Kelum

Hi Guys...bike starting now. There was a leak in the air hose between carb and frame. I tried to place another rubber hose there but it was very much difficult to put something too rigid there, so I placed the same old on and tightened it with copper wires so that there will be no air leaks at the top of the carb where rubber hose and carb top meets. Right after mounting carb and gas tank and at PRI, the carb bowl overflew and the overflow hose kept draining gas. Float needle was ok when I checked if it seals properly blowing air across it, I should tap the bowl so if floater is stuck it should get ok. The issue was, the air - carb hose was having a leak and the slider or the piston did not move correctly to draw and deliver gas to the inlet manifolds. I had some high-reving issue too. That prob could be attributed to that leak. Pressure wasnt enough to move the slider so gas wasnt flowing into engine... If there are things u wanna add into this, pls share knowledge with me... Thank you all for help.. Kelum

Yeah, it moves very well. Let me clean the thing first.

Thank guys, will do the cleaning that way. Do you think that glue like thing holding the diaphragm piston stuck?

Ha ha, I removed the carb and all seem to be ok... ( I did some stupid thing ha ha , after removing the carb I wanted to make sure if I pour some gas direct into carb joint would it fire up the engine...did so and bang it started right away but there was fire on carb joint...ha ha..it didnt harm anything. I killed it fast.. ) Now back to the issue...I'm assuming that the needle on the piston does not deliver petrol into inlet manifold(s). Probably the membrane with piston stays stuck? Its operation is governed by the air filter line ( frame ) right? And membrane has no tears or wears... What should I do? .......................................... I just blew some air with a compressor through jets and holes of the carb in order to clean it. Waiting for your responses!

OK guys here comes the update! Checked the spark with old spark plugs and they were sparking ok, but I put new plugs on both heads and tried, no luck, just cranking. After that leaving her in new spark plugs I removed the tank plus pumps and petcock and put a teaspoonful of gas ino the top of the carb and cranked. Bike started right away. When I opened the carb before for the first time after this issue came up, there was some gel like thing inside, probably some liquid gasket inside the gas bowl, I cleaned all the idle and main jets plus the metal filter under the float needle. But I didnt open the membrane/diaphragm side and the black piston moving horizontally inside carb. Now I have the feeling that while the float chamber has been cleaned ok, there is some block inside the needle like thing inside black horizontal piston operated by the diaphragm...everything else is ok, carb does not deliver fuel to inlet manifolds. Should I clean the needle inside the piston? Is that the one to blame? Is it possible that glue like thing which was inside gas bowl or float chamber has been sucked up and blocking the jet/needle inside carb piston? Help me guys!

K sure will do it and update u...

Hi, When the OIL level is very much low, the friction is up so u will feel like bike is loosing power..check oil levels regularly. If rings are worn out the compression would be low..and power will go down, you should check if plugs are wet with oil.There may be misfiring or the plugs would blow away. If plugs arent firing right then you will smell unburnt fuel. Check if the oil is being pumped by the pump. If not probably the plastic wheel of the pump may have worn out. If you didnt play with timing, then I dont think there is an issue with it. Check if your TCI working properly. I remember there was a post regarding a TCI fix someone had done cos he had only one cylinder firing. Try cleaning connectors from TCI..

Not yet...doing it saturday...either of these will be ok right? Please explain, did you mean that I hae to remove gas tank, leave carb open..(funnel from air cleaner removed )...add some gas into the carb from top and crank the engine? that wouldnt cause any issue for carb, I mean direct feeding?

Yes fuel flowing out...the carb is getting fuel...I dont think its the petcock...its like the carb doesnt feed the heads...must check wiring and all...what do you think buddy?

The fact that bike wont start even at PRI is a problem...There is a prob other than vacuum? I plugged in another TCI and tried..no luck... Can someone check if bike starts and runs ok at PRI for me?

Ok...sounds a big checkup...sure I will check one by one... PRI position is not safe once the floater needle is worn out ( as it can flood the engine, kill the lubrication by oils ruining engine) thats why the manual always asking to turn petcock to ON. Bike does attempts to start when I bump start it but wont hold on.. I blew some air from the top oval channel of the carb and slider moves. There's no prob with the floater needle as it cuts off air as floater closes the opening when I slant it. Will update by and by..thanks mate!

Another thing, when I try to bump start, the engine seems to fire up few cycles and doesnt seem to hold on..like it has some fuel starvation...plugs working ok! Can someone explain me how the membrane (opposite side of fuel floater chamber) in carb works, what makes it operate, a vacuum? I feel there should be some problem with it? membrane is not torn..some block?

Mmm...I dont know , you should consider the specs of both bikes and see for yourself...and if you can sell it off at a good price then no problem doing that I think. If you havent ridden it much then there wont be worries in keeping it anyways. Another prob, why do you use "only think" instead of "only thing"? I have seen some natives using "then" instead of "than" in the media even.. why do even the native English users doing such mistakes? I dont know am not a native English user...

When I turn on PRI, I see petrol flowing in the carb, and the floater compartment does have fuel as petrol seeping when I unscrew the bowl knob at the lower end. But the manual keeps saying that you should not run the bike at PRI position, you should only use PRI when the carb is emptied of fuel supply? Why? If PUMP doesnt work, u should be able to ride at PRI position right? I did remove the carb feed hose from the pump and cranked the engine...pump sometimes pumps fuel, but mostly dead...my petcock valve, the circular black rubber with holes/valves under rotating knob, had some wears...so am guessing probably the petcock having a vacuum leak which affects bad on pump too as they both are connected by same vacuum line... But my logic here is, at PRI position, since petrol keeps flowing into the carb, she should start..why does the manual say not to run at PRI, It asks only to prime system and start u can use it, but when running turn it back to the ON position...I know if there is a prob with floater needle, at PRI position it fuel will flood the engine..the reason is that? I checked the floater needle, cleaned it, attached a long hose to the carb breather and kept it near my ear and blew some air through carb feed line to see if floater needle turns on and off airflow to my ear when the floater is up and down..it works perfect.. You need to slant the carb so the floater moves up to open - so air flows in to ear, and down to close the air flow.

Regarding the headbulb, I have fitted Bright white LED set inside the headlamp cover with a resistor for each bulb..each is reducing 15v to the required voltage of the LED..U people have easy access to bigger and brighter LEDs am sure...I will make a post on that in the future..around 8 months now, no problem at all, yes good idea on fog lamps...ebay has better options... http://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-x-LED-Lens-Reflector-90-Degree-For-1W-3W-Lamp-Chip-/300841310165?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460b8a17d5 http://www.ebay.com/itm/TERRALUX-LED-BULB-LENS-KIT-for-STREAMLIGHT-STINGER-POLY-STINGER-TLE-ST-EX-/200875443934?pt=US_Flashlights&hash=item2ec51c06de Just think out-of-the box, you dont always have to go for the exact original...even my frnd cut a oil pump wheel with ebonite.. Here, you need to calculate resistance, current and voltage values to avoid according the voltage of each bulb... (different colors have different voltages) right calculations should not burn out bulbs/rec-reg or battery..

The bike doesnt start buddy, did u mean cranking? Petrol wouldnt be pumped out by pump...thanks for the tips buddy...

pic is visible buddy, please have a look and comment..

Am sure the tail light and the headlight (on-light) drawing out the excess...15v reading seems to be fine with 12N12A battery.

I did a total engine overhaul and fitted new rods and piston rings in the engine. Bought a reconditioned manifold that comes between two engine heads but the manifold was shorter than the gap between heads. So the garaj guy gave me some thick mat-like/plastic-like material with which I cut matching shapes for both manifold-head ends like below. After fitting the bike started very well. But later it wouldnt start..the engine cranks without gas...vacuum pipes are well sealed. The fuel pump does not pump fuel, I checked inside of it and its ok, but I doubt the vacuum-operated end of the petcock...the fuel is not pumped because there probably is a vacuum leak...cant figure out where this leak is.. When I Prime the engine, the fuel enters carb through the pump, but in that Prime position at least bike doesnt start....I checked and removed dirt inside the carb. I am pretty sure the problem lies in the fact that pump doesnt pump fuel in...I removed the the pump - carb hose and while cranking there is no fuel jet coming out from pump...the vacuum is not powerful enough to operate them... the carb - pump hose is a see-through one so I can see if fuel is pumped or not. Doesnt the bike suppose to start at PRI position when there is no vacuum? I checked floater needle too, it works ok. My guess is either the petcock housing or pump housing having a vacuum leak. What do you think guys? PRI position has the capacity to start and run the bike when vacuum doesnt work?

Thanks mate, there is no battery overcharging, acid level has not gone down in the battery, things running fine with my two bikes whose rectifiers have been replaced the same way...

Yes, why not Just match it with the output and battery voltage.. even a car reg/rec should work, I dont know what the voltage in an xv535.

Yeah Buddy thanks for info. I know that issue. What I am asking is do u need an upper slack..I have mentioned the issue I had in my bike. O think upper slack was too much right aft I shifted gear front sprocket would rotate a bit straining the whole thing..so I had to refill the sprocket shaft's sprocket-fitting end...did you mean there should be a slack at both up n down?

I have bought front and rear sprockets with the chain, Genuine Japanese make. front 13 teeth, rear 46 teeth ( remember like it has to be 47) and 520 chain. Just wanna know what would be the upper slack in the chain...should there be an upper slack? I know what happens with upper slack is that u start in neutral and right after u switch to the 1st gear...there is some powerful forward rotation of the front sprocket till slack straightens..if you get what I mean. This applies an unnecessary force on front sprocket teeth, front sprocket shaft, chain and the rear sprocket..in my other bike the front sprocket shaft was greatly worn so I had to get it the worn refilled with iron. Am going to set up these to the same bike so dont wanna see that wearing happens again. I think there should be no upper slack in the chain...what do u guys think? Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Just to update > Battery is very healthy, no problem at all with the new setup described above!

Thanks AirHead and Dt...I bought many original virago rectifiers to find out they all fried my batteries and leveling up was necessary every fortnight. I found several electronic circuits - bridge rectifiers and regulators...in any module the principle should be the same, AC to DC conversion and regulation. The output should be compatible with the battery.. DT, the GIO is a chinese one right? Any unit that has a compatible output should work cos the principal is the same no matter what make.. Use a multimeter to measure the output on the battery while reving the engine. Monitor for sometime for heating up and level drops of battery. Check if battery heats up after every long ride. If this happens, try connecting only two white wire to two yellow wires of the rectifier.