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IKE last won the day on September 20 2015

IKE had the most liked content!

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  • Current Bike(s)
    Current - XJ900F (1992) Previous - Honda 750 F1, CB350, Norton 850 Commando, Yamaha TR2B racer, 250 Bultaco scrambler, BSA 500 A7, Triumph Terrier, Ariel Colt.

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    Retired now but used to be a gliding instructor, and NPPL holder. Got some woodwork tools to play with when not working on my bike project.

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  1. Thanks Slice. The way I see it is "every job done is one less to do" ha ha.
  2. Hi Noise, looks like you've had a fair go at all the right things here. I have a 1992 XJ900F so my experience might not apply to your model. Check that the starter gear has not engaged and is stuck there. If you have a couple of helpers, can you try a bump-start? That will confirm the engine's ability to run (especially if it turns by hand - not seized). My model has a daft wee switch at the side-stand to prevent the engine starting if the side stand is down, but if that's duff, I don't think you would get a click at the relay - and this might not be fitted to your model. Although very unusual, you might have just been given a dud battery (I had one in a brand new car!) What about jump leads from another battery? Definitely a beard-scratcher.
  3. Hi everyone, here's an update of my progress this summer. I know it's slow but I'm also building a dry-stone wall and deep into other DIY stuff. Anyway, I've now got the swinging arm (new bearings), rear suspension, steering head (new bearings) and both wheels (new oil seals) all fitted and she is standing on her wheels again. Next jobs on the list are grinding in the valves and rebuilding the rear brake callipers and system.
  4. Hi Marshall, before I give you my thoughts, let me say that I have a 1992 XJ900F (32,000 miles) in the process of restoration (you can see my - slow - progress if you follow my thread). Anyway, your 1994 model is newer than mine so there might be some differences. So, I'm not convinced this is an electrical issue, although it'll do no harm changing the plugs. When you take them out, check the colour of the electrodes against the, very useful, colour chart in the Haynes manual (or online). That will show you if there are any fuel issues - as a minimum, they should all be the same colour. If not, then you could have carburettor balancing work to do. Also, with the plugs out turn the engine over and check for a spark - you are looking for a nice bright blue spark, and they should all be the same colour too. On my model, there are two coils, each firing two cylinders so if you get two good sparks and two duds, that could point to one of the coils. It would be unusual for both coils to die so if you get no spark, check all the way back to the switch - but first check the side-stand switch as they can be problematic, especially if water gets into the switch - it's low down so is prone to water ingress. If you have let the fuel level drop too low, there could be debris from the bottom of the tank and this can sometimes clog the carb jets, and that will cause balancing issues, which can be shown up by the plug colours, as mentioned above. My model has the YICS (Yamaha Induction Control System) and this can often lead to fuel/carburettor issues, although if left alone they are normally fine. It's only when they get "checked" that problems arise. This is a port that runs across the engine between the carburettors and the main block. This port links all four cylinders and is designed to overcome minor carburettor imbalance by allowing fuel from one carb to cross feed its neighbour. Hope this helps, check those plugs first then the side-stand switch before you tackle a full blown electrics strip-down. Good luck
  5. Hi, I have been browsing another site and spotted a vague reference to an electrode heated ratchet socket set used to heat specific areas of nuts/bolts to aid removal. I've done the usual Google/YouTube searches but can't find anything. I'm doing a restoration of an XJ900F (see projects section) and, although I don't need one of these heated thingies at the moment, I think it could be a useful tool to have. Has anyone seen or heard of anything like this? Thanks
  6. No idea Drewpy. They have just appeared with my last photos and seem to go with all my posts now. I can't even edit and delete them away. I think I have followed the normal procedure to post images - after an earlier "senior moment", but not sure what's causing these. I've updated my iPad to iOS 9 so there might be a bug in there somewhere.
  7. Thanks Kev. Progress is slow but great fun and, hopefully, I'm saving this old girl from the breakers yard.
  8. Hiya Rembrant and welcome to the forum. I am restoring a 1991/2 XJ900F - check out the projects section if you are interested in seeing what I'm doing. Look for XJ900F - Getting a new home. Good luck with your own XJ.
  9. Thanks Slice, next job is to fit the hub to the swinging arm and then get the rear wheel on.
  10. Earlier readers may remember that I was having a problem with multi-coats of lacquer on the final drive hub, so here's an update... I slapped on some Nitromores then used a plastic scraper to remove the bubbled up lacquer (Health & Safety precautions - blah blah blah). I used one of those black nylon scrubbing/scouring pads lubricated with WD40 to remove the dried excess on the large flat areas. This worked well but I needed to use my Dremmel to get into those tight corners. I bought a couple of Dremmel scouring wheels (2 in a pack for around £5) but these were soon worn out so I sourced a pack of 40 from Hong Kong for around £10. These wore out just as quickly but at least I had a large stock of them. As the grunge was removed, I saw that there were lots of spanner/hammer dings so I decided that a mirror finish would not be possible without removing a fair amount of alluminium. A final clean with some alloy cleaner and a buff up seems to have produced an acceptable finish.
  11. Hi Jimmy, tried via Photoshop but although it goes through the motions the image doesn't appear. I use an iPad and have just upgraded to ios9 so there might be something needs tweaking in there.
  12. OK, thanks Jimmy - I'll give that a go.
  13. I was just about to post an update with a couple of photos but I'm getting a message saying I am limited to 190k for attachments. Is there any way to increase this or do I need to remove earlier photos? cheers
  14. Just a quick update... I heated the exhaust collector box with a small propane burner then, with the assistance of my neighbour, we gently rotated each pipe and they eventually came out. Good advice not to use a vice or clamp so as not to damage the pipes - thanks guys. I noticed that the collector box is not in a good condition but that's fairly small item if it needs to be replaced. For earlier readers, you'll remember that I had a broken exhaust stud-hole in my cylinder head. I took it to a bike friendly alloy wheel repair man and he filled it, drilled and tapped it and fitted a new exhaust stud - all for £30. A brilliant job and I am now getting ready to overhaul the head and grind the valves. Happy Days
  15. Thanks guys, I've got a small propane blow lamp so I'll try that in the next few days. I wonder why only one of the inlet pipes to the collector box is split and clamped - why not all four? Hey Ho...
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