eggsandbacon

I stumbled upon this post when looking for info regarding the front brembo on my x as the haynes manual I have only seems to have the RE one in it. I thought I needed to bump this old post as the information is incorrect; They are held in by a pin/split pin not an allen bolt. I have had a look at the diagrams for 05 06 and 07 and they all show the same so I'm puzzled as to why the OP's was different.

I haven't had the carb in bits yet, the pilot mixture screw has an effect on idle rev so I presume the jet is functioning correctly. I guess I really need to get it stripped down to see what's going on/if any jets have been changed.

Four stroking is when the engine fires on every second revolution in a no load situation and is quite a common on 2t dirtbikes. Shouldn't be happening on a road bike but I have a feeling the larger expansion chamber of the dep to be the culprit.

I have cleaned and repacked the silencer which has stopped the dribble. I have also found out what the engine is doing to make it feel like it is; "4 stroking". Though I'm still unsure why or how to remedy it. Am I right in thinking if the pilot jet was blocked it wouldn't tick over? I have been trying to sign up at dtr125.co.uk forums for the past week to no avail.

Just a minor dribble, I'm not convinced that's what's causing the problem though as it ticks over, accelerates and sounds great. The splutters are most noticable between 0 and 1/4 throttle when slowing. Pottering around seems fine. I replaced the spark plug (BR8ES) which was a nice tan colour. Air filter seems clean but something I found wierd; if I block the hole where the snorkel would of been it doesn't bog so it must be sucking air from elsewhere? I'm also a bit worried about how little two stroke oil it's using; It came full with some bluey green stuff (I thought it was all red?), it must of had at least 5 tanks of fuel and its only used about half of the oil.

I meant where on the airbox did it connect (thinking might need blocking off) Anyways I have fitted the new gaskets which have stopped the oil coming from the joints but the backbox still has a snotty nose and the splutters persist. Got a new plug and was gonna do a plug chop tonight but it's raining now.

Funny you should say that, it doesn't or ever did. But after looking in the haynes manual there is a cat pipe (a.i.s) fitted to the standard exhaust, though it doesn't show where it connects.

Hey, there is a few very tight passages (jets etc) for fuel inside the carb which you wouldn't be able to see without stripping down. I used to own a speedfight which would quite often take on water into the carb causing a blockage, it would start and tick over fine but would splutter and bog out/stall under acceleration. Simply opening the float drain and draining the bowl would reveal some jelly (water in petrol).

P.S What does that thing do anyway? I had the bike running briefly with it off and expected it to bog down with all the air, but it just sounded deeper. Edit: oops sorry mean't to edit other post not quote/reply.

Right I have ordered the rubber gasket (that one was correct sizing, cheers) and also the metal crush gasket for the frontpipe. Forgive my ignorance but do you mean these leaky exhaust joints could be causing the spluttering, or just the cause of the mess? Anyway I whipped the little air bottle (not sure correct term) today and found what would appear to be the mixture screw hiding behind it.

Ok thanks, I'll get a seal for it. What about the carb oddity?

It's not the standard exhaust, rather a full dep system. There's no joining rubber, looks like the frontpipe is just a push fit (and a bad one at that) into the silencer.

I'm now quite worried/gutted; I took off the side panel to get at the exhaust and there was a river of oil collected in the heat shielded valley of the battery cover. Could this be down to it running rich for a while? or am I looking at gearbox oil in the fuel? I'm also very confused about the carb, my previous statement about the mixer screw is wrong. The mixer screw(flathead) should apparently be located just below the knurled idle screw(philips), in a hexagonal opening. On my carb this is blanked off. In the haynes manual it says to set it 1/4 turn out, not the 1 and 1/2 turns I keep seeing elsewhere.

Scrap the comment about 6th gear, I wasn't holding onto the revs/ shifting quick enough. There is a load of oil around where the exhaust meets the head, dribble from the silencer and all round where the frontpipe joins the silencer (bad join).

It appears to line up fine but I didn't take the pipe off to check for lumps. Should this be my next move? I noticed today that it doesn't pull well in 6th too, eg: come to the brow of a medium hill high revs (guestimate ~9k), having pulled well up it through 4th and 5th then it struggles in 6th, the more throttle apllied the worse it appears. I also read that the mixer screw should be around 1.5 turns out, mine is like 3.