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Chunche

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  • Current Bike(s)
    1980 DT175, 2010 Triumph Street Triple R, 1978 Honda CB750, 1998 Kawasaki Ninja 250

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    Male
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    Seattle, WA

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  1. Hi All, I've been slowly working on a 1980 DT175 and finally got it up and running a few weeks ago. It is an absolute blast to ride. I took it completely down to the frame the other day to clean 30 years worth of oil, mud and god knows what else off of it. As I was putting it back together last night, I noticed one of the tabs on the rectifier felt really loose. Low and behold, when I slid the wire on the tab snapped right off. I know I can get a new OEM unit from eBay or the local dealership, but my question is can I get a cheap replacement piece from Radio shack or somewhere similar? I understand what the rectifier does, and it's needed to convert AC to DC power for running lights and the horn, but I don't know if all rectifiers are equal. Somewhere deep in the internet I found this unit referenced -- will that work for what I need? Anyone happen to know any cheap automotive ones I could pick up from O'Reilly's or the like? I'm not asking simply because I'm being cheap -- I finally got the bike running and I want to ride the damn thing! Whether I get an OEM one from eBay or the dealership, they're at least a week out. The motor will run without the rec unit, but I don't want a ticket for no headlight/tail light on my first ride. Thanks in advance for any advice.
  2. Hello all, Some of you helped me figure out the few months ago, and the switch over went beautifully. I've now got the bike to start and even go around the block a few times, but I just can't get it tuned right. This bike sat for a long time, and when I got it, I got it started and running but the carb had serious issues. I pulled it apart and cleaned it multiple times but no matter what the slide would stick open. It got so frustrating that I went on ebay and purchased this cheap little carb for $27. I'm wondering if this cheap carb is the source of my problems. It will start after a few kicks with the choke on, and idles. After it warms up a bit, I can close the choke and it still idles. Give it gas and the revs build, then come back down accordingly. However, when actually riding it bogs down and is absolutely gutless , until it hits 4,500 RPM (in every gear). I've reset the air screw and floats according to the manual, and tried adjusting and makes no difference. I popped the left side cover off, and sprayed some WD-40 to check for leaky crank seals, but didn't seem to make a difference. I found an actual Mikuni carb on ebay for $70 that I can buy, but any thoughts on what else I should try before I drop the money on that? Also, I don't know as it makes a difference but there is no auto-oil pump on this bike (someone before me removed it). I've got pre-mix in their, but I don't remember off the top of my head what ratio I put in.
  3. I'm going to pick up a torque wrench to make sure it's tightened correctly as well. I've needed one for a while anyways, this is a good excuse to buy a new tool
  4. Soooo I got the magneto and stator out of both, but the woodruff key is sheared in the motor I'm trying to use. So tomorrow night's project will be attempting to remove what's left of the sheared key and ordering a new one.
  5. Thanks all, Gotta love the smell of an old 2-stroke
  6. Ah, yup I missed that section, remedied now . I'll give switching the magneto's tomorrow. Not sure if that's the only part I'll have to switch between the bikes, but I'm sure I'll figure it out when I get them apart.
  7. Hello All, I was recently gifted a 1980 DT175 that's been sitting for some time, and am now in the process of getting it road worthy again. I've found lots of great information on this site, and am joining up to ask questions and contribute where I can. So far it's been an awesome resource!
  8. Hello all, I did a search on this topic but couldn't find a definitive answer. From what I've read there were different versions of the DT175 as far as wiring from the magneto to the CDI (a 5 wire and a 7 wire). Question is, could I simply switch the magneto unit between motors? A little backstory -- I was given a 1980 DT175 from a family member that had been sitting. It ended up needing a new cylinder/piston and instead I bought an entire running motor off ebay. After putting the motor in, I noticed it had less wires coming from the magneto than the motor I took out. Which led me to some google sluething and this website, where I've found some great info on the electrical systems for the DT175. So rather than purchasing a different CDI (which is what I think I would need?), I'm hoping I can combine the parts currently in my basement to get the electrical squared away. I hope that all makes sense, I'm fine with the mechanical components of engines but start talking electrical and I'm quickly lost.
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