motobrox

Thansk Tony, the bowls are on the correct side and choke pipe is connected

G'day chaps. I've just finished (well almost) a concourse rebuild on my RD350LC. Normally I don't have any issues with 2 stroke rebuild, they've all started and ran fine, this is a different story. When I first got it built up it ran fine above the pilot rev area, but only on choke. When you killed the choke the revs dropped and the engine eventually died. Suspecting the pilots were block I cleaned them out (can see through them fine now, all other jets blown through with compressed air), but now the engine won't start at all. Good spark present, checked the timing again, replaced the floats with a spare pair from a running bike. Any thoughts?

Can't imagine there's much, if any difference. They're not heavily invested bikes

Pilot jets are probably blocked stopping it idleing. Take them off and clean them with carb cleaner, it's not a difficult job

Pleased to hear it

Try searching the scooter forums

Try any UPVC window restorer on the plastics

If it aint got numbers it aint going back on the road mate

Sorry I don't know the bike in any detail. But if it is a gearbox vent and it's pushing out oil, the crank seal on the clutch side may have started to leak. It will do it when stoipped as the oil makes it's way slowly down the pipe.

The relay is just a electromagnetic switch so it's unlikely it will drop voltage. But if it's a three prong relay just test it as they show the car ones, the principle is exactly the same. You should hear the relay click as it bridges the circuit and there shouldn't be any voltage drop

It's probably full of crud which has stopped the piston moving. Use an air compressor to blow out the piston (keep fingers out the way and point it at a dampner, as when it blows it flys) The piston seals should really be replaced, but if it's on a budget get them out and clean them, replace them and grease them with caliper grease (next to nothing on ebay)

You've got it, any component on the bike is intended to use up the voltage when in use. The flasher unit is a relay, look up testing a relay on youtube it's easy.

http://www.yamaha-chappy.com/forum/

Cool, same colour as mine. Go on to www.cmsnl.com and they have a model codes for most Chappys (first 3 digits) or give the frame number to a Yam dealer and they will tell you it's age and model. Try French Ebay for the cylinder, most French Chappys were LB50s. If it's a Polini kit then it started life as a LB50. They models all varied slightly some were manual, most were auto or semi auto and some had pedals also (lb50 as it was classed as a moped, but again the models varied to suit the law of the country they were sold in)

It should bump start ok with a dead battery? Your battery is probably the root problem, but it could also be the likes of the recifier that's at fault. Once you get it started get a meter on to the rectifier to ensure you've got charge going back into the battery.

www.cmsnl.com have a list of Yam paint codes, but you need to identify the green

The carb floods when the floats dont close the needle valve (the bit like a tiny brass pencil under the float adjuster tab). Then needs to 100% clean, moving and sealing to shut the fuel off as the floats rise. The fuel in the exhaust is part of the flood problem.

Try the French Chappy forums, lots of good info and some of the guys speak English

The 72cc cylinder is a gen Yam part from the LB80. A lot of people did this conversion through their Yam dealer. Do the engine and frame numbers match?

Look on the French Chappy forums (some guys speak English), there is a mod you can do to the std exhaust to save money and gain speed