KJP

So Guys - I'm sorted. I measured the stator coils - not easy as most meters can't distinguish between 0.3 and 0.4 ohms. Anyway, proved that coils around 0.18 ohms. Examined stator (5 hex bolts) and saw coils scuffed with silicone sealant on. Pressed with thumb and resistance changed. Teased coils apart and resistance went to 9.4 ohms on each coil. Reassembled and connected, ran up engine and get 2 amp INTO battery at 1000RPM with headlight on! Replaced old regulator and battery and still OK. Run for a week and battery chargeing lovely. So to answer - 14.5 V at 5k isn't enough for round town chargeing. Garage now admitted they scuffed the coils when they swapped the cover plate, and thought the silicon was enough. Replaced it free of charge, and getting compensation for my expenses too. Anyone want to buy a spare voltage regulator or battery? Thansk for helping me through this one. Keith.

Hi Paul, so I'm running out of things now. Everything works (fans, hron etc) and all connections are good (it's really clean under the tank where all the wiring connectors are in their little plastic boxes). I got my replacement votage regulator and measured it on the bench. Basically its output is about .8V below the input until you get towards 15.8V in, when the output starts to clamp hard at 14.8V, exactl hat you need for a lead acid battery. I fitted, ran into Cambridge and drove back with headlight on. By the time I got back, the instruments had switched off, but by reving up the headlight grew brighter, and again at 3000 revs the instruments switched back on and the rev counter flicked up. So today I took the cover off the generator and looked at the stator colis and the rotor. They look pristine, and I couldn't see any cracks in the rotor (which is a big circular magnet). Put it back together. Final test was to run the bike off my car battery (cos bike one was too flat to start it), but with the generator disconnected from the wiring loom. Instead I put it through a 3 phase rectifier, and connected the output to a pair of car stop light bulbs. At idle it could only produce 5V, at 3000 RPM it was near 14.5 V Conclusion, my generator no longer makes enough volts to power the bike. It used to run fine. What changed while it was in the workshop? I guess it needs a comparison with another bike now, as I can't see myself finding a replacement stator and rotor on ebay! take care. Keith

Hiya Paul, I didn't answer all your questions before. I don't have an alarm or heated bars (hope nobody with criminal intent is reading this ho-ho) I do have a satnav, but since the first battery problem I disconnected it. The first time the battery went flat, I re-charged it. When it happened again a few days later i bought a new one. That went flat after about 4 days. That was when i took it back to the garage and said it was broken. They recharged it, and did the service manual checks. They say they can't hold stock of parts as they have to buy them even if they don't use them! They wait for another bike to turn up and borrow bits. I don't think that's acceptable, but they are my nearsest garage, and where I bought the bike new and had it serviced. I've checked all the wiring I can see and it is good. I've run with all fuses out except ignition so I know that's where the current goes at idle. If my spare volt reg arrives I'll tell you if it makes any difference. I suspect not, maybe the ignition has been degraded (I'm wondering if they used a welder for the repair work - they are notoriuos for blowing silicon). The electronic ignition can't be completely US as it rides fine - even up to 80mph plus (just testing your honour). I was born in Swindon, but only a few distant rellies left there now. cheers, Keith

good point Tomo. I will try the secondhand charger when it lands first, 'cos I bought the battery mail order. Keith

Hi Paul, well, after yesterday's fun and games I took her for a 56 mile ride at motorway speeds (mostly). before I went, I measured, and the second column is after the 56 miles. (Must have hit a key in the middle of typing as it posted it! Here's the full script.) Idle is at 1000 rpm. 1000 11.59 12.33 2000 11.59 12.37 2500 11.75 12.46 3000 12.56 12.83 4000 13.69 14.2 5000 14.03 14.2 I live in Cambridge. The work done was all the left side of the bike, new fairing, wind shield, left indicator, bar end, foot peg, plus new Givi rack and top box. Also new main stand as the old one bent as she toppled. My normal route is about 10 miles, with 2 starts. I do it in winter and summer, every school day. Usually I drive with dipped headlight. I agree with your thought, that with the engine running the battery shouldn't be contributing anything, whereas mine is drawing 1.5A to keep the engine idling. You can see that after a good run the battery vboltage has ercovered, but there still isn'yt any charge going in until around 3000 revs. I';ve just bought a 2nd hand voltage reg off ebay - so that will give me one to play with and see what its characteristics are too. I appreciate your taking the time to chat. I think I might end up kicking up a stink at the delares where the work was done, as the bike was fine before they did the wortk, and it's killed two batteries in 2 weeks. take care. Keith.

Hi Paul, I just picked up your reply too late as I've just come in from the car park at work! I had to ride home last night with headlight on as my son was late out of school. This a.m. bike wouldn't start without a push. I went the long way and kept revs up, left bike standing this am and then measured it. Sitting at 11.8V at the moment, but that's cos I didn't have a long enough run. The new battery is one that came with acid to add and then is sealed for life. I know the volts are high when engine is reving, but it's really the fact that at idel there isn't charge going in. I'll measure the idle voltage and send you the numbers later, if you'd be so kind as to compare with yours. cheers, Keith

Hi, I recently had some work done to repair damage after the wind blew my bike over. Ever since the repair (not the storm, it was fine up to the time I got the bike back) the battery has gone flat after 2-3 days doing my regular morning/evening commute through town. Only way to keep it going is not to use headlights, keep revs aboue 2000 whenever possible. Previous battery lasted years, I bought a new one and it lasted 2 days. It is clear the regulator can charge the battery, the service manual says full charge voltage at 5000 RPM. The contacts in the wiring loom are all clean. The battery doesn't go flat when key is off. I can remove all fuses except engine/ignition and the current doesn't change (so no trapped wires etc) The alternator coils are all generating volts on a scope, but appear to clip at 10V at idle, and then clip at higher voltages as the revs wind up. at Idle my bike consumes up to 1.5A, obviously sitting at traffic lights with headlight and brake lights this goes up considerably. >2000 RPM means 30mph - hard to do much of that in the rush hour. Garage say they are baffled. Anyone with a good fazer able to measure their current at idle, no lights on - is it charging or discharging, and how much? cheers. KJP