Unk

Yeah seems to have been a bit of a breeze thus far but have no wish to tempt fate....I need to make a decision about whether I am going to have the engine ceramic cleaned for that 'just out of the crate look' or whether to employ my own labour and just get down and dirty with it. I'd like it to look nice but I am not into just producing a 'show bike' I wanna ride it like I used to back in 1980....cost is obviously a factor too.....been quoted £160 for the ceramic clean.....it's a tough call.....

Yes TOMMY XS he did mention that you guys were going.....interesting......

A quiet day today on the strip down front due mainly to a meeting with DREWPY where we exchanged dits....well I listened to his good advice and exchanged a few components.....eyed his 'flat tracker'....cracking piece of kit and looks a bag of fun to ride! I guess it's what forums are all about....meeting new people and exchanging knowledge....I certainly benefited from it... Anyway, back to the strip down.....more work tomorrow people......if there is anything you would like to see in more detail regarding the process let me know and I'll endeavour to show you as its all a learning curve

Cheers guys....I managed to get the screw off using an extractor tool.....great piece of kit, must invest in a set. Once that was out of the way the strip down continued and the top/bottom halves were split. The carcasses may go off for ceramic cleaning....not yet decided whether to have it done professionally or just give it a good clean myself as when the bike is finished I will ride it not stick it in the garage.....I do want it to look decent though. On first inspection the internals look good with no noticeable wear to the big end bearings......

Will post it tomorrow if I have had no success :-) Only can't do it now because I haven't taken the pic

Access is very limited mate......very limited.

So today the engine strip down got under way in earnest. Everything has gone pretty smoothly and I am pleasantly suprised so far by the condition of the components I have removed. I had a tough time getting the Alternator Rotor to leave the shaft but patience paid off in the end (well that and a little assistance from a motorcycle mechanic mate of mine called John Wynne) The break down progressed well again once I had overcome that issue.....until I got to the dome shaped screw on the gear selector (one of four but two dome shaped)The Haynes manual warns that these are tight and that they may round off if you're not careful. They were tight. I used an impact driver on three and they came away without too much resistance....the fourth is a different matter. The block of wood I had used to prevent the engine moving had slipped and as I struck the driver the engine moved and the driver head spun in the screw.....rounding it....a few anglo saxon expletives later and I decided to call it a day and have another go tomorrow. Any idea's on how to overcome this would be well received....will using heat assist in the removal........help!!!!!! A few pictures of today's progress

Cracking day in the garage and enjoying the strangely mild autumnal weather. Managed to get a load done. It was amazing how all of a sudden, after feeling like I had hit a plateau, it all came together (or apart) so quickly. Before I knew it the engine was out, the wheels removed and the frame in a state of nakedness. And so now the engine strip down begins....

So tonight's excursion into the garage saw the battery box removed and I am pleased to say it is in sound condition. The front half of the rear mudguard and various electrical items. The engine will be drained of oil/sludge/solids tomorrow and removed from the bike.

Excellent Drewpy thanks very much.....perhaps I can get a physical photocopy of that at some point....save dragging the computer out into the garage..... I reckon I'll have the engine out tomorrow.....then the fun begins....

So front end is now pretty much stripped....once i have the engine out I can remove the wheels as I wont need to keep moving it out of the way of the other bikes. The thing that I am finding a little overwhelming is the prospect of having to re-install the wiring loom as it all looks a pretty tight fit.....any advice on that point is welcome....

Same seller is selling a set of exhausts too but wont ship to the UK......I guess I just have to bide my time

That's a possibility Tommy XS.....I have translated the page and find he only ships to Germany...will send a message anyway....cheers for that

Tell me more mate........never learnt how to weld and wouldnt know the correct size now as nowt to compare it too

Not difficult to see why a new seat pan is required

Welcome....new to here too and already had some good advice from some of the stalwarts.....enjoy :-)

I think it needed a bl**dy good wash to be honest......yes there is quite a bit of work to be done but I really believe most of that is of a cosmetic nature.....if push comes to shove I'll get it roadworthy, keep its 'patina' and ride the backside off it like I used to....all 75mph of it. I'd just like to give the old girl another chance :-)

Jimmy....no personal offence taken mate.....you'd have to try a lot harder then that to upset me :-) Maybe its one I'll later regret but you live and learn as they say......now.....where I can I find a seat?

It's a personal thing.....from the days when I was young and it never let me down....

OK so ventured into the garage tonight to begin the strip down......it's amazing what a bag of worms you can uncover in a very short space of time. The seat pan is shot......damn......it looked okay until I started to remove the side trim strips and it basically crumbled in my hand.....so now on the look out for a new/old/recon seat pan.....the foam looks like it will survive thankfully. Rear mudguard removed and whoever painted it before made a real pigs ear of it not even allowing the paint to dry before bolting the rear light assembly back on! The frame has a tiny crack in it where the left hand side indicator mounts but that is not really a problem and so far the rest of it looks sound. Before I started the breakdown I applied power to the bike to test the electrics and all worked with the exception of the neutral light.......yes it was in neutral. Tomorrow's another day as they say!

The idea of the EPS liner being new and in good condition is that it slows down the impact thereby increasing the chances of survival. It is vitally important that the helmet fits correctly because if the helmet rattles around on your head you are effectively introducing another impact.....ie helmet hits object, head hits inside of helmet, brain makes impact with skull......if the head fits snuggly in the helmet with as much of your head being in contact with the inner as possible you almost eradicate the second part of the impact. Hope this helps and like Steve 1052cc dont want to scare anyone just trying to offer the benefit of my knowledge as someone who has been schooled by technicians from Shark and Shoei

The only 'sure fire' way is to fit a pinlock.....it acts like a 'double glazing'unit.....some of the helmets we have come with pinlock ready visors and some with the pinlock included too.....what size are you? The brands we stocked were Shoei, Shark, HJC, Nitro, Davida......be careful of buying 'a bargain to good to miss' as helmets have 'shelf lives' The EPS liner will start to degrade....what does this mean? In a new helmet....one that has never a) been tried on, worn will have a an EPS that is unaffected by bacteria (everyone has it on their head its a fact of life) this will get into the EPS and it will start to degrade over a period of time (maybe a year or two) and go 'hard'....you wont notice as it will be a subtle difference....wont notice until it really matters that is. A new helmet with an unaffected EPS liner is preferable because.....its like putting a tennis ball on your head and hitting it with a hammer, the energy of the impact is absorbed by the soft ball.....a helmet with an old/used EPS liner would be like putting a cricket ball on your head and hitting it with a hammer....the load would transmit to the head....and we know what they can mean. A customer of ours came into our shop having bought 'a bargain too good to miss' and the rep from that Co (HJC) said once the customer had left that the helmet in question had not been in their range for 7 years (it was brand new)..... Not trying to scare anyone just trying to educate......hope this helps when it comes to making a decision

Grouch.....I may be able to help you....we used to own a motorcycle clothing and accessory shop on Wirral and have some helmets left over. They are brand new but would need to know a few more details from you. The most important thing about a helmet is the fit......end of! The best way to look at the cost of a helmet is to use a car analogy......if you needed to travel from Land's End to John O'Groats and had the choice of two cars, a bog standard Fiesta or say a top of the range Merc which one would you choose? They will both get you there but clearly one will get you there in a greater degree of comfort.....adversely if you you only had a 5 mile journey to make each way why would you need the Merc because you wouldnt be in it long enough for its creature comforts to make a difference........ A £50 lid will do the job provided it is accredited but the more expensive will offer a more a greater level of comfort......but......unless it fits properly it doesnt matter what you pay for it it wont do the job of saving your life if it needs too

Ahh have you spied the front wheel of the little C90 Cub that I whet my appetite on?