Dickwad
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Posts posted by Dickwad
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On 5/7/2017 at 9:38 PM, drewpy said:
crap in the fuel, did you fit an inline filter?
my thoughts exactly, part blocked fuel line maybe, float chamber cant fill up quick enough, that's why it starts after resting awhile. another thing to check is the filter on the petcock, (fuel tap) if you pull off the fuel pipe from the carb and blow up it with the fuel tap on it will clear for a while, start blowing with the fuel tap shut and open the tap while you are still blowing otherwise you will be enjoying the delites of Esso unleaded.
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On 11/7/2015 at 4:49 PM, Noise said:
This is what's in the stock pipes.
Unless your good with a welder it's quite hard to gut themfully. Best to save up n get a set of vance and hinds.
I agree, i've been down that road and to be honest they sounded a bit "wet farty" when I throttled off, so bought some Vance and Hines.
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On 3/8/2016 at 1:41 PM, Derekm said:
The book says Yamalube 4 10W30 or 20W40, but no mention of type. Yam do mineral, semi-synth & full synth. and unfortunately, their prices are rather "imaginative".
Yam don't make oils, so what are their oils exactly?
I know about avoiding many car oils, because of friction reducing additives & clutch slip, but my local dealer said he recently serviced a VS 1100 for a customer, used their stock, branded motorcycle specific oil (don't remember the brand) and the customer came back complaining of clutch slip. In my previous 2 machines, Suzuki Katana 650 and Bonneville 850, I used Unipart semi-synth and had no problems, but the clutch slip phenomena seems to be a trait of V Stars & Viragos as I understand things.
Advice from long term V Star owners appreciated.
Fit a Barnett clutch conversion and you will never have clutch slip again, it replaces the feeble pressure plate with a multi spring clutch.
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On 6/11/2016 at 3:39 PM, drewpy said:
there's a knack to do 'em too. Need soaking in water for a few hours and wear gloves as they are as itchy as Fook.
start from the engine and work your way down not more that 1/2 width (gets tricky on bends)
did my tracker and they still look good and "lived in"
no no no, you start at the tail end of the pipe and work your way to the engine, otherwise the wrap overlaps get full of road poop and come loose, also wrap the retailing wire in the opposite direction, or that will allow the wrapping to come loose as well.
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A 650 dragstar tank is exactly the same as the 1100. as the 650 is more common you should be able to find one in the UK.
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you only need to fit shorter dog bones, available on ebay and cheap.
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I finally got the rectifier fixed on the bike, long story for another thread. Anyway, i've noticed since I got it, it runs really hot, has trouble idling sometimes and also the chrome custom pipes are discoloured to a goldeb colour. This, and it also pops when deceleration takes place. I was told that the bike had been rejetted but either it hasn't or its been done wrong, so I'm going to get it done. Trouble is, I don't know what pipes mine are. They long shotgun types with no makers name. Any idea what kit I should get and what stage jets I should fit? I've got my eye on a Vance and Hines kit for around 70 quid.
without going into a lengthy discussion on how exhaust pipes work, It sounds like its running to lean, this is because of a lack of sufficient back pressure, if its running to lean it will burn the valves and also burn the pipes as you have described, to overcome this you need to increase the main jet size. "Now the experimenting starts", I had to go up 5 sizes before I got mine to run properly, (2000 1100 drag). also make sure the rear main jet is a couple of sizes bigger than the front, this is because the rear cylinder runs hotter so requires more fuel (you will notice this when you take the main jets out), when you have got it right the carbs will need balancing. I fitted straight through slash cuts to mine and had to re jet it as i have described, they have been on it two years now and it runs perfectly with no pipe discolouration, and the spark plugs are always the right colour. oh, by the way, the popping on deceleration is unavoidable with open pipes, again, because of no back pressure, you will have to live with that if you want load pipes. main jets cost about £2 each so its a cheap fix.
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Got a problem at the moment with sluggish starting, i.e. when I start the bike, it turns over really really slowly like the battery is almost dead. Repeat this two or three times and the bike starts OK. I've got a new battery on order but was wondering if it could be anything else? Its an old bike, 2001 reg and just recently serviced.
Any ideas?
My 2000 XVS 1100 does exactly that and has done for the past 3 years when I bought it, I jumped it from a car battery once when the battery was low and it whipped it over, which suggests to me the standard battery isn't really man enough, I mean, you wouldn't try to jump a 1100 cc car from a puny bike battery, one thing you could check though are the resisters in the spark plug caps, If you pull the caps off and look inside where the plug tops clip in you will see a brass fitting with a slot in it, unscrew it with a screw driver and a small carbon bush and spring should fall out with the brass fitting, if this is corroded replace the plug caps, this will make a hell of a difference to the spark power and help with starting.
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Borrow a coil or buy a used one, Iv had a similar problem with a V twin, one of the coils was failing, it would start then stop.
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Gents,
It looks like the chain is 'binding' on the front sprocket - going through the gears a grinding/rasping/knocking feel through the end transmission and it feels like the gearbox is grinding itself to bits - but the engine/gearbox are as sweet as.
I don't know any better than that the rear & front sprocket + chain have the same level of wear and when the sprockets teeth become sharp or bent that it is changing time.
Also a pointer towards how tight a chain on a machine like this should be would be appreciated (as in how many cm deflection when you push the chain up on side stand) - or if i post a pic could you judge if mine are up for replacement.
As ever your imput much appreciated.
i would put money on it a couple or more links have seized up causing the chain not to roll around the sprocket very easily, take the chain off and bend each link by hand, If you come across any tight ones, there's your problem, you will need a new chain if this is the case.
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Hey all you peeps i have a queery and would like some help... i have got a wobble on my xvs650. I've changed all the bearings from the front to the back, I've had my front and rear tyres checked and balanced ive also checked the frame for bad dents and cracks just to make sure but it's still there.. it only seems to occure when im between 60/70mph..
lift the wheels off the ground and (one at a time of course) spin the wheel watching the rim where the Tyre bead sits, it might not be seated evenly, if its not, let the Tyre down, push the bead off the rim (inwards), and pump it up again.
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This is the second time my dragstar has done this, cranks over fine but no spark,
I checked everything, and I mean, "EVERYTHING"...... except the ignition switch, I assumed because it was cranking over then the switch had to be OK. I was talking to a guy who has the same bike the other night at a bike meet, he said that he had the same trouble, but if he turned the key back ever so slightly while cranking it over it would start. So next day I took the switch apart and sure enough the wiper had been dragging plastic on to the copper contact and plastic is not a good conductor, so, cleaned the tracks up with 2000 wet and dry and no more bad starting, and I guess this could apply to any make or model with a similar problem. Oh and another tip I picked up, when it was sparking, the spark was very faint and white, this I was advised will more than likely be the spark plug caps, inside they have small resistors in the form of a small metal rod about 10mm long with a spring, I checked these and they were pretty corroded, so replaced the caps with new ones and now its got a strong yellow spark and fires up instantly. DEEP JOY. -
What ever pipes you decide to get, make sure they have a bigger bore than the down pipes otherwise it will sound tinny, I fitted a pair of slash cut RUMBLERS to my 1100 dragstar and it sounds deep and throaty like a Harley, but they are straight through so I had to go up 10 sizes on my main jets. The noise is quite exceptable when cruising or pottering around town but open it up and its LOUD.
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Woohoo.....got it sorted at no cost at all. Took the 'dummy' tank off and the hoses and there was a blockage, was a wee bit messy with pertrol but a small price to pay to get it sorted.
if someone could tell me what the 2 hoses leading to the real tank are that would be great. You can see the 2 hoses in the video clip posted above, there is a thick hose and a thin hose and they both lead from the dummy tank to the real tank, not sure if its just a back up hose incase one gets blocked. The blockage in mine was in the small hose but the thick hose looked like it had been jammed between something so thats maybe why if this is a backup hose that wasnt working either....
Aw well im learning every day. Thanks everyone for your help
The large hose is the fuel feed, the smaller one is a breather, without that, the the fuel would be held back buy the pressure building up in the lower tank, the air in the tank is being replaced by petrol so it has to have somewhere to go, its rooted into the main tank near the top of the filler tube, if you remove the filler cap and look inside, you will see a small hole just inside near the top.
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Hey Merv is that what the women look like in Norway?
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That kid shouldn't be drinking at his age!
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One of 'ems working on the wrong end
OH NO SHES NOT!
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Iv got a padlock on mine like Mr bean.
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Back order + very slow boat from japan=long wait ..
That boat plobabry needs some new lings aswew you stupid iriot
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why does my 02 plate dt125 only do 70mph?
My suzuki DR600 only does 90 and it will do less after Iv geared it down.
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Dont tell the MOD or they will give them to the RAF instead of euro fighters to save money, seems to me Its more important to our Government to give all our money to "Johnny Foreigner" "Migrant workers my arse! more like Migrant shirkers".
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F*CK I was fancying that myself
Not...yer mad...mad I tells ya
Woke up to a very nice email from eBay today, "you have won the auction for..."
Meet the new project... 'Mong' :/
Hopefully this one will be a quick turn-around.
You no what, for the price of a few cheap custom bits and pieces I would BOB that bike, get rid of the seat, rear fender, grab rail and speedo cowl, add a single bobber seat, low fender off something, spray tank and fenders semi gloss black, get rid of those crappy mirrors and the chain guard, add mini indicators, and if the spokes and wheels are rusty spray them black as well, you will make more money that way because it will have more appeal.
I checked everything, and I mean, "EVERYTHING"...... except the ignition switch, 
I assumed because it was cranking over then the switch had to be OK. 
I was talking to a guy who has the same bike the other night at a bike meet, he said that he had the same trouble, but if he turned the key back ever so slightly while cranking it over it would start. So next day I took the switch apart and sure enough the wiper had been dragging plastic on to the copper contact and plastic is not a good conductor, so, cleaned the tracks up with 2000 wet and dry and no more bad starting, 
and I guess this could apply to any make or model with a similar problem. Oh and another tip I picked up, when it was sparking, the spark was very faint and white, this I was advised will more than likely be the spark plug caps, inside they have small resistors in the form of a small metal rod about 10mm long with a spring, I checked these and they were pretty corroded, so replaced the caps with new ones and now its got a strong yellow spark and fires up instantly. DEEP JOY.
Looking for my old xvs FM56URA
in General
Posted
Data protection act, they wont tell you.