too slow

not wishing to look too stupid or ignorant and to give you some idea about my knowledge of computers, in the first line from black hat 250, what is a browse box, i tried to follow your instructions but all that kept happening was i ended up on my home page

nope don't know how to post a link sorry

the best i can come up with is :- go to yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk then look at DT125R 2002 JYADE031, then look at genuine parts, then look at intake section and its parts 13 air chamber and part 35 air chamber 2

nope you've lost me on that one

ok have taken pictures of items but cant find a way of putting them on here from my computer as there doesn't seem to be a way of attaching pictures

since last visit here have turned the carb 90 degrees and removed the bottom of the carb, the jet in the very bottom of the carb that is surrounded by the white plastic piece i take it is the main jet as its got 240 stamped on it so will look through ebay and find some, also does that small black plastic boxey type thing on top of the inlet manifold between the carb and the reed block do anything as well as the one sticking outside the airbox just before the carb ?

ok airhead i'l get a 250 main jet and leave the needle where it is, took the exhaust off this afternoon and checked the power valve, when the ignition is on, the bore is totally smooth and no lumps or bumps when the little clip thing is in line with the whole underneath the cover if that makes sense. Out of interest any particular places thats good for these jets or are they freely available on ebay and do i just look for jets for a flat sided carb ? Blackhat 250 the reason for the sparkplug change was simply the one in there is a good couple of years old so changed it as part of the service i done on the bike and also my yamaha owners manual says the spark plug should be BR9ES (NGK), but i only had a BR9EG so changed it for that till i can get a BR9ES

blackhat 250, bike runs perfect, starts really well and easily when cold or hot, when cold and on choke its smokey and when ridden and warmed up runs clear and no smoke, no strange noises, pulls well and i have removed reed switch from under the rev counter/speedo wrapped it in gaffer tape and left in bottom of clock housing just put new plug in(BR9EG) and the previous one(BR8ES) was a little bit black but was nearly 3 years old but still useable. Airhead, i got the idea of the 260 main jet from some of your posts in another section on here but if your saying dont go more than 250 main jet is there any reason why i can't just make the bike run richer by lifting the needle up 1 or 2 notches ?

i have an 02 DT125r (JYADE031) which is absolutely bog standard except i have changed just the end can to an athena end can(rest of the exhaust is standard),it was mentioned to me that i would need to increase the main jet in the carb to compensate for the freer flow that the new end can has given the engine so after reading some of the stuff on this forum and doing some checking on the yamaha spares website, would i be right in thinking that i need to increase the main jet size in my carb from 240 to 260 and do i need to change the pilot jet to something other than 25, the carb that is fitted a flat sided carb. i'm not interested in my dt doing 100mph nor do i want it to sit with an R1 away from a set of lights up to 50mph, i just don't want to burn a hole in the top of the piston OK ???

like the xt's myself but prefer the 250 as the 500 can be awkward at times to kick over

ok thanks will have a look for one this afternoon

going to go with 15w as i've ordered it now and as i said its not going offroad it'll only be used on the streets by a bloke who's at the age where he should know better

yes the forks will be dry as there going to be stripped and the internals cleaned and dried out before everything is put back together so they should be ok with 500ml of oil and the bike not going to be used off road so should be ok, thanks for the mention on the oil as well and it reminded me to never trust "my mate" again

yes its the owners manual, also just found 1L castrol 15w fork oil on the internet 9:95 so will be collecting that in the morning

just had a phone call and was told after being stripped and cleaned, 500ml each leg using 10 weight oil but to make it just a touch firmer mix 250ml 10w with 250ml 5w and that should do the trick without overloading the seals, does that sound about right for what you have in your haynes manual ?

sorry dont really understand all this internet techno jargon, was just making the letters bold so as to highlight them. The manual i have is the one that came with the bike, its not a Haynes manual its a Yamaha one about 150m/m by 75m/m, a white cover with red/orange writing on the cover with the Yamaha tuning fork in the background and the manual comes in three languages English, French and German

no just looked through mu yamaha manual as doesnt say how much oil goes in each leg and sorry dont know what your on about with this shouting thing

yep know all about thick oil, thin oil, shim stacking, preload(there probably is none), rebound rates(there probably is none) but what i dont know is :- HOW MUCH OIL IS IN EACH FORK LEG, IS IT 10 WEIGHT OIL AS STANDARD, WHAT IS THE AIRGAP ON THE FORKS and no i cant empty mine and measure it as how do i know that it had the correct amount in there in the first place and how do i know i have got all the oil out ?

absolutely agree with you but have spent many hours over the last two weeks trying unsuccessfully to find airgap measurement, even tried local dealer but they weren't sure so thought i would try here before i go down the "just give it to a suspension company" and pay a load of money unnecessarily

rear is all good, stripped and cleaned all the linkage then regreased and rebuilt it all but cant believe that 12 year old fork oil is still capable of doing its job so thought a quick strip/clean and fresh oil must improve it no matter how good or bad it is at the present time thats why i asked about oil weight quantity and airgap

have an 02 dt125r, nothing wrong with it accept the front fork oil is probably still the same stuff from new so thought i would have front and back suspension serviced, is it possible that i could have seen on this or another website that its quite common to put 10 weight oil in the front forks and have an airgap off 100m/m so as to stiffen the front slightly, not bothered about going offroad as its just something to potter around on during the summer. Also can the rear shock be serviced or is it a waste of time ?

just joined have a dt125r 02 brought it as a something to potter around on when the sun shines