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hey everyone, well here's the update. it's costing a fair bit but i want it back on the road.... it needs: piston kit rocker arm exhaust valve spring seat valve collets head gasket LABOUR!! should have the bike back on the road by the end of next week. the guy said that the collets had broken damaging the spring seat and therefore forcing the valve onto the adjustment screw. so overall verdict: exhaust valve knackered = no compression = no vrooooom vroooom

yeah, does seem funny looking back on it but then that's what these forums are for. to help diagnose things and help one another, right? thanks blackhat, although i never even saw your post!

finally hit the nail on the head, thanks OG The collet was damaged as you can see from the pic. Roy from the bike shop(RP Motorsports) has literally just come and taken the bike away. I had everything exposed so he could instantly see the problem. also pointed out how freely the valve moved from side to side. he said this was why the bike would have cut out in the first place, no compression, and of course why it won't start! i'll hear back later on today from him with a full and final verdict. will let everyone know as i know in my experience it's always nice to know what the problem was and how it was solved for other people's sake. thanks so much for everyone's support and guidance

i haven't had time to check this but i'm going to do it tomorrow. i've provide a pic with stages broken down as follows. this is as best as i can describe what's happening, so please bear with me: 1. loosen 2. turn anti-clockwise 3. bottom of screw moves up 4. top of spring also moves up there is never any clearance. i can turn that screw all the way up and the top of the spring will sit against the rocker arm. if i carry out the same principle on the intake valve i will get a gap/clearance and the top of its spring does not move

the manual said to get to TDC and align the mark on the cam sprocket with the alignment stud at the top, which i had already done

i've unscrewed it all the way and the valve just follows it up...it's now high enough so the rocker arm rubs on it. there is no clearance, you can't fit the smallest feeler gauge in between the screw and valve

no, its not stuck it moves down then up as i turn the motor. if you watch both the valves as i turn the motor, you can see the intake valve move down then up, then shortly after the exhaust valve does the same.

i thought the same and turned it to next TDC but no difference. infact i checked the clearance at several stages of the valve stroke but it stayed the same. the intake valve was a doddle to adjust and when i loosened the 10mm bolt i could turn the adjustment screw easily with my fingers. this wasn't the same for the exhaust valve, i had to turn it with pliers but every time i did the valve followed the screw up if that makes sense

hey everyone. took the valve covers off and camshaft cover off this morning and this is what i found: 1. took the camshaft cover off and it looks as if the timing chain had been rubbing on the inside somehow 2. looking at the exhaust valve, the screw was damaged/cracked. it was sat very tightly against the valve tip so i tried adjusting it but the valve kept moving up with the screw and there was never any clearance i also noticed the top of the exhaust valve cover had a little indent inside it which is where i think the top of the screw had been hitting it i made sure the piston was at TDC before i touched the valves. i could also see both valves move down and up so there's no issue there. apologies on the size of pics

Right ok, will have a looksee tomorrow as I'm checking the valves. Will do the compression test beforehand though. Hoping to get the bike back running by Friday as it's back to work then

Not got a compression tester but heard of that thumb over the plug hole test. There's no kickstart so I'd have to use the electric start assuming that's safe enough? I've had a look through that manual, checking the valves and adjusting them seems fairly easy so will give that a go tomorrow. Wish I had a garage I'd be on it now and all night

thinking about it now, that sound is probably the valves and they need adjusting. could be wrong though?

yes was when i let out the clutch. i didn't open the throttle and the spark plug was in

here's another video for everyone, it shows what happens when i try to bump start my bike....you can hear that "clicking" and it does sound very much like it's coming from around the engine area. it may just be i wasn't going fast enough. see what everyone thinks My link

I've got the correct plug, double checked from that manual and it is the right year for my bike. i measured the secondary with the cap off