burton500
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Posts posted by burton500
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Cheers, will give it a try
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I’ve got a project bike and I need to remove the blind needle roller bearing inside the left hand crankcase. It’s the one the gearbox layshaft sits in. I don’t have a puller but has anyone managed to get the bearing out by any other means?
Cheers
Lee
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Hi
I restored a DT from a pile of junk to quite a looker, to the extent is was too good to take off road. Sort of defeated the object really, but anyway, have just sold it.
So first of all, thanks to Airhead amongst others for technical advice when asked for. Secondly I put it on ebay at £1250 buy it now, and it went in under 4 minutes, so although I've cleared a bit of profit which was never intended, it looks like prices are buoyant.
Cheers and au revoir
Lee
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Hi, need a bit of advice about the square junction box on the throttle cable. Where the oil pump cable and the carb cable meet, there is a white round plastic housing. Is that round housing supposed to be able to rotate?
My one gradually gets pulled in one direction, so that eventually the bike won’t tick over below 2500rpm, because the cable is being pulled tighter.
The Haynes manual doesn’t appear to help, so wonder if anyone here has had this happen.
Cheers
Lee
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Damnn yes Lee your bike will be running lean. if your aibox is the more modern one accessed from the left of the bike you need a 3U500 carb...and its not just the main jet!! also the needle and needle jet, pilot jet and the throttle slide cutaway are different. This is because the later air filter box is a less restrictive one as compared to the early version.
Hmm very odd. I do have the correct left hand air filter for my model. However, it looks like my bike has the early carb on it then, but with a main 160 jet fitted. I best double check what the other jets/needles/slide etc are!
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Just to confirm then, I have a 1981 DT175MX but the carb on it is a 2H501. Should I really have a 3U500?
If so it will go a long way to explain why I'm still trying to get the jetting sorted considering the 3U500 has a 160 MJ and the 2H501 has a 130MJ.
Cheers
Lee
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Nice one, many thanks
Lee
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Hi
Re: 1981 DT175MX - can anyone confirm the standard main jet size please?
Many thanks
Lee
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Hi
I've got a 1981 DT175MX. The carb on it, which I believe to be original, is model no 2H501. My Haynes manual has the spec for a 2h500, but not the 2H501.
What I'm trying to confirm is the correct main jet for this particular carb. The bike came with a 170 fitted, and I reckon that's too rich - the bike struggles to get through 6000, but once through 6000, it takes off. Depending on what you read, it seems 130 or 160 are possible std sizes.
Obviously once the main is sorted I can then fine tune the needle setting.
Anyone able to help?
Many thanks
Lee
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Hi
I've got a 1981 DT175MX. The carb on it, which I believe to be original, is model no 2H501. My Haynes manual has the spec for a 2h500, but not the 2H501.
What I'm trying to confirm is the correct main jet for this particular carb. The bike came with a 170 fitted, and I reckon that's too rich - the bike struggles to get through 6000, but once through 6000, it takes off. Depending on what you read, it seems 130 or 160 are possible std sizes.
Obviously once the main is sorted I can then fine tune the needle setting.
Anyone able to help?
Many thanks
Lee
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You can get the exact symptoms you describe when the main jet comes loose and falls out, whether it's clear or blocked! Happened to me years ago on another bike.
Lee
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... but i dont wanna let it go to someone thats gonna totally trash it and leave it in a ditch thankyou in advance
er no, wouldn't want anyone to ruin it.
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Hi
I use Motul 710 synthetic in my DT. I use the same oil in my RG500, so if it's good enough for that, it must be fine in the DT.
Smells good too!
Lee
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Anybody got some realistic soloutions, am i right in thinking that one busted spoke may well be the beginning of the end for the rest of em?
I had a spoke go on one occasion, so I just replaced that one spoke. Was never a problem thereafter. But as you say, the longer you leave it, the more chance that the others will start going.
Lee
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The brand new bloody coil was bad. I decided to swap in a running DT125 and when I did she didn't run anymore. The only thing different was the coil so I swapped it out. Started on second kick. Swapped the DT175 back in with the coil from the DT125 and same thing started on second kick. First time I've had a brand new coil be bad. Really threw me off by giving such a good spark when holding plug against head.
Was this a genuine Yamaha coil, or a pattern? Would be handy to know what to avoid.
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Got there in the end - thanks for the help OG. It turned out there was a partial break in the red live wire somewhere between the rectifier and the conector in the headlamp. Although the reading was 3v, as soon as a load was put on the circuit it went to nil. Anyway, I've run a new wire from the rectifier to the connector in the headlamp, and all is well.
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, make sure you have 6v arriving at the Red (socket)
Right then, 3 volts are going missing somewhere. There are only 3 volts arriving on the red wire in the headlamp shell. Weird. Would the rectifier cause this? Also, is there supposed to be an earth off the battery?
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Ok then, having completely refurbed the DT, got it mot'd, I'm now rediscovering my youth bouncing down the green lanes. Yumps, berms and streams, I'm still cocking them all up. However, something went wrong with the electrics yesterday, in that there aren't any.
Battery has a full charge, and the main fuse is fine. Engine starts no problem, but lights, horn, indicators and instrument lights are completely dead. All connectors were corrosion free following the rebuild. I guess something has come loose somewhere. Any suggestions on where to start? Any help gratefully accepted.
Lee
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Nothing and i mean nothing sounds or smells as sweet as a big smoker running old school expansion chambers though
I can vouch for that - I also run a RG500, and there is nothing quite like the sound of 4 spannies coming on song, and a blue haze out the back.
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Mornin' from Bulgaria.
Can anyone explain how this Boost Box works?
Thanks in advance.
Voila... - http://wikiscootia.wikidot.com/boost-bottle
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Hi all, i am putting the carb back to gether after having it cleaned and cannot find the float level needle or now remember if i took one out. I have looked in the parts book and it does not apear to have one. is this correct? Dt175mx 1978. Hopefully the manual will arive today and give me some help.
It does have a float valve - I reckon they include it as part of the float valve assembly - see http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-dt175h-1981_model8795/partslist/A-12.html
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Unless I'm being a dipstick, I would put the 650cc of oil in, run the engine for a few minutes, turn it off, leave for a few minutes, then check the level.
Lee
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Looks clean Burton " i noticed you"v the twinshock stye [ chrome] clocks on her ,
Yes, good spot. I've got the correct black clocks as well, but the chrome ones were in better condition.
Lee
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Did you sell it m8y?
Not listed it yet - but if anyone on here is interested, I'm open to offers!
Dt175mx clutch thrust washers
in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes
Posted
I’m assembling a clutch and have mixed up the two thrust washers. One is thinner than the other. Anyone knows which one is which? Cheers.