rossr

Still working on running in my new XVS650....now 500k. It is a bit hard to start and takes a few seconds to settle on cold start-up, gearbox clunky. I am trying to do all the right things re. 'running-in' but have also: Contacted Yamaha to see if I can drain/change the original engine oil to my preferred MOTUL 4T MA SL 15w50. They say change it if you like but stay with a straight mineral oil for the full 1,000...so I will. I have changed the plugs to NGK Iridium and gone just one grade colder as it is a new eng. and a warm climate here in Cairns. The original DPR7EA9 with DPR8EIX9. Ignition can only improve- just a matter of degree??? I use FlashLube Valve Saver (Lead replacement) fuell additive in my car. I contacted Flash Lube and had a good yarn to the bloke there. I have now added FlashLube to the bike tank. Even while running in the 1ml per 1 litre of fuel cannot do any harm. Over the long term however it does pay to use an upper cylinder lube and valve cleaning agent. FlashLube say that after running in the high heat and revs. levels will benifit from 2ml per 1 litre. Only use 95 Octane lead free by the way. In a perfect world I will have a real smooth running sucker after a few more K and a change to better oils. Cheers rossr

Know nil about bikes but auto parts prices, bearings in particular will vary dramatically depending on: 1. Country of manufacture/quality. eg Japan, China. 2. Marketing/distribution. eg. an NSK Bearing in a Yamaha box MIGHT be double the price of the same bearing in an NSK box from your local bearing house/distributor. If that bearing is a 'special' amd unique to the Yamaha application then you cannot do much about it. Cheers Ross Rolley

Hi mate, My first post did not seem to work??? I have a brand new 2011 XVS650A Custom. There is a hold right near the bottom of the case just behind and below as you say. About 10mm and deel threaded. rossr

A bit more I found re MA oils. The JASO MA2 approval is the top motorcycle specification currently available and ensure that this two new oils are the cutting edge of motorcycle lubricant technology. The JASO MA and MA2 specifications are the only true motorcycle specific approvals available and as such are a sign that the oil has passed stringent motorcycle performance tests. Tests include the crucial clutch friction test allowing safe, predictable use in wet clutch applications. Both products also offer outstanding gear protection . The JASO stands for 'Japanese Automotive Standards Organization', Japanese counterpart to say the United States SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) organization?! Note that the MA2 oil is also API SM rated though only seems to be available in 2 grades. I like the 15w50 for our hot weather. rossr

Hi all, Bit of a long story. tis worth it as selecting the right oil for your bike engine is critical. See my post to-day under Yamaha Workshop 'Oils aint Oils'. I know bugger all about bikes but a bit about oil. Hence my posted questions. Very important on air cooled apps. running very hot I would imagine. Years ago I did a course with ESSO as a new Servo dealer. My explanation from my old memory as follows. Understand that 'viscosity' is the ability of a fluid to flow. Different orgs. do diff. tests but SAE set this by timing how many seconds it takes for a given fluid to flow thru a specific orifice at a specific temperature. SAE 30 takes 30 seconds. API (American Petroleum Institute) also issue results for a wide range of tests like friction, water absorbtion, holding solids in suspension, anti sludge, etc. as a result of using ever improving additives and 'Synthetic' oils. They then give a particular oil a rating for both petrol and diesel applications. The 'S?' like SL is petrol. The 'C?' like CD is for diesel. Hence an SM grade oil is a 'better' oil than SL etc. We need to be aware that an automotive SL oil is NOT suitable for a Yamaha bike as it does not have additional additives that provide protection under extreme pressure. ie clutch and gearbox. I use MOTUL 4T MA SL 15w50 here in Cairns. The 'MA' bit is the bike certification. 15w50 because of our temp. Years ago we only had one choice. A 'mono grade' oil as specified by SAE...say SAE 30. Typically this is still used as a 'running-in 'oil. Reason being that piston rings will 'glaze' the cylinder walls when a hi perf. oil is used resulting in oil burning. The rings need time to 'bed in', say 1,000k before we move on to a hi quality product. Then came duo grade oils....about 50 years ago. Say 30w40 courtesy of technology called friction modifiers (VIIP -Viscosity Index Improvers), that managed to improve the viscosity index. All oils thin out when heated. A 30w40 is the same vis. as a SAE 30 at room?? temp. BUT is no thinner than SAE40 at operating temp. Multigrade oils say 15w50 are similar. Same as SAE 15 at room temp., but still as thick as SAE50 at operating temp. Hence we get the benifit of a thin oil getting into all the right places on a cold start, but still providing the protection of a thicker SAE50 when operating. Hope this helps. rossr (Ross Rolley)

Been some talk on this. See my post 'Oils aint oils' to-day Yamaha Workshop. Use the right stuff. rossr

Yep..hear what you say and will not do anything rash. Hence this query. Flushing the final drive and filling with better oil could not, I hope, have anything other than a benifical outcome. I will do it again at the 1,000k mark as it only requires 190ml. To change the engine oil is a different matter. On warranty generally I understand that a supplier could not refuse FOC repairs simply because another party had worked on the vehicle. It would need to be shown that the particular claim was a consequence of that work. Simpe example- if the starter motor on my bike failed, then Yamaha could not refuse to repair the problem because I had changed the final drive oil. The two actions are not related. However, I agree fully that we need to be careful as errors can be expensive. Thanks for the interest. rossr

I have a new XVS650 Custom. Yamaha recommend engine oil change at 1000k and apparently there is a 'running-in' oil in it for this time. Is this correct? I love fresh clean oil in any engine and I am tempted to change to a API SL 15w50 MOTUL 3100 Gold 'MA' -asap??? I understand re. using MA oils as the wet clutch and gearbox requires the hi pressure additives etc. for that application. But what about 'running-in' a new bike. Like a car engine where the bore will glaze if a hi quality multi grade oil is used in a new engine?? And what about the gearbox and a 'running in' oil?? If that is what is in fact used. I have flushed and changed the oil in the Final Drive. Recommendation is SAE 80 API GL4 and I assume that is what is in it when new. I used a 75w90 API GL5 and am confident that will be OK. Any comments appreciated. Thanks heaps. New to bikes!!!!! rossr (Ross Rolley- Cairns)

It seems riding schools are keen to teach us new guys how to STOP, as the assumption is we will manage OK to get going. I just traded up from a 250 Virago to a new XVS650. I was surprised to find how less effective the rear brake is on the new bike. Is this usual. Is there any thing I can do to improve braking???or any suggestions about my operating? When not an emergency, (say approaching lights), I tend to slow down by using foot brake and changing down. usually only use front brakes when a more urgent situation requiring a strong STOP is necessary. New to this so any suggestions appreciated. Thanks Rossr

Hi all, Name is Ross Rolley here in the far north, Cairns. Just traded a near new 250 Virago after only a cew months on a new XVS650. Could not resist. Now I need to learn as much as I can as soon as I can...unless the present rain continues for yet a few more weeks and keeps me off the road. I am 65 yo and new to all this. I have had a lic. all my life but have not been on a bike for say 45 yrs. Even then it was for but a few short rides on gravel... a small Suzuki from memory. Cheers