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    DTR125 2001

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  1. Ok so someone said if I don't turn the tap off its normal but I don't think this is true as it never did it before ?
  2. So am I right in thinking that what you mean is , because my dad has welded a small area of the chamber , its not all the same thickness now and so there's probably some sort of leak causing the more sound and loss of power? Alternatively. , because one part is now weakened it vibrates more making more sound and probably messing with the back force that the chamber provides ? Sorry not sure what u mean u weren't really specific , you just said that the standard chamber is dual layered , but obviously before the hole it as alright so I've taken my own assumptions based on that its a dual layered chamber ?
  3. So I was driving along like an idiot had a lil off the line race with another dtr, I got too near my house when the exhaust made a deep grunt , next thing I look and there is a hole in the exhaust next to the manifold ( I think that's what its called ) ( the bit near to the piston ) so my dad took the thing to work , welded it back as a temporary fix until I get a new expansion chamber , now before the bike was quiet and had more power , now its loud , the power valve is defonetely functional , I know they're generally louder when pinned open , the valve still works its just lost overall grunt and isn't as quiet ? Any ideas ? Has my dad restricted it somehow , or is it just because he's welded it and its probably weaker resulting in some sort of minor hole / power loss ?
  4. My bike is a European import 2001 model , the back end is considerably higher than for example my cousins dtr and the seat a lot longer , It looks a lot more aesthetically pleasing than the lower AMD shorter versions , the smaller ones look like pit bikes with a sort of chopper look , but with slightly less angled forks , or Atleast similar to a pit bike I once owned , I'm not complaining I like it how it is but just wandered if anybody could shed some light on the issue
  5. Thanks yea ill probably just keep it as it is , just wanted more out of the gears , 1st gear on a dt is pretty short
  6. I notice that my bike Boggs down at top end with the standard 16:57 set up , I am not trying to get more top end as I know that they aren't designed for 70mph plus , but what I would like is to get more out of each gear and I figure that I would have a wider / more of a power band with the 19 tooth along with just generally more speed / distance in each gear ? Anybody tried this ? Any advice ?
  7. Guy I bought bike off said that he replaced the wheel and they just popped out so I replaced them then they both popped out again and now a further 6 have just popped out I got a new wheel but just wanted to see if I could make sure it didn't happen again
  8. I finnaly got the right Alan key to undo the power valve pulley cover on my dtr 125 , I found that the wires had been disconnected and wedged open. Then while trying to find a better position too hook it up to , and testing it out to see how I would like to set it up, I ran out of petrol, didn't take it off reserve prrevious day as didn't really fill it up much. I then wheeled it to petrol station without putting the cover back on for the pulley, and the screw must of came lose to the pulley think I may have fitted the wrong screw earlier as was getting dark I rushed. I now have no pulley and the power valve closes even if I find the open.spot by turning the "diamond" by hand. Gets hot too. Now I'm forced to drive at low revs gives it a scooter like feel the least amount of throttle is faster than more throttle.(as the valve .is closed it won't let much airr expel from the exhaust) so the lower revs work better than higher.) But suprisingly I can pull up a.hill.in 6th easily from literally a mm or 2 of throttle with a lil momentum behind me . This is until I can buy a new pulley next week, does anybody know if I need to rejet or possibly stop using my bike till I get it sorted don't want to melt the piston if that is.possible. And also does anybody know if my bike a 98-03 dt needs to have a wire earthed to stop the power valve retarding. I know this is the case for 04+ models mines a 2001 model .
  9. what ? ive just loooked at your topics and all it has is pictures of bike frames and then sumthing about ethanol
  10. and how do i stop it from cutting out if thats the case?
  11. thanks yeah thats the one , been reading so much stuff i got it mixed up, yeah trouble is i have an imported one i think the manuals all foreign writing and its not got mph on speedo its kph , so i dont ever know exactly how fast im going i think unless hes rigged it before but i aint sure and cant trust that also have no rev meter its got the wires cut, thanks thats helped a bit , but do u or does anybody know if the power valve cuts out at a certain rpm have read it does on some models not sure about mine?
  12. i understand the power valve and how it works but i have read that there are restrictions in the power valve system in my model , my range were apparantly the first ones to come with a fully working power valve but pin it either open or closed and where the power valve stops working at a certain rpm, i have noticed on mine that it seems to sort of build up slowly, unless you rag it obviously, if im in too high of a gear just to give me more time to observe , it sort of pulls nicely but at low revs , slowly building up, where u get a sudden burst of power , but then if u keep trying to push the gear further revving more it loses power, surrely it should keep the power up if my power valve was fully working, i know theres a time to change gear but shouldnt lose power should it ??? im thinking that it could be the valve is pinned and the burst of power is the maximum rev range that it can give power for at that range, ??? any ideas? how should a dtr 125 with a servo power valve run with the ypvs system fully working ? Also does anybody know if there is a restricion where the valve stops working at a certain revs , if so , how do i take out this restriction?
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