft not to put new in after a total nut and bolt restoration of the bike, and after spending in excess of 1.5K.

    The idea was to rebuild the minimum of the motor, not the clutch and oil pump etc. to lay the motor on its side and then lower the frame over, fix in place rather than try to put in a rolling chassis, with the likely hood of damaging the p/coat on the frame, I would prefer this way, but as said above, afraid of damaging the frame.

    What do others think of this way of rebuilding the bike, has anyone rebuild this way with no problems.

    I have found 1 coater for olive drab finish, but asked for others for there personal experiences,

    as I have had some bright zinc coating done, and was not happy with it.

    So recommendation I was after.

    I have just read on another forum that this firm I used is crap even for there chroming and service.

    GRAHAM

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