Kelum

Why does the bike need choking? Does the carb receive inadequate air through air filter? Should I look into the frame-carb airway?

It appears to me that the starting requires choking...is that bad...on and off it starts without choke... Joy never lasts!

:) :) it started, now the engine running at ON...There have been air leaks of course. But dont know how long she will start... Am thinking of removing the manifold again, add some new spacers covered with petrol-resistant Curil and seal it properly. The liquid gasket I used earlier has been dissolved by petrol and that has created leaks... But Please comment on my first post here, for my info...thanks..

I sealed the leaks I thought were leaks around the manifold joint with Curil, a German sealant resistant to petrol,mineral oils etc... I checked the pump by giving it a vacuum by mouth...it ejected petrol out fine.. Cranking now at PRI....doesnt seem to start still... help me..

Guys, I posted here several times regarding the start problem I had with my xv125. After trying all I thought I should replace carb so bought a reconditioned carb and installed. After several cranks she started but now when I crank it runs few cycles then dies. Vacuum system doesnt work. There is no fuel tap leak nor pump leak...So all the start attempts went at PRI position. When running also I set petcock to ON position to realize engine died. So it was left at PRI..When I crank at on position, my transparent carb feed line shows that the petrol with air bubbles, non of the bubbles even shake...means there is no vacuum at all .....Does this vacuum affects sucking petrol from carb bowl into the engine..at PRI or ON or RES? Absence of vacuum is the case? Is it possible the crankcase to have a vacuum leak? I cleaned the carb very well...petrol comes to bowl, I tried IDLE adjustment nob while cranking, no luck.. Now if I go and crank, she would run several cycles and dies immediately.. Please help me..

Hi guys, after very long time went through all the comments posted by u all regarding the solution I found...well few days back I met another two locals with xv125s and they too had the same rec/reg burnout and battery overcharging issue...I offered my solution to them, one guy being an electrician started to argue that the 3 wheeler rec/reg is just a 4-diode assembly with no regulator built in...some guys are like that I know..they just keep arguing and never try a solution...he didnt like to accept my idea because he was an electrician... The other guy however, is a very good person he would follow this thread to fix it up. Seems all xv125s having the same issue with burning out rectifier as the place it's been located is not ventilated adequately to dissipate the heat generated. I wonder why Yamaha has been so dumb about it...:/ Its been very long since the install...no bulb burnt out, didnt even clear salt deposits on battery poles...bike electrical system running very powerful...lights are very bright... It is always important that you make sure the voltage stabilizes at 15 while engine running, though the manual mentions it should be 14.7v with the standard dumb rec/reg... Make sure to install the standard 12N12A battery.. I have seen some guys have 12N9A batteries which would run the starter but weak... Am very excited I could come up with something important for all the virago lovers...have fun guys...

Hi thanks for the reply... Am kinda confused, are yo referring to the pump I have shown in the picture, the black one? Or the vacuum piston which has a diaphragm ? I checked inside, there was this gell like thing covering holes of jets...cleaned and now bike starting. This means the pump should be ok... Nothing seem to have worn out so far...

The pump attached to the float bowl does not seem to operate right...earlier I remember as I pressed it the whole at the middle of the bowl ejected petrol....I placed the bowl like shown in the pic and poured some petrol to the bowl area covering the hole at the middle, coming from the pump...I feel like some air leak in the pump and there is no ejection...I believe the the other hole running vertically to the top and coming to the top of the carb-air inlet feeds the little needle at the top to initiate start... 1. what happens if the pump washers etc. go worn? does it affect the starting? What does this circuit really do? When I was cleaning the carb with carb cleaner ( Abro) I sprayed some of it into these holes too while pressing pump...Bike was starting without issue until yesterday it didnt... When I opened the carb I found some slimy and kinda calcified /salt like stuff formed inside, and the pilot jet hole plus above pump's middle opening ( float bowl middle) was kinda blocked with this slimy stuff.. 2.What is this slimy stuff? some rubber washer inside pump has dissolved in petrol and blocked the whole circuitry? 3. I tried to open the pump to see whats going on inside, it was so tough I was afraid I would break carb bowl, so I quit...Is it openable and repairable? Thanks guys..

Swap the wires from switch end or from the connector socket in between...it aint a big issue mate... You may use the wiring diagram, focused onto color codes, in the service manual...

I should check all u've suggested tomorrow. Yes crank speed was ok... Will check the inside of the carb later. How can I check if fuel tank breather is ok? Should I rinse the lid with a carb cleaner? or WD 40?

Really?? Buddy I cleaned the whole carb with ABRO carb and choke cleaner....right after cleaning even this stayed same... Please highlight the areas I should look into..thanks

Dont get confused with my other thread regarding the old bike. This is about the one I bought lately and riding at present. Today I stopped at a shop and when starting the motor jst cranked twice without starting...then I cranked again while squeezing clutch and accelerator then the bike sluggishly started reving and as I accelerate slowly started ...... Next after one km I stopped and restarted to see if the prob was ok, then it was gone... I have been using same plugs for almost a year now...could this symptom mean bad plugs? I didnt check them yet.... Thanks in advance!

Hi Guys, My XV125 requires me to choke when starting...this is not a necessity with my other xv125, and was not the case with the subject xv125 earlier.. Once started, I can rev only at high RPM, At low RPM engine gets low and low till it stops.. But when engine goes to stop if I pull the choke it revs up again... There's no air leak at carb joint, am sure about it... As everybody suggested I set Idle screw , doesnt seem to alter the situation.. Am wondering someone , may be at the garaj, someone has toyed with the mixture screw? The reason why I think so is, when engine goes to die at idle irrespective of my acceleration if I pull choke engine revs again, I can rev engine with choke jst like I would with accelerator... Please read carefully and help me solve this...sounds like carb is bad..? Thank u all!

Hi Guys..after refitting the manifold with spacer holes matched to the size that of manifold she's starting ok both at PRI and ON...I tested it after 5 days of fitting today and started fine...thank you all for the support..

yep I did....what makes her doesnt start on and off...?

After leaving some time at PRI, upon pulling choke she started, then I set the idle screw somewhat higher, she was starting ok, then I left her for few hours and tried to start now...its night now and the temperature is low...she doesnt start now

Hi Guys...I increased the hole size to match that of the manifold...fitted everything and set petcock to PRI and cranked..pulled the choke also but didnt start....

Yes it is a reconditioned, better than the earlier one...one which came fitted had the "gap" issue and the forceful fitting had splitted the carb joint, yet it worked still..

Hm...I cannot exactly say it was a non-standard. It didnt fit well so I placed some spacers plus liquid gasket so there is no leak of vacuum for sure..but I have doubt that there is a hole issue..must fix it first..

Anyone pls?

Nope, bike is not reliable even after positioning idle screw at different turns. Yes at the maximum turn-in it revs high and seems dangerous even shifting gears doesnt happen well.. I turned it low but the issue is this... It doesnt start right away when cranking. Choking and pressing start button starts. Whats the reason? Am afraid to take her for long rides as I dont wanna struggle with it starting, bump start requires someone else's push. Normal self push wouldnt do. I have some doubt. let me explain with an image.. As above I told you I put some gasket like thing to fill the gap between two engine head inlets and carb joint. I feel like, I may have for sure, I havent cut the hole on the gasket to match that of the carb joint bore...there is a hole considerably big but I feel like its not enough so that I have this starting issue at any idle screw setting? Should I remove the carb joint again and match the gasket hole to that of manifold? I feel something like this happening, small hole is blocking gas flow into bore...it doesnt go easily through it but requires some extra force like heavy pushing... When playing with idle screw, I'm sure I may have tried all the turn positions so far, earlier there was an another carb joint which didnt need gasket...and there was no need to choke.... It doesnt start without choke easily, but easily starts with pushing by someone. With choke it starts. But there are such points it does not start even with choke... Sorry for being lengthy...

I left bike for some time with idle screw turned all the way in and started now. Yes it started. Does that mean the problem is over?

Hey thanks dt502001.. I appreciate the info. I turned the idle screw all the way in. cranked and cranked it still wont start. At the same position, I tried to bump start, but it is not easy like the earlier times. Yesterday also when it stopped, I had to ask someone to push. Earlier I didnt need anyone for bump starting, even without a slopy land with a very slight push with my legs she started. When I try to bump start, depending on the force I'm applying, bike tries to start. But it doesnt hold on. Does this indicate that slider doesnt work and fuel isnt drawn in, probably there's a vacuum leak in crank case? but there are no any oil leak even... :/ The small needle, through which a fine spray of gas goes over the slider and throttle chamber and is operated by the pump located externally on carb itself, has some leak, fuel dripping out slightly...does that mean the pump not doing its job correctly? Could that be the issue? Pulled up choke while cranking, no luck still!

My choke was not on the left handle. It was broken by early user and he had shortened it and placed on a long nut between frame and left air cleaner. I tried choke but the cable broke. In Sri Lanka however temperature has no big variation, so carb issues due to temperature, I havent heard! Carbs working without heaters even. These days however, night temperature is low and day is very hot. I didnt measure RPM for I have no means to, However, I rode bike around 40-50kmph. Pick up ok! Could you tell me how to adjust / set idle? Is that the big bolt u could even adjust with your fingers or the small one shown in the images below? I think I have set the big bolt to a point where engine runs very sluggishly, almost going to stop and catches up again level...sometimes it stops.. So are u telling me that the slider has nothing to do with this...??? Even if slider does not move, the bike still starts? What about the other screw in pic above? Could u explain what really the slider does and how idle screw/RPM set up cuts off fuel supply and does not start the beast? Sorry for all the questions, am just curious, must understand how carb works buddy

Hi...I rode the bike and during the day it ran ok. But at night when temperature went down, the bike cranks but wont start. I know its the slider that is not moving well to deliver fuel. But when I bump start bike starts. When running even I feel like gas is cut off ( slider wont move ) but gets ok fast. membrane is not torn. When I blow some air the slider moves. What makes it stuck, I cleaned everything with ABRO carb cleaner. No glue there....Once bump started u can crank-start for several times. Like the slider lubricates and works for some time. But it wont work after some time... Are there carb repair kits? not on ebay..