mr benn
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Posts posted by mr benn
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remove the rear caliper.
remove pads from caliper.
remove master cylinder cap.
put thick screwdriver in place of pads.
pump pistons out using brake pedal.
clean pistons with brake or metal parts cleaner, using a stiff small brush to get in around the pistons and seals.
liberally cover the outide of the pistons with red rubber grease.
push the pistons back into the caliper.
grease pins and pad backs/edges with copper grease.
refit pads.
refit caliper.
change fluid and bleed brake.
if this still doesn't work you may need new pistons and seals. this is quite expensive on bluespot calipers.
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Yes I say that.
I don't see that an oil will make your bike sluggish, unless it's a straight 50 which will be too thick for the motor to turn over.
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afaik there are 2 blades. both are available new from Yamaha. the front one is about £15. The rear is about £35.
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lol.........NO!
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Isn't this what you said in another post?
"I daren't get anything bigger.. I'm not meant to be 'allowed' a bike so thinking something smaller might have been a better idea.. "
So there's one reason.
Another is you can't afford to insure it, as you got quoted £700 for a 125.
Thirdly, having owned 2 R6s, I'd suggest that they are not ideal for someone who just passed their test.
And if you want performance why are you looking at 125s?
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a little bit more info might help here..................like what size is the tyre and what size is the rim? 110/90/18? this is a pre-diversion XJ? does it have a 3 inch rear rim?
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A 125 commuting on the A14? Crazy. You'll be getting cut up by artics half the time.
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don't get an R6. it's that simple.
you want reliability yet you're looking at 2-strokes. hellooooooo??????
buy what you need, not what you like the look of.
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get a restricted 600
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you could try checking your valve clearances
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no. the rim will only take a tyre up to a certain size.
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the whole thing? you can normally buy that tube and the grip from Yamaha. Probably cost you about $20.
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600 Fazer
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Castrol 4T Pro Synthetic is not crap - it's a high quality oil and spot on for your engine. It is now called Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T. Valvoline motorcycle oil is mineral oil with synthetic additives - it is crap and nowhere near as good as the Castrol synthetic stuff.
All 5 valve Yamahas use quite a lot of oil. Not saying your consumption is normal, because you don't really know how much it used over what mileage, but they do use oil.
Do you really mean you stripped the engine completely to clean it? Maybe that's why it's using oil?
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sounds more like the exup valve needs stripping, cleaning, greasing, setting correctly. don't overtension the cables.
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it should be in the service manual you downloaded
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have you checked www.kedo.com ?
they sell loads of stuff for XTZ/TDM/TRX.
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Gearbox oil and transmission oil are one and the same. It is the oil filler next to the 750ml marking - probably has a dipstick in it.
If it has seized the gearbox then it's a bigger job as you have to split the crankcases. You may as well replace main bearings and crank seals while you're in there, as well as whatever bearings have seized in the gearbox. You could try putting 750ml of oil in the gearbox and see if it frees anything off - it will only cost you a fiver.
It's almost impossible to estimate the cost of repair until you find out exactly what damage has been done, but with labour it's going to run into a few hundred quid.
The problem with buying a secondhand engine is you don't know its history and it could well expire on you the first time you run it - it is just as likely to need work as the one you have. A new engine will be out of the question - it would be cheaper to buy another bike.
What mileage has the bike done?
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you could try draining the gearbox and see if there's any oil left in it. this may indicate whether it was gearbox oil you were losing.
a top end rebuild is not going to cost the earth. Couple of hundred quid if you do it yourself. a complete engine strip by a mechanic will be expensive though, so it's best to try to find out where the problem lies.
If the engine won't turn over by the kickstarter then maybe it is a piston seizure. If your 2 stroke oil bottle was "full", has the engine been getting any oil to it? how much has the level dropped since you last filled it?
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it will doubtless be 1st oversize ...... + 0.25mm
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your tacho bouncing at 8000rpm could be indicating a TPS fault.
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your "extra line" will be a vacuum connection I'd guess, not a return.
Does the tap (petcock) have a "pri" position? If it does then it's a vacuum tap. Set it to this and try again.
Make sure you have new fresh fuel, and plenty of it, in the tank. It may be worth removing the tap and checking the strainer.
Could be the diaphragm in the tap or fuel pump is split.
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well tbh any 125 four stroke is going to go like a wet fart, so take your pick. Off road style bikes like the DTR or XT seem to get nicked more.
Nick Sanders
in The Bar
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I've met Nick at one of his talks. Top bloke, mad as a box of frogs.
cyco900 - lighten up.