bookem

The coil was a re production by an ebay company. Just a bad one I guess. I have run across a new wrinkle though. This should test the 2 stroke gurus. The motor starts on 1 kick and run great with out the expansion pipe hooked up. As soon as I bolt the exhaust to the cylinder it wont start for anything. All I'm hooking up is the pipe that runs from the cylinder. I'm not connecting anything after the expansion chamber so it is not a plugged spark arrester. I've blowen air through the pipe and there doesn't seem to be any blockages. Really curious as to what is causing this.

The brand new bloody coil was bad. I decided to swap in a running DT125 and when I did she didn't run anymore. The only thing different was the coil so I swapped it out. Started on second kick. Swapped the DT175 back in with the coil from the DT125 and same thing started on second kick. First time I've had a brand new coil be bad. Really threw me off by giving such a good spark when holding plug against head.

Took awhile to get parts but I have the motor back together with new rings and head gasket. Have checked timing as best as possible. Don't have a dial indicator that clymer wanted but found tdc with a small screwdriver and then checked points. they are opening just before tdc. I installed carb, added gas and spun flywheel with drill. It sucked in the gas/oil and blew it out the spark plug hole. Installed a good plug but no go. not even a little puff. Compression teastor is loaned out but seems harder to kick and does pop my thumb off the spark plug hole. At this point I'm thinkin maybe condensor bad or maybe 6 month old fuel no good. Any odd things you guys have run into would be great. Thanks.

the carb I put on was brand new. I tried it on another bike aftre and it ran good. I wondered the same thing at the time which is why I tried it on the other bike. Tried the oil thing too and and when it dripped out the exhaust port I knew I had a problem Got some new rings on the way and will be honing the cylinder as well. The bore seemed round and no lip or taper so I hope this will fix it. Next week we should know if that is what it needed.

Ok good to know stuff like this. The 1/4 inch gap on the rings I mentioned is the installed gap. I put the rings in the cylinder and used my fingers to push them down to the working area as suggested in Clymers manual. I checked the bore with my fingers and found it smooth with no lip whatsoever. The underside of the piston showed brownish black though. I have read that is a sign of bad rings. Without a gauge I can't tell if the cylinder is perfect but it feels good and when I pulled the jug the piston seemed to be centered in the bore with no obvious out of round spots. Any more help will be appreciated and I'll keep you posted when parts arrrive, could be couple of weeks.

Pulled it apart. The rings both have about a 1/4 inch gap so I think that may be the big problem. The con rod seems to have side play on the crank but no end play. I think I'll try new rings for now and see how it goes. They're cheap and if it isn't enough I think I'll get another motor. The bike isn't gonna get hard use and will only see pavement with a light hand. Hope the rings do it, with that much gap on the rings I can see where the compression was going

This has been very informative stuff. I never had 2 strokes to play with growing up and spent most of my time with 4 stroke. The 2 stroke seems like the greatest invention ever. 125 cc pulls my big butt around just great and I think the 175 will be perfect for my trike. 175 4 stroke would be way under powered for this. Once I get these 3 I've got working top notch I think I may try one of the Kawasaki 750's.

Having never torn a 2stroke apart I've got a question regarding the piston. When the reed valve is removed and you look down the intake port, how far should the piston descend past the port. Right now it appears that the piston doesn't go below the intake port at all. This would explain why I don't seem to be getting any fuel to the cylinder. I'm not sure how it could be possible for the piston to not descend far enough but it seems to be the case. If someone has a pic of the intake manifold with the piston fully descended that would be appreciated.

I think I'll run premix and the oil pump as well. If the level goes down in the oil tank then I'll stop with the premix. Even with synthetic it should smoke like an early 70's farm beater lol

Well this trike is being built for my son who graduates this year. He has his car license but has Autism as well. I'm building this as a slightly beef moped idea. It'll get him around on the back roads but wont be a highway machine. You can see what I've done so far by following this link My link

Got a question about the oil pump on a '78 DT175. If the oil tank were located lower than the pump will it suck the oil up or is it strickly a push pump? I'm building a street trike andwish to install an oil tank farther back and lower under the solo seat I've built. the tank top would be about even with the inlet to the pump as far as height goes so it would need to pump up a 6-8 inch incline max. Thanks for your time guys My link

does anybody know if a XV1100 engine will fit in a XV750 frame. I have a '82 virago 750 that is gettin worn bad on the top end. Uses oil pretty heavy. Thinkin if I have to change top end it would be good to go bigger too. Thanks guys

Hi guys, u can see my introduction in the Noob section. I've got a problem I hope some of you can help me out with. I know I'm gonna have to take it apart to find out for sure but always helps to see if anyone else has had the same problem. Basically 1st gear doesn't work. When I shift into 1st it seems to catch abit and makes some click/clunk noises but doesn't move. It works great in all 5 top gears but no go in 1st. She's got lots of power to pull my 250 lb butt from a standing stop and up and down the road faster than I want to go Any ideas that don't involve splitting the cases. I'm hopeing maybe just a spring or the shift cam problem. Any help will be appreciated. Second problem I think is the carb but not sure. Starts easy enough with choke on and runs well. Runs good with choke off until throttle is release completely as in coming to a stop sign or coasting then dies. Always needs choke back on to restart and if u pull the choke on after releasing throttle it will keep running. I've cleaned carb a couple of times but will do it again. If anybody here has had this same problem and knows exactly what is wrong feel free to comment on that as well Thanks for the help Dan "Bookem" Taylor

"bookem dano " from the 70's detective show. There were about 5 duys named Dan where I grew up so after Dan Danny Danny-boy and Danno I got Bookem

Greetings to one and all. If I may introduce myself, my name is Dan but everyone calls me Bookem. I live in Sakatchewan Canada and own several bikes, NO HARLEYS. I try to build1 or 2 customs each year and have recently strayed into 2 strokes for my chopper needs. Ièm willing to offer any help I can and will also be asking a few questions of my own. I posted a question a couple of days ago in the dirtbike section. All of my builds are posted on youtube under bookem5 . I hope to be able to help some as well as recieve help from others. Thanks for your time Dan Bookem Taylor

I've got an old 1978 Dt frame, at least it had a 1978 DT 175 motor in it. I'm building a street legal trike out of it, I know I'm a little strange. I have a 1978 IT 250 that I can have if I go get it. My question is will the IT motor fit in the DT frame or will there be issues? I'm sure somebody out there has worked on these different types and can answer this questio in their sleep. Thanks for the help guys. Dan "Bookem" Taylor