jeffcycles

Has anyone ever seen a fork seal that was virtually impossible to remove? I tried heating and being careful, but was left with nothing but bits of rubber seal left over in the fork lowers. At this point I don't believe that I have any other option other than replacing the entire lower as the seal is tattered and broken into bits, and the area where the seal seats isn't in like new condition anymore. Has anyone had a similar experience and been able to "recondition" the area surrounding the seals? Just tell me I'm not crazy and that some seals won't come out in one whole piece. ... Also, does anyone know if xs650 lowers will work on my 1978 xs400 2e?

I wouldn't say that the bike is anything that "special" other than the fact that most xs400's that I see are custom styles which are drastically different in appearance than your xs. The box-like tank and flat seat don't make too many appearances, which makes your bike all the more interesting as is. Part of the reason that I purchased mine was the fact that it was all original (though I did put a drag bar on), with very few miles as well. But in the end it is your bike, you should do with it what makes you happy.

Hey Yamahead, we're practically neighbors! As a result of our damp Pacific NW air, should I be concerned with day-to-day carb changes like this?

From what I've read over the last day I've learned that pilot jets control idle, correct? Will unblocking also help with the slow dropping rpm's, or could that be symptomatic of another issue? Also, will any small fuel filter do the job? Thanks again!

Both the plugs and wires are solid. I'm assuming that the points are fine, though I haven't checked them closely. Is there a chance that the points could go from perfect to shitty overnight? I assumed that wouldn't be the case and therefore have focused my attention on the carbs. perhaps I'm wrong?

I've begun messing with the carbs (for better or for worse). I"ve got the bike to idle fine with the choke off, and it seems to run with good power. I set the mixture setting by dialing it in until it gently seated and then backing it of 1 1/2 turns. It is running well, though it does have some a subtle backfire. My biggest concern at this point is that the engine rpms don't settle down like they should. Any help from this point would be great!

I've got this '78 xs 400. I have logged near 800 miles since I purchased it a couple weeks ago with no issues. It was running wonderful last night, but then today after startup, it began acting up. I started it with the choke open cause it was around 60 degrees farenheit, but after warming up and closing the choke it was idling rough. It would sputter and slowly die off unless the I gave it some throttle. It would backfire slightly (quietly) and as I continued to ride the problem worsened. I'm in the process of learning how to maintain this bike so any more info would help. A neighbor said that draining the float bowls is a good place to start. When cruising the bike has great power, so I'm hoping its a simpler carb issue.

Thanks for the quick reply. The first order of business will be replacing the chain and rear sprocket (the front looked excellent). I've got my hands on a 39 tooth. As the original was a 37, I hope the jump doesn't alter the setup too much. Any thoughts on this change?

I recently purchased a '78 400 2e with only 8200 miles on it. This is my first bike and I would like to learn to perform maintenance on it myself. I am mechanically inclined and have a history as a bicycle mechanic, so things like swingarms/suspension/chains etc. come easily to me. When it comes to clutches and engines, anything other that simple repairs require SOLID photographs and concisely explained directions. The bike came with the original xs360/400 manual, but its zeroxed photos and badly edited content leave me a little confused. I've found both Clymer and Haynes manuals, but wondered if either one has a better reputation. Both are online, leaving me unable to check them out. Jeff...