Alan m
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Posts posted by Alan m
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starter clutch is behind the flywheel the chain from the started should run down to it a good tip wpould be to disconnect the chain from the starter and turn it over and see if there is any grinding from the starter bearings but to be honest a 73 motor will prob not have had the clutch bearing done in a while if at all if you don't feel comfortable doing it get a mate with the know how to do it and show you the ropes do it once and do it right do it twice and waste your night sounds taccy i know but when you do it right you will fell better for it
Thank you for your help! I just want to make sure I am understanding you correctly, are you talking about the bearing that is on the starter motor itself, or the starter clutch that sits behind the flywheel?
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sounds like the starter motor clutch bearing is worn
its a one way bearing when you engage the starter it turns the bearing which spins out and turns the motor over when the engine fires it disengages havin the same trouble with my ride trouble is its a 300 euro fix for mine
73 tx should be fairly cheap enough to sort seems to a common prob on the tx
I tried to find a previous post about this issue, but didnt find anything completely similar. I getting my '73 TX500 back to riding condition and tried to start it with the electric start. When I push the button, it sounds like it is engaging, then after a second or so, I hear horrible clanking coming from th left side of the bike. It sounds like a loose chain clanking around inside th cover. I took off the left cover thinking it may be the starter chain (the chain that engages the flywheel and starter motor) and I noticed when I looked at it, it looked to be a little droopy between the chain guide and the starter motor. But when I look at pictures of other guys similar bikes, they also have some droop. I dont want to purchase a new one if it is not that, but I cant think of what else it may be.
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ah ya see if that were true irishman we would just kick the door down or go in the womens bogs
A now,,,,,,,,,,,,I thaught everyone new that da Irish learned ta dance one day while messin round in da Shed,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,something went wrong on a fella when fixin up his bike.
He started kickin da tools and spanners round da floor,,,wavin an throwin the greesy rag he had in his hand,,,,,,,,,,,,when his tantrem finaly passed an he was worn out, he sat down
Taught ta himself,,,,,,now dat wasnt much help, was it,,,,,,,,,,,,with dat he taught,,,,,but twas good crack
So up he stood,,,,,,,,caught da handle-bars of da dismandled bike an danced round da floor.
Dats what happend me anyway
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full weeks work done on the bike and its running sweet
days work done and it went fine no prob job sorted touch wood
looking fior a right hand side panel if you know of one lying around any other tips for the tenere appreciated
would like to go for the later twin headlight set up dont know if it will fit ?
cheers for the info any way
it would be good to get a list of compatable parts if you know any
fazer 600 generator coil fits for a start you will need the xtz pick up
honda cb 500 reg/rec aswell red to red earth to green
there are 2 red and two green on the cb 500 any one will do as they are in the same block
three other colors to white from the loom
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days work done and it went fine no prob job sorted touch wood
looking fior a right hand side panel if you know of one lying around any other tips for the tenere appreciated
would like to go for the later twin headlight set up dont know if it will fit ?
cheers for the info any way
it would be good to get a list of compatable parts if you know any
fazer 600 generator coil fits for a start you will need the xtz pick up
honda cb 500 reg/rec aswell red to red earth to green
there are 2 red and two green on the cb 500 any one will do as they are in the same block
three other colors to white from the loom
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well its all back together and sounds sweeet a lot quieter than before replaced the generator coil aswell while i weas at it used one from a fazer 600
but the pick up would not fire so swapped it for the original pickup gonna take it out tomorrow for work a days dispatching will give it a proper test
rick the parts were all new superceded parts the pic shows the difference in the color between the new and the old
left are the new ones
Glad you're making progress mate
40 euros sounds alot cheaper than an engine.
You have one dot (punch mark) on the balance shaft gear & two on the crank gear, as long as you haven't taken the crank gear apart, they will still be inline. Just make sure all three dots point toward each other when you reassemble, pic on page 4-75 in ya manual.
Let us know if the inner plate washer has been updated, there are a few more interested parties.
Rick
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if the head was blowing you would hear a slight whistling sound as you try to kick it over ,
if you lift the head look at the gasket and the gasket face of the head a leak will show as a darker color on the metal and on the gasket
Aahh so it has had a new barrel fitted, well that should be good...must have cost a fortune.
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if the carb is overflowing it is prob the float needle is either worn or there is dirt stopping it from closing ,make sure its clear and check for signs of wear on the rubber tip of the needle when puttin it back make sure the float is closing properly
A good trick is to leave the bowl off the carb connect it to a fuel source[ hold it level as it would be in the bike] hold the float closed and turn on the fuel for a second just enough to let juice through, if it flows through with the float closed you have a needle problem if not let you float free and close it again with fuel running through and see if it stops again if it still stops well you have another problem
be careful no sparks etc
the only way in to a carb is through the float chamber so this has to be were to start looking from probs
hope this helps
Hi all i purchased a dt175 last saturday 3/4 of the way home it gradually died , i got it to my fathers house were we replaced the spark plug all fine with that , the next thing was the carb as the spark plug wasnt getting wet , so this weekend we stripped the carb which seemed clean we proceded to put back the carb and try starting as normal , at which point we noticed once the carb was full it was constantly overflowing ( had done this before) but writed it self . This time we noticed the spark plug was get fuel as it was wet a good sign, the problem is the fuel overflowing . I shall point out the electrics tyres and everything elese on the bike has been rebuilt the engine has a 1mm overbore and not fully run in yet. The floats were put in exactly how they were taken out just of note . We will take the carb off again and have another look not sure if we are on the right track , we tryed bumping the bike and also noticed it wants to go and there is a puff of blue smoke out the back ??? along with backfireing .
any help would be helpful
thanks in advance
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what are ya looking for im going out to them on fri to collect my parts i can check with them
part numbers would be handy i can get prices and have them for ya fri evening
Aye,,,Letterkenny is only an hour away from me.
The wee Island is where im from,,,,,but i live in Ballybofey.
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danfay down in sallynoggin when i said direct i meant i bought off them direct
shops will charge ya for the privilage dont ya know good lads out there which wee island you from any were near letter kenny good mate o mine hails from up there have his beemer in me garden doin a bit o work on it for him
Howya Alan,,
ya got a link to this Irish Yam distributor direct ?
Cheers if ya have sir !
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ordered the parts today its a first for rip off ireland but the parts came in at 43 euro including vat ,a hell of a lot cheaper than i thought they would be
their genuine yam parts aswell got them from the irish yam distributor direct
will have them in 48 hrs from holland . oem wanted to charge me 30 euro for a courier
can you enlighten me about the dots ? i figured the shafts will have to be lined up will have to read my manual
thanks for all the info
Nice pics mate.
I'll give you the part no.s from "oemmotorparts" again & as I said these are genuine yamaha parts but not yamaha part no.s. It might be cheaper to buy from a yamaha or parts dealer, in which case you need yamaha part no.s (look on their microfiche & point @ the parts you need). Then I'll explain why I used genuine yamaha, then a few tips.
Go to "oemmotorparts" click on "yamaha" then "xtz660" then any year, theses parts are all the same.
In the clutch section you need:
no.2 key YA00245281
no.3 tab washer YA00243821
no.18 tab washer YA00243839
In the crankshaft piston section you need:
no.15 plate washer YA00241764
2x no.16 washer YA00120022
no.26 key YA00245262
no.29 tab washer YA00243729
You also need a new gasket (cut new 1 or buy an after market kit).
New oil & filter (your old 1 is full of swarf)
When I got this problem I read lots of fixes on the 'net. Some, with experience in racing, say the only fix is to fit a solid balancer drive gear from "slipstream" I don't know when they last tried genuine yam replacement parts & I believe yamaha fitted a "cush drive" for a reason, probably vibration. I can't remember if they mention washer no.15 which on mine was the cause of the problem.
Before I stripped my engine I had come to the conclusion part no.16 was too soft, I ordered a new 1 to use as a template so I could get new 1's made out of a harder metal. When it arrived, me & a blacksmith friend compared original with new. The original washer is plain in colour, has rounded edges & if you hang it from string & tap it with a screwdriver, the ringing doesn't last long. The new washer is mottled in colour (indicating it's been heat treated) has less rounded edges (indicating it's been machined) & in the ring test, it rang alot longer (indicating it's harder metal).
We came to the conclusion yamaha have already addressed this problem.
Washer no.15 was the cause of my problem, the original was warped by the stamping process that formed it, causing high spots that rub into washer no.16. I don't know if yamaha have addressed this, I flattened my original 1 on emery cloth stuck to plate glass. When you get your new 1, make sure it's FLAT ON BOTH SIDES! (If you use emery cloth, rotate the washer now & then to keep the sides parralell & make sure the washer's still thick enough to hold the nut off the crank boss when everything is assembled)
To undo & tighten the clutch center nut, I put the bike in 1st & stood on the rear brake, I also put a screwdriver through the back disk, to lock the rear wheel (THIS METHOD IS LIKELY TO DAMAGE YOUR CHAIN, use an old one or buy a clutch tool, IT'S YOUR CHOICE!)
To lock the crank, stuff cloth or leather between the balancer gears (official yamaha manual method) & make sure all 3 dots are inline when you reassemble.
Before you attach the clutch basket, you might like to file down any notches in it.
It might take 2 or 3 attempts @ replacing the clutch cover to get the clutch arm in the right place.
Torque settings:
Crankshaft nut 85 lbsft
Balance shaft nut 43 lbsft
Clutch center nut 65 lbsft
Good luck
Rick
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stripped the clutch cover off today wood ruff key was split in two on the balance shaft and the washers were worn down
luckily the key ways are fine but new parts are a priority now
the plus side is its not the crank so no new motor needed i hope
see pics
completly split lucky it did not seize
badly worn away
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cheer the part nums would be great is it an engine split job or can i get to the prob easy enough ?
Alan
Found your problem whilst brousing google so thought I'd join group & answer your question.
Your head will bolt straight on to the mz bottom end.
Personaly I'd mend the hammering.
I had a similar problem on my '97 tenere, as have loads of people with szr660s & mz skorpions. The noise is caused by the balancer shaft drive gear becoming loose & banging against its' locating key, the key will eventualy shear & the balancer shaft will smash into your crank!
Take your water pump off & you'll see the drive gear on the crank. If there is any play in it, that's your problem. Note the tab washer will probably be in place & undamaged, wear occurs between the 2 inner most washers which has the same effect as losening the nut.
Yamaha appear to have solved the problem, the parts I bought had been made by a different process from the original ones.
Let me know if you want to mend yours & I'll send you the part no.s from "oemmotorparts.com" & tell you what to do.
Rick.
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cmon lads must be someone knows something?
the crank on my 1992 tenere ENGINE NUMBER 3YF 006~~ has decided it wants to make lot of hammering noise
i can get hold of a lump with a good crank from my local breakers but it came from the mz version of the tenere my top end is perfect so i want to transfer my good top end to the yam/mz bottom
he has gone over it and matched it up to a knackered lump from a 92 and reckons it look and fits but i need a nod from some one in the know before i hand over my cash
so over to any one who knows if it will fit with my good top end and all the gubblins hoses etc
any help appreciated
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the crank on my 1992 tenere ENGINE NUMBER 3YF 006~~ has decided it wants to make lot of hammering noise
i can get hold of a lump with a good crank from my local breakers but it came from the mz version of the tenere my top end is perfect so i want to transfer my good top end to the yam/mz bottom
he has gone over it and matched it up to a knackered lump from a 92 and reckons it look and fits but i need a nod from some one in the know before i hand over my cash
so over to any one who knows if it will fit with my good top end and all the gubblins hoses etc
any help appreciated
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ok first for some reason i cant post in the wanted section so if anyone wants to bump this feel free or if a mod wants to open the wanted section for me thats even better thanks in advance
looking for the protector piece purple if poss but if not no probs for the 92 xtz 660 3yf[ prt num 3yf-834w-10 ] and the plastic clock surround that goes over the protectors [prt num 3yf 2837m-oo]
once again thanks
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have 3 cdi's made up good one today got spark its not over heating which is plus not a great spark thgough i was reading another site and got a tip clear off all the anti vibe glue seemingly overtime it acts as a conductor so i cleaned it all up and lo and behold its sparking not great but its a start so the thinking is it might be a condenser some them became loose as i got rid of the glue so i might change one or 2 loose ones
time will tell ,
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first i have tried a search and all i get is this
One or all of your search keywords were below 3 characters or you searched for words which are not allowed, such as 'html', 'img', etc, please increase the length of these search keywords or choose different keywords.
so please don't tell me to search as its been already discused i cant as it keeps giving me the same answer
???????????????????
ok rant
over i have changed the re/rec tried 3 different cdi's there is power going to the coil as i have checked the red wire/striped wire every once in a while i will get a slight tickle if i touch the plug wire but nothing to stop my heart i cant keep or can afford to buy more cdi's
i have also checked the loom stripped it back and checked all wires and conections no probs or dodgy earths fused wire etc
the last cdi got hot at the 3 wire pin and the red battery wire got hot as did the rec/reg so i dumped that one for a later model one no more hot wires or reg but the cdi heated up ?
i have a spare pickup /gen coil could this be the problem shouild i change my one out and try it ?
so i am stuck and cant get a workshop manual for the xtz 660 tenere
is there any way of checking the cdi with multimeter can't find a manual with the proper reading so if any body knows were or how to do it please let me know again thanks be patient im new to the xtz range
thanks in advance for all your wonder full help and solutions
maz
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hi lads
im supposed to be picking up an xtz 660 1992 later on today
but before i commit is there any real probs
apart from the cdi is missing off the one i am getting its in good nick and was running its bin lying up fer a yr and the black box is in the wind
from the checking iv been doing the tdm will fit it but affects the bottom end ?
is the cdi a common problem ? seems to be a lot written about the cdi ?and are the 660 and 750s part common to each other i know my way around a bike but its my first tenere and im not arrogant enought to pretend i know it all so any help appreciated also if any one has a pulsar coil or knows were i can get good second hand or even a new set please post
local yamaha want 500 euro for a cdi?????
looks likethe buy is on hold for a week gives me a chance to check the marque out any feed back welcome
partsts cross ref
in Yamaha Workshop
Posted
i was fooling around a couple o weeks ago and found a site that gave parts listing that were common to different bikes ie clutch plates fro my xtz were the same as xt 600 blah blah and so on bear ing for this was same as this bike and gave a list of maybe 10 diffedrent bikes that used the same parts but cant find the site for love nor money any body and ideas would be very habndy to have a link on here for it as the russian on is a bit bogey