kenDAWG
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Posts posted by kenDAWG
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sorry bud i dont hammer bike until its warm, you be lucky if im anywhere near 4500rpm through the gears after initial 5-10mins warm up...
all im saying is the clutch plates still have alot of friction with the oil being cold on my bike which is in a little tin hut at the bottom of my garden, i would have to warm it up for 20 mins if i wanted to thrash it off the bat but i dont neither do i have time nor the neighbours or my little girl for the tinny noise of a 2 smoker at 6am
i paid £1.5k for my dt and i aint gonna abuse it - thinner oil for winter is all it needs and would it not be a good idea to change oil atleast twice a year if so then you could easy replace oil with change in weather/tempretures.
ken
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Am I correct In thinking that when the temperature outside drops the oil becomes more thick which Is causing the clutch plates some friction?
This is happening to me on my dt125r at 6.00am on way to work but disappears after warmed up!
I'm looking into thinner oil for winter.
This is what I was told anyway!
Cheers
Ken
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Hi there!
I too passed my cbt on a sr125
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good idea
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have you ever seen a mackem in milan?
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hello there
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this has been one of the best forums i have signed up to, full of decent people
i do belive the other forums wich cover a wider region of bikes (some i am a member of under different name) seem to be full of people with chips on there shoulders only ever wanting to sprout there point of view and bash people constantly for arguing a different point- there full of kids!
you could have said nothing and went, instead you stamp your feet and throw your toys all over...
just shut the door quietly on the way
ken
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thanks for that, i do belive the led indicators need some kinda resistor to regulate the flash...
ill have to look deeper into this-there are alot of led rear lights but there not be used as single/main light more of a add on to exsisting lights
cheers
ken
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hello again people.
im toying with the idea of changing the light setup on the rear of my bike, at the moment its completely standard (dt125r) and the indicators are like fog lights off a mk1 fiesta "there massive" also the rear light and plate bracket look horrible and bulky.
im looking at a tail tidy and some small LED indicators, but with my dt the rear light is part of the plastic plate hanger - ive seen a few dt's where the rear light is on top of mudgaurd where as mine is below and again its massive i think this is to make way for the rack (which i want to keep to strap my jerry can onto for green lainging)
i would like a small slimline rear brake light i can mount under the rear mudgaurd above numberplate
i have no ideas if i need to change anything over to help with voltage or not?
anyone point me in the direction for the rear brake light?
just trying to tone things down so its more minimalistic and not ott....
any advice is welcome
cheers
ken
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makes it more personal yeh i can dig that - unfortuantly i dont have the privilage of time these days so i have to sell my old nsr jc20 1992 i was restoring!
good luck pal
cheers
ken
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aye lets no talk a boot the toon match eh? lol
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i know what you are on about with the lines and angles, im a lover of the older classic cars but i am not a person to say its ugly by far would like to call myself open minded... but i do find turbo bikes very interesting!!
also i think when you are standing next to a bike you can appreciate its beauty rather than a pic.
would like to see one its its glory...
good going so far
ken
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Yz not sure if it is a 80 or a 85 lol what bike you riding
dt125r.. nothing exciting really lol
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not keen on the look of these bikes but i do find them interesting being turbo versions...
honestly didnt know they used to strap turbos to bike, why did they stop??
good luck on the project bud ill be watching this
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welcome, i live near blaydon!!
what bike you riding?
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From your post above it says the piston is forged,so the only ? is how much more wieght is or is not being added.As in the same post it states that the barrel will be replated,, so you have no bore over options.Just replace the ring yearly and if it get dammaged you have to replate the barrel.
I am not sure if you stock barrel is nickelsil if it is than you have no over bore avilable now,, if it's dammaged then your looking at a new barrel or haveing it replated and that not cheap either way.
ok man i got that, thanx for your help...
ill fire a couple of questions to the seller see what he says!!
cheers
ken
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If done properly the comperssion ratio will stay the same with either the 150 or 170 kit.Thats why they want the head to reshape the squish area of the head.They most likely will chuck it in a lathe and remove whats nessary to keep the compression the same due to the flat top pistion,
The compression ratio is caculated by the area left when the piston is at TDC.It's been quite a while since I have done it I would have to look up the exact formula but it something like swept volume-total volume.My budy has a ktm125 with a factory 135 kit and what a different bike it's is.
It's not the compression that would kill the bottom end it's the added weight,if the pistion is forged vs the stock cast it might weigh the same that would be my? to ask the guy doing the work.
very helpfull post indeed...
you see i dont want much cc i just want a little bit more hp so i can go up a tooth on the front sprocket - im not into the bike screeming at 60mph so i would like a little bit snappy for greenlaining and a little more topend for road use!
so in your opinion the rebore is something worth investigating further? find out what the piston is made of?
cheers
ken
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cynic you can hoy that elbow greese up your clacker valve i got my own!!!
anyway on a serious note the feelings are that its a waste of money and the fact my little bikes bottom end might not be able to handle the compression...
hmmmm...
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i will worry about the insurance once i make a decission, im more worried about my mortgage to be honest lol...
i just thought the 150cc would be less strain on the bottom end than the 170cc but i suppose there is more factors involved than just cc gain.
ken
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sorry yes i know that the head gets skimmed and barrel gets bored out just a little drunk after watching the newcastle v sunderland match
so the bottom end might not be able to handle the compression on the rebore and skim?
what about the 170cc kit im sure the compression would be more with this kit?
i seriously done know just looking into my options!
ken
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well if its blue-print it will have its ports tweaked and everything am i correct?
still think £400 is a lot though considering its a re-bore of your own cylinder, and not a pistion/gaskets/cylinder/head and barings. and even if it was i still think £400 was a bit much.
cant really see how a re bore tweak + piston would be much more than £250 personally. But i could just be being cheap again.
id probably "if i needed a rebore" just go up the 0.50 or or whatever the next available size is and get the piston/rings for that.
i dont think that would be any where near as expensive as 400.
as far as im aware it is a cylinder and head rebore along with all gaskets and small end barings...
im not sure what blue print means-ill have to look into that.
its the same price as a athena 170 topend then obviously tou get a whole new topened "no rebore"
i know its expensive but im worried the 170 will destroy me bottom end, crank and barings etc
ken
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yeh its expensive, this is from his listing
"
We are pleased to offer this excellent replacement 150cc GP Big Bore Kit
This is a 150CC GP Big Bore Kit
Its the most POWERFUL kit you can buy
Comes with a forged, single ring RACING PISTON, converted to flat top.
Also Includes your head remachined, Especially designed for the 150 Kit.
Barrel is Blue Printed, BORED and RE-PLATED.
Comes Complete with TOP END GASKET set and SMALL END BEARING.
You need to send your barrel to us for the work to be carred out"
ken
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we can all sit here and talk about what ifs... who knows??
all i do is research things to find out if they are suitable for purchase, if i ask questions the seller cant answer then i wont go near it however i might stick with the 125 cylinder or i might look into the athena 170 topened.
if i open the topend up and find cylinder isnt damaged chances are i will replace piston/ring with small barings and save up for athena 170.
everything is not set in stone but i can see your point on the bore out, he is wanting near £400 for the service aswell which is about same price as athena kit was just thinking which of the two would be the better more reliable option over standard?
cheers
ken
2003 YZ125 ROAD LEGAL - WANTS TO RIDE OFF WITHOUT YOU WHILST IDLEING IN FIRST GEAR (CLUTCH FULLY IN)
in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes
Posted
to be fair its been reaching very low temps through the night and at 6am its still really bitter where i live!
im sure it was below zero with thick fog last week, i live a 5 min walk from the river tyne!!
there in my opinion us 2 options here adjust your clutch cable and/or change oil or just do them both and report back to us and let us know how you got on...
ryan09 i can understand why you think its not cold enough in uk and i dont mind people putting there argument/point of veiw across thats what this forum is for but do it again and i shall hunt you down and make you hurt lol only joking
i had a 50cc automatic 2stroke a week or so back that wouldnt move off the spot revved up etc but no movement i couldnt fathem it out then a mate of mine that used to race 2 strokes changed the oil to thinner stuff and off it went - me scratching head wtf???
that prompted him to tell me that in the winter if i plan on using my bike (which i do with winter tyres on) i would prob need to change the oil especially once its reaching sub 0 temps.
i only get problems with mine until i do a few gear changes and the plates are warmed up but when i first engage gear it jumps then creeps until it either stalls or i pull away the 2 mins down the road at the next junction its fine, i know its gonna get worse the colder it gets so gonna order some new oil soon.
cheers
ken