mcferreira100

Can anyone explain the difference between adjusting a throttle needle up/down versus the airscrew on the carb? The way I understand is they are both affecting air fuel ratio.

So done 300km so far. Was worried its not smoking enough so discovered the spring behind autolube pump wasn't in properly. This was fouling the pump preventing it from actuating all the way (good thing I decided to add some oil to the tank at least while running in. Put spring back properly and happy to see she`s chewing oil now..in fact light went on today so need to top up. Been advised to set throttle needles up one notch as she seems to be wanting more air (adjusted aircrews 2.5 turns out and it ran better). Flat spots between 3500-4500rpm and after 6500rpm. Have decided to paint tank and plastics later..first want to run this bad boy in to see what she can do.

fettled all day to get sum sorta setup for this accelerator pump to work properly. Played a bit with float setting..still starting easier...(4 kicks instead of 40). I`m noticing this..it seems to pull fine when cold..but soon as it warms up the flat spot comes back??

Nope..thats not an option.

Well bent the tang and its definitely starting easier. But still huge flat spot 3-4500rpm. Cleaned carb again..but that damn accelerator pump got me wondering...wish I could just bypass the damn thing. What about valve adjustment?

Anyone have any other comments on this float level tang story? Considering Boxer`s comments I feel like just bending it back a bit to see if it helps as this carb is a pig to get off again. I haven`t mentioned here the bike once started idles ok but has huge flat spots in lower rev range. Got to pin the throttle to get it going.

Havent checked plugs yet. What I should have added its running smooth in high gear before 3500rpm (cruising on flat or downhill). Obviously not much power then..I gear down before getting to uphill sections. Then just taking it to 5-7000rpm first 3 gears on each pullaway..and gearing down now and then while cruising. Almost done 200km now.

I`m not worried about getting more power out of it..just this flat spot between 3500 and 4000rpm makes it awkward to ride as its running at that rev range at cruising speed. Its jerking and has no power between those revs. Also bit worried about autolube setup as it doesn`t seem to be smoking much (not that I would know how much they should smoke). Must check manual and maybe adjust cable bit tighter. Will feel more comfortable adding a little 2stroke to tank during run in period.

Well didn`t expect good mileage but its only doing 31mpg on last fillup. Spec on these bikes is 43mpg (that`s probly if u cruising all day long at decent speeds). But sure it will get better once run in.

Turned airscrews in 1/2 turn and it was worse. Turned them out to 2.5 turns from all the way in and its MUCH better. So she`s wanting more air. He must have meant its running too rich..it does seem to have been guzzling fuel. So wondering should I still set throttle needles one notch up.

You make sense DT50 as it was advertised as an 82 from the seller. Will check the plugs after some more mileage. Motor also needs to loosen up as well I guess. Asked the guy who did my engine to take it for a spin to see how its going as he knows the RD`s, he reckoned the rev counter was running slow..not sure how much slower..maybe due to it standing so long. Is this possible? Front brake is fixed.

Cant replace everything as I don`t have a money tree in my back yard. Seems ok now with new locking bolt in there.

Engine completely overhauled so running it in and was advised to go no higher than 7000rpm thru 1st 2nd and 3rd for 1000km. So taking it very easy right now. Not even done 100km yet on new motor. Check my thread RD350LC Stood 20 years. Its the early 4LO serial which should make it 80-81. If its normal to have this miss then its fine..just want to be sure. What about turning in airscrews?..at the moment they`re set 1.5 turns out.

Bike missing around 3-4000rpm and was advised its running bit lean. So was advised further to adjust throttle needle 1 notch up to 2nd from top (its on 3rd middle notch right now). Thought I could just adjust airscrew for richer mix. Would like some opinions on this.

Another fun day with the RD. Gear lever came loose so couldn't select any. Next to the road worked it until I got second then limped home (I already ran out of fuel once and had to push it uphill against a sticking front brake..got good workout there) Splines on shaft not so good anymore and fastening bolt was also stripped (noticed it didn`t tighten very well during assembly. So stuck a washer behind the gear lever to get it sitting on good part of shaft and new bolt in there..good and tight..should be ok now but will keep some tools on the bike. Then its ok on flats and downhill but once putting load going uphill she soon dies. Wait few seconds then she starts..so she not getting enough fuel. Noticed awhile ago she wouldn't start until I opened fuel cap. So must be breather on cap..removed cap..stuck a rag in there and went for test ride up same hill..mo problem. So stripped the cap to find lot of gunk in there. Cleaned out and reassembled..tested and seems ok now. Will take it for further run tomorrow.

Yea bit of a blonde moment there..no biggie.

Very happy..got brakes sorted. First bled both side calipers some more. Got little more air out but essentially didn`t make a difference. So removed caliper where disc was getting hot. Removed pads and pressed in piston with a g-glamp. Worked brake lever and used clamp to push back few times. Noticed piston was pulling back slightly when releasing brake lever so master cylinder return hole must be ok. Treated pin that calipers move on with more anti-seize compound as well as a little oil. Mounted caliper again and brakes were ok. Sorry for dark pic but bike is in the garage now. Now must just make some more throttle cable adjustments. Frikin rain won`t stop and I need to take this bad boy for a good spin.

Surely if only one side disc getting hot it points to the caliper not the master cylinder.

Er...don`t u have volume control Slice?..it will be loud as its standing in enclosed area. On first startup idling screws were completely out so revs shot to 4500rpm and stayed there. So that sorted as you can see in the video. Took it for a spin and bike feels nice and solid..not its age..specially the gearbox..feels like new still. Starting very easy and idling beautifully..gauges all working nicely including temp gauge(speedo and tacho not bouncing all over like the DT`s) Needs some fine tuning as she bogs down a bit if I try give it the beans. I`m sure I adjusted the throttle cables out of sync while sorting the high revving out. Might need a new dipstick as it became cross threaded so had to force it back in. Only major problem is the brakes which are not releasing..one side disc getting very hot..they feel a little spongy too so think I need to bleed some more to start off with. Someone mentioned a return hole which could be plugged on the master cylinder (would like to know exactly where it is and how one do I clean it).I did not do anything to the master cylinder in the rebuild.

Started pretty easy..though finding the tank cap seems to cause an airlock. Thought I had a coolant leak until I noticed the barrel drain bolt for coolant not tightened properly. My main hassle is after checking oil, the dipstick has become cross threaded..so can`t get the bugger to screw in properly again. Here`s a utube URL of it running.

I`ve put this stuff in. All the lubes were Motul. Saw this on UTube. Seems to have cured the float needle problem. Earbud with some Brasso and give it a polish in there..then clean out with some compression stabilizer and carb cleaner (guy used a drill on the earbud to get a mirror finish). Carbs went on today..should be able to go for a start tomorrow once carbs synced and inline fuel filters and lines on.

Crap cold weather here today..but decided to check out that hose. Helps to get the pipe the right way round..my bad. And fitted exhausts..with those expensive new gaskets I might add. Also topped up engine oil. Got a question with the coolant. Will mix coolant 50/50 with distilled water but what is top up procedure??..all straight into radiator..or coolant tank or both?

Will have to see where that master cyl bleed hole is..was thinking once I take it down the road and work the brakes it should sort itself out. The hose sat ok when it came off..I`ll fiddle it some more from rad side..sure I can get it better. In 2 minds whether to replace float valves..they are ridiculously expensive..but can u trust them after standing so long? (and I`m a worse cheapskate than Slice). Got them soaking in fresh fuel to see if they get better.

Engine back in. Got some 2stroke in the tank to bleed the pump. Bit concerned with this radiator hose not wanting to sit nicely. Some other concerns: Got the chain back on so have a rolling chassis again. Find front brakes not releasing..hoping they will bed themselves in once on the go. One carb float valve is sticking. Soaked it in compression stabilizer but might still block fuel flow to carb. Carbs going on tomorrow..might go for a start on the weekend.

MY ENGINE IS BACK!!! So got onto painting straight away. Listing of work done: Crank webs, bearings and seals replaced Head skimmed Conrods..big/small ends replaced Barrels bored out 1mm oversize Pistons and rings replaced All engine as well as waterpump seals replaced Pic of old parts Some pics after engine paint Engine going in tomorrow.