Jeremiah+Josh

frame "trimmed" flat track seat fitted (loosely) gotta cut tread-plate for battery and regulator and battery to sit on weld some nuts /.... hopefully frame sprayed up by end of the month Jez

hey i love these things take plug out to start with don't worry about starting untill you have a spark or you have no leg or foot left clean block connecters from engine to loom clean the coils where they ground to frame then... while looking directly at the contact breakers (dim the lights or late in the evening if outside) turn the engine over (easy now no plug) and see if you get a blue spark arc across the the breakers . if none examine wiring (power)going into coil i think poss red/white if no power trace back to find out why (at this point try look for power while kicking over too) if you have power move forward checking each connection good luck Jez

adjusted points gap to tad over max now have fat spark bike pulled well now in bits ready for next stage ... electrics ...

Hi new coils from rex count it feels retarded on the throttle but i have only balanced on rev counter 1 pot at a time need to put vac Guage's on ill re time with fag paper and then strobe it a whole new world of tricks is availble now its starting the tip i broke was pilot mixture screw ...i found some more carb bodys in the basket case and the mixture screws were different (stepped rather than tapered) anyway i tried those in me bestest bodys and one broke ... i have yet to try airline up pilot holes to blow out thanks for help will keep it posted Jez

Hi thanks for input done all that a couple of weeks ago the bit about advancing the timing plate may be handy as above now idling and ticking over a treat need to balance carbs next and put check main jets and neddles as the carbs are made up now from random bits so to change one part at a time NEED TO WORK OUT HOW TO REMOVE A BROKEN NEEDLE TIP (I BUST IT OFF YESTERDAY) where's Drewpy Im interested in this plug gap anomaly Jeremiah !

VERY well put and now easily understandable I wonder if it is connected to today's anomaly XS 250 now starts well and ticks over well tick over ATM a little fast but sounds a lot better and it stays alive it does try and respond to throttle but it ain't great but well .... Hey one thing at a time Now the plugs that came with the bike(s) all six in fact were set to or near to what it says in the Haynes 0.7 mm last night i thought i was getting close but all the plugs seemed to need constant attention apart from one when i examined it this morning it had a smaller gap (possibly dropped) i measured it at 0.4 mm set the others to that and hey presto ... intial prob's gone and bike starts and ticks over well.. Is Haynes wrong >>>>AGAIN.. or is there something more sinister ... Possibly related to dwell ...gap set to smallest in Haynes book 'O' lies 0.3 thanks for the input Drew look forward to your thoughts Jez

some weird shit tonight started mixing up carbs made up a new set slapped em on it was running a treat on the right cylinder made up a new left no luck made last left no luck right going well though split carbs put right carb on left left ran fine put a left carb on left left ran fine ??? put these together no right put a marked good right on right no right got totaly mixed up now suspect we burning plugs out but i think we are close

Ahh yes sorry when i researched "Dwell" i came away thinking it meant the time closed ... but the smaller the gap the less time closed = less power charged in the coil .. ????? Yes you did i did believe but cant see how to get them cleaner but it will be somewhere something ... The crux is three sets of carbs with the same or similar symptons . However we now know ignition is tip top .. Personaly when i have a doubt i keep going back. I looked at mix screw through a jewelers eye piece had blunt end but we concluded that should be the case however ... Ive only seen old ones Ill take em off tonight and have a look see for daylight and get back on that one. bowl is deffo ok but will check again Thanks for replying Jez

Just some of the latest here Dwell is Points Gap (new one on me) any way that's all good I chucked a Mikuni vm34 (Jetted for a SR 500) on the left cylinder and with some fiddling it runs well and starts easily it will tick over very nice and not cut out miss or fart at all running one cylinder the plug looks nice too nice tan color repeated the process on right cylinder all good runs ticks over nice looking plug so its the CARBS back too them stripped again blew out pilot holes and set floats (they were previously ultra-sonicly cleaned back on same shit fires up now on two cylinders wont run for long it is missing and generally running very rough wont respond to throttle what i have noticed is no matter where i put the mixture screws it makes no differance (I have even removed them) i cant work out where the problem could be could it be between the float bowls and and main body there is a gasket there that looks very good the tips of the mixture screws look ok under scope seriously considering getting some 42 mm copper pipe and fabricating a 2:1 manifold Jez

Ok out of intrest today (and the fact i cant seem to leaver the ****** alone we slapped a mikuni vm34 round slide carb jetted for sr500 single on mr left cylinder no throttle cable just carb choke fired after three seconds started to splutter & run on one cylinder choke off adjusting throttle stop i managed various degrees of succses and run on one cylinder for around 30 secs didnt have time after to try right cylinder .... carbs stripped again will rebuild next week off for the week end Jez

Ok right whats the ?? dwell ?? and whats the compression spec Thanks for the input

yeah 1 has cap other goes to petcock whilst turning engine over with petcock in postion on or reserve petrol comes out prime just dumps fuel so all ok and fuel cap open closed make no difference i have even tried swapping cap and line about ... from one intake rubber t' other re done compression test ... its not a very great tester its a cheapo am-tech i have borrowed and its hard to deduce the fast flickering needle but its hitting 125 psi as best i can see ... Jez

tried other carbs back to one cylinder (right) unable to get left firing so took carbs off cleaned left one blew out pilot jets and airways examined needles (tips look to be there) set them at three turns out from full in now nothing will fire yes .. it has spark ... i have restored bsa's that people pulled apart in the fiftys and left outside ... and a sr500 that lay in a hedge for twenty years ... this pile of **** defies all logic

coils arrived ..... single wire wrong ones .... and i did tell the guy points in fact i ordered new points at the same time

Hi Bit more "un-frustrated" this morning late last night after posting we did notice that when she tried to start on the right it was not as strong as when she tried to start on the left we swapped coils and got same result so i tried another coil on right .. and now it does try and start on both cylinders Current status tries to start on both cylinders sound possibly missing wont respond to throttle best its run for with out starter turning is about 5 secs to start last night i had to remove air-box and block/restrict intakes once firing a bit i put air-boxes it the would continue to start ...choke on to start after a while it doesn't like it but still wont start .. Carbs they have been ultra sonicily cleaned ... it made little or no difference i have 2 other sets of carb's they have the same result ... same symptoms ... I have put a new condenser on made no diff Points I have gapped and timed using a light bulb timed to the first mark after LF ... I will say that i found this a bastard of a job as the timing wondered as re-tightening screws but they seem to be on the mark now I am thinking of the fag paper method but the hassle last time to get them spot on is putting me off atu bob weights seem too be free TODAY i will try putting old condenser back on some original exhausts and brand new coils if they arrive in the post Jez